Predator 212 gov delete support mods

[Ls1Garage]

I wanna take the governor off my non Hemi predator 212 I plan on putting a different coil on it to limit the rpm I also want to upgrade the valve springs to eliminate valve float but not rev it high so I don’t explode the stock flywheel, I’ve tried looking for a good answer but I couldn’t find one. I know that the valves float between 5000-5400rpm I want some recommendations for a rev limiter around there and let me know about any opinions or recommendations you guys got!

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

What rpm are you targeting?
The end goal.


I use stock springs as my rev limiter at the 5500 or so.

 

[Ls1Garage]

I want something thats safe and reliable so I don’t blow up my flywheel and I plan to install stiffer valve springs anyways since there cheap enough.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Are you going to change the cam? Or just get stiffer springs.

 

[panchothedog]

If you don't change the flywheel ( and the rod ) just keep the stock valve springs in there. That 5400 to 5500 rpm range where they start to float is about as fast as the factory stock pieces will handle.

 

[Ls1Garage]

Are you going to change the cam? Or just get stiffer springs.

I plan to just do springs I’m not some kid trying to spin his motor to moon just trying to make it safe and reliable

 

[Ls1Garage]

If you don't change the flywheel ( and the rod ) just keep the stock valve springs in there. That 5400 to 5500 rpm range where they start to float is about as fast as the factory stock pieces will handle.

I still plan to do springs since there cheap enough, what rpm would you say my rev limiter should be? I’m going to be ordering one. Also I just wanted more options on the flywheel and rod because some people say it will blow up if you look at it wrong or some say 6,000 is borrowed time not that I’m going to rev it that high.

 

[Edwin Spangler]

I plan to just do springs I’m not some kid trying to spin his motor to moon just trying to make it safe and reliable

These are contradictory statements. Safe and reliable would be NOT changing the springs.

Dont change the springs until you change the flywheel and rod. Youre just asking for a chunk of cast iron in your thigh or back.

 

[landuse]

These are contradictory statements. Safe and reliable would be NOT changing the springs.

Dont change the springs until you change the flywheel and rod. Youre just asking for a chunk of cast iron in your thigh or back.

Definitely this!!

 

[Sparkwizard]

Is it not safe and reliable, now?
I like to leave the governor connected and working. I often replace the long spring between the throttle arm and the governor arm. I can run about 45oo RPM safely like that. Costs about 3 bucks.

 

[Hellion]

I like to leave the governor connected and working…

You’re my hero! Do you use a generic/upgrade/aftermarket/hardware store spring or what?

FYI to the newbs: Tension on the governor spring assembly is what allows the higher RPMs. The governor is not a rev limiter, it is a rev maintainer.

 

[Sparkwizard]

Sometimes I just double the stock springs, but not in the farthest hole in the governor arm. Maybe both in the middle hole and adjust from there.
Lowe's and Tractor Supply have good selections of springs. You'll want one slightly stiffer, or harder to stretch than the original. Length is not important because that can be adjusted with wire. Just be careful the first time you start it. You want to be sure it will return to idle. DO NOT bend the stock spring to make it shorter. It will not return to idle reliably.