Problem with after market driven pulley on trail master

[bob58o]

Ok so I guess it just coincidentally kicked the bucket on me huh. An I will get a tachometer today or tomorrow a let you now. A thanks man that I am. Still plenty to learn but love learning new stuff A with this it gets my boy outside turning wrenches with me good bonding

I’m not sure what you have installed and what is not.

26lb valve springs?
Aftermarket Flywheel?

 

[bob58o]

And just a heads up, overriding the governor allows the plastic mechanism inside the block to turn at higher RPMs than it was designed for. It breaks. It wrecks havoc.

Much better to remove it altogether than to keep it and override it.

The stock connecting rod is probably good as long as you have stock valve springs. Stock 10lb springs (or 12lb or whatever) only allow an engine with stock camshaft to turn about 5200 RPM. Stiffer springs allow higher RPMs. If a stock connecting rod “might be safe” at 5200 RPM, it becomes much less safe when engines start turning much faster than 5200 RPM.

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

I’m not sure what you have installed and what is not.

26lb valve springs?
Aftermarket Flywheel?

No didn't install only things it has is air filter exhaust flywheel an bypass governor

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

Up graded jet too. But hmph how urgent? They known to go quick like I need to take out now? Or got Lil time.

 

[bob58o]

I’m not sure how long it will last and I don’t know how many rpm’s the engine is turning.
If only turning 3800 rpm or so, it will last for ever. If turning 5400 RPM, it might let go at any time.

What exactly is the problem with the electrical system? Aftermarket flywheel doesnt work with charging coils. So not sure what coincidence you are talking about.

Aftermarket flywheel with 32 degrees before Top Dead Center ignition timing is hurting you with the heavy kart. You’d be better off around 24 degrees with the stock camshaft:

Stock flywheels have ignition timing built in and set to around 20-24 degrees before tip dead center. Most aftermarket flywheels are set to 32 degrees before top dead center. One is better for lower RPMs (what you need). One is better for 7000+ RPM race karts that keep it floored a whole race.

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

Ok this is all new to me knew nothing about degrees with it I actually used the stock key way didnt see the new one until after. You set the degree you talking about with that I'm guessing? This could be my issue. But I test drove last night an it ran great for about 5 10 min or so an when the engine warmed it started sputtering out. Googled an bad stator was the first thing to come up. It is old a dry rotted, insulation crumbled around the wire looks ruff.

 

[bob58o]

*ignition coil

 

[bob58o]

Stator would be the coils or windings behind the flywheel if the engine has a charging (or lighting) system.

Magnets spin on flywheel,
Charging coils stay stationary fixed to the block.
Stationary part of the charging system is the stator.

The ignition coil is what can go bad and cause spark issues when hot.

What is the ignition coil gap you are running?
ARC billet flywheels need like 0.045” I think.
If running the flywheel too close to the ignition coil, it might mess it up. The magnet is stronger and needs more coil gap.

 

[bob58o]

Yes you can set the ignition timing with the key. Most ARC billet flywheels are set to 32 degrees when using a straight key.

To make a 32 degree flywheel set to 24, you’d need to use an 8degree offset key backwards and I don’t recommend this.

Or using piston stop, degree wheel, and lapping compound. Need stuff to do this. Tools and YouTube vids.

or use stock flywheel until you upgrade camshaft and carb and valve springs and connecting rod .:0

 

[bob58o]

Jody / ARC Racing​

Site Supporter​

• Jan 22, 2014
• #7

All of our Billet flywheels require a minimum .030 coil gap. Most people run .040 to .060. The actual static timing is not affected by running more gap up to around .080-.090. Then you "might" loose 1 or so degree. You will have less magnet drag with more gap and some coil brands will retard a little more at high RPM. The coil gap is a fine tuning procedure than builders are using more and more, especially on stockers

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

This is the results of a bypassed governor. It's too easy to take out. It's not IF it explodes it's WHEN.

 

[bob58o]

I always hated trying to get the clip off the shaft when removing the governor from the inside.

I prefer the punch out the shaft from the outside method (once the flywheel has been removed). Then collect all washers and parts then seal it up with bolt.

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

Mannnn I put the other ignition coil of my other cart with I knew was good. An still shuddering, I tried. 030 .035. Same ****. Runs good the falls of shortly after. Seen red beard garage on you tube use .040 but my feeler gage only goes to .035. But he was using a billet fly wheel I have aluminum. Wtf!! Going crazy waking my neighbors up test running this thing lol. What ya think?

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

Ahhhh I didn't look at the video till now. I be damn I had no idea. I watched quite a few videos on the fly wheel an not once did I see anything mention of timing they just smacked the think on there. When using the key it kinda is what it is correct? In my unskilled mind seems crazy it came with a key if I need to do away with it and adjust the fly wheels timing.

 

[panchothedog]

By setting the flywheel with a stock key, you have the timing set ( fixed ) at whatever the flywheel manufacturer set it at, by virtue of where they set the magnet in relation to the key way cut in the flywheel. Stock fw's are usually 22 to 24 degrees btdc. ( before top dead center ) . After market fw's are usually 28 to 32 degrees btdc. ANY engine will run on any of those settings. Just make sure the key keeps the cut in the flywheel and the cut in the crank aligned and then torque it down. FWIW. Most feeler gages top out at .035", to set the gap at
.040" you place the .015" blade on top of the .025" blade and insert them together. I almost find it hard to believe you couldn't figure that one out. Then again ANY engine will run at .030" or .040". That's not your problem. From what you describe, it sounds like you are running out of gas.

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

I'm legally on the spectrum bud like not kidding.. I'm trying to learn. Obvious now that you say it but Ole boy had a single one an just didn't that stacking them would be accurate enough. But hmph maybe, like I say the air filter I got came with 3 jets marked with 85 90 and 95. 90 an 95 would hesitate/bog when I get down on it. 85 seemed to run great. But I have yet to buy a tachometer. My carb has a air mixture screw, "which I'm sure isn't set perfect I clearly don't know much an am a idiot. But was told to adjust till the rpm reach a peak, the adjust my idle back down. That sound right?

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

Makes me wonder why the fw doesn't come preset if they have a keyway precut knowing the timing will need to be advanced ya know?

 

[bullseye670]

Get a tach. One wire to wrap around your plug wire. Thats it. Ready to use. Has an internal battery. The Flywheel does come preset, but you can adjust that.

 

[bob58o]

 

[bob58o]

Flywheels ARE set to deliver a spark at a certain timing. This timing works for what the flywheel was intended for. A race kart that stays at 6500+ RPM the whole race.

You can tune the timing, meaning you can change to something different besides what comes preset with your flywheel.

Installing the flywheel with the straight key, means you are installing the part… but not tuning it for your specific application.