Predator 420cc on a Kandi Spyder 150gka-2 Question on Ratios

[KingCobra]

PER your 'other' questions...You will find some wires with snipped off ends that go to nothing because they were for other options not chosen for that buggy at the time it was ordered and or for extra lighting maybe.. I had the same thing on my cart and wrote them off as optional connections not needed. I took quite a few photos and I hope they help. Mine is all original and un-touched so that should help. Feel free to ask questions I may have overlooked in your message. Thanks, Scott

 

[gr8hairy1]

PER your 'other' questions...You will find some wires with snipped off ends...
...Feel free to ask questions I may have overlooked in your message. Thanks, Scott

Thank you so much! I think I got the electrical box more or less figured out now.

My main question is on the vacuum hose that runs from the petcock valve. On mine it runs from the bottom of the petcock valve to near the drive sprocket on the motor body. I haven't seen any gy6 setup like that.

The other thing I still can't figure out is the wires that are coming out of the motor on the side, just behind the drive sprocket. My only guess is it has something to do with reverse. No gy6 without reverse has those wires, but I can't find a clear picture online of that area on a gy6 that does have reverse.

Anyone who has this go kart, please feel free to join in.

 

[gr8hairy1]

Finally got the parts ordered! The good news and the bad.

The good news is 99% of everything should fit.

The bad news I couldn't find any keyed hubs for the rims. The bolt hole pattern on the rims is 3 3/4" with 5 1/4" diagonal. I could only find splined hubs for that size.

kevbo22 told me he had the same problem and bought some golf cart rims off Craigslist. I have yet to find any to fit the 4x4" hub from BMI (http://www.bmikarts.com/4-x-4-Billet-Aluminum-Wheel-Hub-1-Bore_p_1646.html)

So, I bought two 7" stainless steel discs off ebay that are 3/16" thick. I can drill holes to bolt them to the rims, and drill holes in the middle to bolt them to the hubs. I'm nervous about that part. I know I'll have to be very careful to keep them concentric to prevent any wobble.

Here's hoping UPS Ground is not too painfully slow. I have a friend visiting from Michigan until the 10th of January. My goal is to get it up and running before he leaves.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Go to Whitakers Golf Carts (3771 Knight Ave, Waycross, GA 31503). If they do ANY modifications to their existing inventory, odds are it is custom wheels, so they should have a surplus of steel wheels laying around, hopefully cheap.

 

[gr8hairy1]

Go to Whitakers Golf Carts (3771 Knight Ave, Waycross, GA 31503). If they do ANY modifications to their existing inventory, odds are it is custom wheels, so they should have a surplus of steel wheels laying around, hopefully cheap.

You are a genius my good man!

 

[gr8hairy1]

Go kart is still not together.

All the parts came in and everything fits..... like I thought it would, which is good...I guess.

Before I bought anything, I knew some fabricating would need to be done for the chain path at some point. Since the new sprocket is so much bigger, the top chain no longer cleanly goes through the opening in the frame (see pics). Unfortunately, I have yet to buy a welder. Any advice would be appreciated, on the chain path....and advice on a cheap welder for that matter. I know harbor freight has one for ~$100, but I don't want to be throwing my money away.

I've held off on buying some rims to for the hubs, because where a friend of mine works, they just got in a machine that can cut all the holes I need in the steel discs (as a side point I found there is a name for doing it like this, a drive plate adapter). He said there's a good chance he can get them to do it for free, but he has yet to confirm. Hopefully I'll know either way, soon.

Also, there's a pic of the rear brake disc and caliper. Because the axle diameter went down 1/4 in diameter compared to stock, the brake disc dropped down a little lower. Is it nothing to worry about or should I try to lower the caliper?

Lastly, the axle is so much longer than the stock axle. I'm excited! I look forward to testing out different rear tire widths to finally get a real world answer to how much rear axle width actually affects steering, on road and off.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

You could easily bend that axle, be careful.

 

[gr8hairy1]

You could easily bend that axle, be careful.

Very true. Undoubtedly, the axle will end up being shortened some. If you check out redbeardsgarage on YouTube he has a 670cc with 5 axle bearings and welded on A frame supports on each side to prevent the axle from bending.

I don't know how many I'll go with, but definitely more than I got now. I know that'll mean playing it safe until I get a welder, but I'm ok with that.

 

[gman3850]

with the axle i would try and keep it under 40" if possible On that big of a cart it may still bend thow. You can always look at getting a dana h12 in the future. They pop up on ebay everynow and again. they usualy come with 13.25:1 gearing but can be found in other ratios. It also uses 4/4 bolt pattern and has hydraulic brakes

 

[gr8hairy1]

with the axle i would try and keep it under 40" if possible On that big of a cart it may still bend thow. You can always look at getting a dana h12 in the future. They pop up on ebay everynow and again. they usualy come with 13.25:1 gearing but can be found in other ratios. It also uses 4/4 bolt pattern and has hydraulic brakes

That would be amazing. Maybe once I get a new rear end made....

 

[kevbo22]

Nice to see that you're still working on this. I'll be interested in reading about your axle width tests on this. I think on mine to get the rear and front lined up would require either a 54" or a 59" cant remember. But I'll be interested in reading your findings here.

 

[Karttekk]

The wiring coming out of the engine could possibly be from the magneto that plugs into a connector in the power box when the GY6 was still there. As far as vacuum hoses, there is one and sometimes two ports on the intake manifold, depending on if it's an EGR equipped model. The vacuum hose from the "one port" intake manifold goes to a tee or Y. From there one goes to the vacuum operated petcock that lets fuel flow from the tank and the other goes on a vacuum port on the right side of the carburetor. Check the attached image. Hope this helps.

Thanks

 

[gr8hairy1]

The wiring coming out of the engine could possibly be from the magneto that plugs into a connector in the power box when the GY6 was still there. As far .....
......attached image. Hope this helps.

Thanks

Thank you! That helps point me in the right direction. I'm trying to figure out the original gy6 motor to at least see if it still runs.

I still have some confusion the vacuum hoses. The ones around the intake manifold and carburator I think I understand. Mainly understanding the odd one that comes out of the top middle on the opposite end of the carburator. The guy I got it from said the gy6 motor was working with no issues when they took it out (so I'm guessing it's hooked up right?) That odd vacuum hose is connected to the middle-ish bottom of the pvc valve.

I attached a picture of my gy6 with some notes.

Also I found a listing on eBay for the stock motor for this kart https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/252557106339

It has some great pictures of the motor showing the mystery vacuum hose. Other gy6 motors that do not have reverse do not have that vacuum hose. I don't know if there's any connection with that detail.

Is yours hooked up that way?

 

[gr8hairy1]

Oh, and still waiting to hear back on the discs being cut. My friend has been working from home this past week doing some online training. He should be back at work this week and hopefully they will be done. I'm going crazy just staring at this 99% ready to be running go kart. Though, I have been able to save up money with as much time has gone by. I bought new tie rod ends and front shocks. The front passenger tire was bouncing like crazy (back when it was running). I'll update as they come in and get installed. The spindle bushings(?) on the driver side are bad. As in non existent on the top. Hopefully it'll be good until I can buy a replacement.

 

[gr8hairy1]

Yup, still waiting on the parts to be machined. To be fair, I still need to modify the frame to make room for the new angle of the chain. Though I imagine if I had the parts I'm waiting on, I'd have a lot more motivation to get it done ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.
If the parts aren't done soon, I'll just go pick up some rims. I've done about all the waiting I can do.

In the mean time, I have been getting ready to redo the electrical system. The wires from the gy6 were a mess and confusing. So I took out all the original wires and started learning.

It took awhile but I brushed up on volts/amps/watts and their relation to each other, plus that relation to wire gauges. I decided to do everything properly(overkill) and am going to have separate fused lines with switches running to relays. 5 separate fused lines with a total of 6 relays and a flasher to function both as a blinker and as a flasher for the running lights/turn signals. There will be a total of 10 lights (2 headlights, 2 led bar lights, running lights/turn signals, 2 brake lights). Plans for a winch at a later date.

Once the parts come in and I start making progress I'll post some pics.

 

[gr8hairy1]

So much wiring has been done! Everything but the switches to control the blinkers. Probably used about 80ft of 14 gauge wire. Plus wire used for controlling each of the 6 relays. I am so happy with how it is set up.

Hopefully soon I will have some pictures. It's been raining almost every day here in Southern Georgia.

A question on topic! There hasn't been one of those in awhile.

Is a 40 series enough?

I recently watched a video from RBG on YouTube and he said he thought their upgraded 420cc was too powerful for the 40 series.

https://youtu.be/Rh90eQHTND0

I know mine is stock right now, but does that mean a 40 series will limit future upgrades? Or with my kart being geared differently for off-road, would it not be an issue?

I don't want to spend $400 on a torque converter that could potentially need to be replaced.

I know a 780 series torque converter is more expensive than a 40 series. But a 40 series + a 780 series is way more expensive.

 

[Greasyxb9]

By the ratings no but I'm going to give it a shot as well. I'm building a manco quicksilver with a predator 420 and a 44c magnum. I'm also going to run the driven inboard which will definitely help alignment issues of the belt. I think go powersports cheaped out because outboard is obviously the the easier way to mount it like a TAV unit. There is a guy on here somewhere that was running a Vegas 460 and a 40 setup. I think his name was bubba and another guy named gman who is running the same setup. Both said there was premature belt wear.....

The 780 driven is no different then the 40 in terms of horse power rating as far as comet is concerned. I talked to Don from comet this past Friday and he recommended the 94c although the 780 still runs the 1 3/16" belt and he said to run a 790 780 or 770 driven. I don't understand that but what do I know. I have a 94c and its huge compared to the 40 or 44c clutch. My concern is its a lot of weight hanging on the crank.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Is Mary's Store still open?

 

[gr8hairy1]

.....I talked to Don from comet this past Friday and he recommended the 94c although the 780 still runs the 1 3/16" belt and he said to run a 790 780 or 770 driven. I don't understand that but what do I know. I have a 94c and its huge compared to the 40 or 44c clutch. My concern is its a lot of weight hanging on the crank.

Thank you for info. I'll definitely check the 94c out.

About how heavy is it? (guestimate)

---------- Post added at 03:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:19 PM ----------

Is Mary's Store still open?

Um.... I don't know what that means

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

There used to be a beer joint in Waycross (or nearby) called Mary's Store. Coldest beer on earth.