Predator 212 sputtering at full throttle / flooding issue

jonlasaga

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Hello everyone I have been working on a project for some time that is a predator 212 swapped yamaha yl2. The bike is a joy to ride but it has had lots of reliability issues over the 6 months ive been riding it. The first issue I encountered was with the engine completely stock. When I would start getting on the throttle it would perform normally up until about 3/4 throttle then it would start sputtering or die but sometimes it would successfully go full throttle. This wasnt the biggest deal but it was strange. Next I did a carb cleaning to make sure there wasnt anything in there that wasnt supposed to be and I put it back on it still did the same thing so I ignored the issue. Then another issue started happening where it would run well off choke for about 10 minutes then it would start but not take any throttle at all without dying unless I put the choke on which would cause it to run poorly. At this point I checked my spark becuause I had damaged the wire on install and the spark seemed very consistent and the plug was clean. I decided that it was most likely the carb so I bought a mikuni 22mm carb and put it on with a go power sports intake. Upon putting the new carb on it ran much better and I liked it alot but it still wouldnt take full throttle without dying. Once again I ignored that and took it for some test riding but after 30 minutes the engine completely flooded out and would not start. I then started with carb adjustment and tried all of the bottom half notches on the needle valve all getting the same result. I noticed that it would flood out either after a certain amount of time or it I pushed it to full throttle and then slowed down. After flooding out this time I checked the plug and it was very fouled. After each flooding I cleaned the plug but It would continue to flood no matter what carb setting I was on. My only thought now is that maybe because of the stuck clutch on the bike it is flooding because it is being spun while slowing down more than normal maybe? Does anyone else have experience with this issue or any ideas that I could try?
 

Brianator

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:welcome2: I just checked out your bike, I like it!

Good baseline settings for the carb should be:

-Throttle blade cracked open about 1mm when "closed"
- mixture screw 1-1/2 turns out from lightly seated
- needle in middle position (considering your issue it would seem like a good idea to lower the needle by raising the clip one notch from the middle)

There is a possibility the float level is set too high or the float itself has a hole in it, is "sunk" and not actually regulating the fuel therefore flooding the motor.

Other than that it may be time to rejet the carb to specific engine...
 

mckutzy

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Clutch should be oiled every 2 hr of use....

What is you gearing for the rear, also measure OD of rear tire, and do you have a jackshaft??
 

jonlasaga

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Clutch should be oiled every 2 hr of use....

What is you gearing for the rear, also measure OD of rear tire, and do you have a jackshaft??

I did oil the clutch every time I took it out and it ran alright for the first bit but I took it up a very steep hill one day and it got visibly warm and the friction material all started flopping around because the spring was ruined. Its definitely not the safest thing but it works for testing until I get the new clutch I ordered. If i remember correctly the tire on the rear is 17 inches with a 60 tooth sprocket and the clutch is a 10 tooth with no jackshaft. Honestly I think what did it in was running it at low rpm up that hill for an extended period because the stock carb wouldnt let me give it full throttle without dying on me.

:welcome2: I just checked out your bike, I like it!

Good baseline settings for the carb should be:

-Throttle blade cracked open about 1mm when "closed"
- mixture screw 1-1/2 turns out from lightly seated
- needle in middle position (considering your issue it would seem like a good idea to lower the needle by raising the clip one notch from the middle)

There is a possibility the float level is set too high or the float itself has a hole in it, is "sunk" and not actually regulating the fuel therefore flooding the motor.

Other than that it may be time to rejet the carb to specific engine...

Thanks for the tip. I have verified that the slide on the carb is very close to 1mm if not a little bit less when completely closed. Today I also adjusted the carb to the specs you suggested and it no longer wanted to start for me. I tried messing with all of the screws and the needle valve to see if I could get it to do anything at all but all it would do is backfire or afterfire seemingly randomly between pulls of nothing. The float itself seems to be fine but since I cant see what its doing in there I cant say for sure but I can verify that the float does float just fine in a bowl of gasoline. I noticed as I dialed the mixture screw out though it would start by not doing anything of note sound wise but as I got out toward 2 turns out from pulling it was making a puffing sound out the carb before backfiring or afterfiring. I tried pulling the plug every time it started backrfiring and spinning the engine over to clear the cylinder but then it would return to nothing for a bit then another backfire or afterfire. From what In read online that might mean that the jet is outside of what the engine needs to run since the mixture screw doesnt seem to do a whole lot but I cant tell for sure because I haven't been able to get it to start with those settings yet. Do you happen to know if my engine is trying to tell me something here that Im not getting? It seems to be that the engine is flooding but as I try to run it leaner it doesnt want to start for me.

edit: Forgot to mention that the settings it wants to run on are anything below middle of the needle valve more than 2 turns out on the mixture screw. Turn the mixture screw down on anything below the bottom of the needle and it also does not want to start. Turning it down on the bottom needle didnt stop it from flooding. Im ordering mikuni jets for the carb to see if one size up or 2 will help.
 
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