I have an cushman golf cart model 7010. My problen is as I am testing it, it starts to move as soon as I shift it into forward or revere. After that it work normally. any ideas on what would cause this? I plan on moving all components to a cart I am making. But need to solve this problem.
Problem with Cushman golf cart I want to use in go cart
- Thread starter danfred
- Start date
- Status
It could be many things. The idle on the engine could be too high, engaging the clutch prematurely or the clutch itself could need some maintenance. You could have the incorrect CVT belt (if it uses one).
All this is conjecture cos we don't know what engine you have etc. Post some pics of it as well as the clutch and we can help you out further
All this is conjecture cos we don't know what engine you have etc. Post some pics of it as well as the clutch and we can help you out further
either that's intended behaviour (very possible) or your throttle or contactor is leaking.
Or.. someone "repaired" the cart before and doing so messed up the harness.
In any case, you say it's moving.... so ripping it apart and transplanting it to a kart (yes, c for golf, k for go)
will at least show where the behaviour originated.
(modified harness, broken wire etc) or give you an easy access to the components in question (throttle, contactor, battery and controller terminals)
Personally I'd work my way down (i.e throttle, contactor, controller)
'sid
Or.. someone "repaired" the cart before and doing so messed up the harness.
In any case, you say it's moving.... so ripping it apart and transplanting it to a kart (yes, c for golf, k for go)
will at least show where the behaviour originated.
(modified harness, broken wire etc) or give you an easy access to the components in question (throttle, contactor, battery and controller terminals)
Personally I'd work my way down (i.e throttle, contactor, controller)
'sid
I cant get pictures to load from my phone, will keep on that. I agree it might have been rewired, but the controller, a bowl shaped item with 5 contacts in it, the mechanical part works fine. I assumed that the rest position would disconnect from the moter, but even if i isolate the contact, so there is no electric flow, it still moves. No idea how it can. If there is power to the controller it moves. will get pics up soon.
---------- Post added at 08:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:05 AM ----------
ok, so I cant get pics up on the site. it wants a web link not a file site.
---------- Post added at 08:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:05 AM ----------
ok, so I cant get pics up on the site. it wants a web link not a file site.
you must upload the file (click on attachments) then add the file there.
'sid
'sid
click on "Post Reply" or if you started with the "Quick Reply" Box, click on the "Go Advanced" button below...
in the full editor button bars find the paperclip.
(or scroll down to "manage attachments")
'sid
in the full editor button bars find the paperclip.
(or scroll down to "manage attachments")
'sid
Holy mother of creeping currents, I hear your knocking 
Wow, there is some cleaning and reinsulation needed at least.
personally.. I'd ripp that old mechanical control out and replace it with a more modern PWM controller,
just to be more gentle on the batteries and loose less power on the wiring.
Those 4 speed mechanical resistance controllers are reliable, that's very true.. even more reliable as any MosFet setup could ever be;
but honestly.. you always drain the battery at full rates with a setup like that.
To call it old tech would be an understatement.. that thing (electrically) is ANCIENT!
(looks like it's 1960s rather than 70ies)
And don't get me wrong.. new is not always better.. in fact quite often it's the other way around;
but this... I'd clean it, restore it and put in on a shelf for display (or on ebay for profit)
the motor would be powered by a more recent controller for sure
'sid
Wow, there is some cleaning and reinsulation needed at least.
personally.. I'd ripp that old mechanical control out and replace it with a more modern PWM controller,
just to be more gentle on the batteries and loose less power on the wiring.
Those 4 speed mechanical resistance controllers are reliable, that's very true.. even more reliable as any MosFet setup could ever be;
but honestly.. you always drain the battery at full rates with a setup like that.
To call it old tech would be an understatement.. that thing (electrically) is ANCIENT!
(looks like it's 1960s rather than 70ies)
And don't get me wrong.. new is not always better.. in fact quite often it's the other way around;
but this... I'd clean it, restore it and put in on a shelf for display (or on ebay for profit)
the motor would be powered by a more recent controller for sure
'sid
I have figured on that, I did not know that it pull full at idle. I have heard the motor will handle 48 volts, but need a new controller, is that true and do you have a recommendation on a controller? The model says 1970, but it might have been old tech then. thanks for your help.
machinist@large
Active member
When it comes to ID tag's, the model # is rarely the year of manufacture. Just an FYI. And 'Sid is one our go to guy's on this type of stuff: he'll do his best to steer you in the right direction.....
When it comes to ID tag's, the model # is rarely the year of manufacture. Just an FYI. And 'Sid is one our go to guy's on this type of stuff: he'll do his best to steer you in the right direction.....
OK, I had read on cushaman the first two numbers were, but that really does not matter, as I will not be ordering parts...
I am just thankful for all the help.
Please read the motor label and tell me what it says.. I can't read it on the pic you provided.
that way I'll be able (hopefully) to point you towards a matching controller.
No, you should NOT overvolt it!
Okay.. it will notburst into flames or fail the second you apply48Volts..
very true.. and if that's your concern, you can overvolt it
BUT..
as you can see it's a fully enclosed motor, thus the heat is not going to get out very quickly.
Overvolting increases it's internal resistance and it'll create more heat, maybe more heat than it's design to withstand.
And that means, it's more likely to burn the insulation off it's coil
(shortening the coil.. and that's the last time you used that motor)
Also.. overvolting does not nearly provide the additional power some folk tends to believe it would.
So you risk a working motor for maybe 10% more power.
frankly, that's BS!
The controller is very likely a 1964 model or at least "same tech"
But no matter when, it's for sure a resistor setup.
And resistors are in fact "consumers"
So you do not limit the power drained from the batteries, you just use some of it before it reaches the motor,
the single reason it should be replaced IMHO.
And I cannot find any 7010 model.. 731 732 yes... 7010 nope
here's a 732 wiring diagram
'sid
the cut off half is AS important I'm afraid
'sid
'sid
machinist@large
Active member
It's clear enough, but you cut off one end of the tag by not centering it in the photo.
Anyways..
for a controller personally I'd recommend a Kelly..
specifically this one:
KDS36100E,100A,24V-36V, Mini Brushed Controller
Price : $69.00 (reduced)
it has a continuos rating of 60 Amps (enough for the 53.something Amps the motor can draw)
and comes with every bit of protection you could want;
no regenerative breaking though, since that's a mess to do with series wound motors
(reads expensive!)
you'll need a new throttle pedal.. but it allows both Halleffect as well as Potentiometer throttles.. as long as the signal sends 0-5V you'll be good
'sid
for a controller personally I'd recommend a Kelly..
specifically this one:
KDS36100E,100A,24V-36V, Mini Brushed Controller
Price : $69.00 (reduced)
it has a continuos rating of 60 Amps (enough for the 53.something Amps the motor can draw)
and comes with every bit of protection you could want;
no regenerative breaking though, since that's a mess to do with series wound motors
(reads expensive!)
you'll need a new throttle pedal.. but it allows both Halleffect as well as Potentiometer throttles.. as long as the signal sends 0-5V you'll be good
'sid
Anyways..
for a controller personally I'd recommend a Kelly..
specifically this one:
KDS36100E,100A,24V-36V, Mini Brushed Controller
Price : $69.00 (reduced)
it has a continuos rating of 60 Amps (enough for the 53.something Amps the motor can draw)
and comes with every bit of protection you could want;
no regenerative breaking though, since that's a mess to do with series wound motors
(reads expensive!)
you'll need a new throttle pedal.. but it allows both Halleffect as well as Potentiometer throttles.. as long as the signal sends 0-5V you'll be good
'sid
Will there be a wiring diagram with controller? I plan on calling them today and ordering both. thanks again
- Status