Hybrid
New member
Wow thanks guys, it makes me feel better dropping some money into them to make them nice!
Our First Two Carts
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Hybrid
New member
Question, what is the proper way to clean the clutch? I threw my new belt on today and after riding for a few minutes the belt started sticking to the clutch. when I stopped, my motor just shut off from not being able to spin freely and when I started it back up, I almost lost the cart down the street! It was actually pretty humorous at the end of a 50 foot chase
Where the belt meets the clutch, the clutch is not surface clean or smooth, it is all bumpy which I think may be from burnt rubber from previous belts? What is the best way to get this off? Also do I clean the inside of the clutch?
Thanks!
Where the belt meets the clutch, the clutch is not surface clean or smooth, it is all bumpy which I think may be from burnt rubber from previous belts? What is the best way to get this off? Also do I clean the inside of the clutch?
Thanks!
Blazkowiez
Kart Aficionado
I am writing this because I don't know if this forums has a step by step on this or not...
1. The beginning - Remove drive clutch from engine, the bolt will be on the output shaft of the motor, you'll need an impact wrench or a box end wrench and another to tap the box end using blunt force to remove the bolt. Once you have the bolt out it should come right off the shaft easily aside from any rust that keeps it on the shaft. Grease the shaft slightly with no clutch on there to make removal easier in the future.
2. Disassembly - Place the clutch assembly on a work bench or table and remove the outer cover, keep notice that the hub in the assembly has the flat side down and the molded side up which will fit exactly in the cover. Remove the hub, set it aside. Remove the bronze bushing off the backplate and set that to the side. Remove the spring pack assembly if you have not checked it recently for wear, if this is hard to remove try wedging a flat blade screwdriver for ease.
3. Analysis - See if the clutch is in good shape, the main part of the drive clutch will have an aluminum spring pack assembly which has 2 springs which when removed should spring out straight when unhooked and both pins should be firmly inside the aluminum. If either of those are wrong you may need to replace something. Check the bronze bushing for a crack where it may have broken. In the main assembly and the hub, check side to side play, this should be a fairly firm fit, it should not have much room to wiggle left and right, a large amount of play will indicate the clutch is heavily worn from use and may need to be retired. As with most things, if you notice wobble in the clutches, this is sometime repairable but usually is the kiss of death.
4. Cleaning - The hub needs to be cleaned, the best tool for this is a wire wheel on a bench grinder, clean the hub of any material. Next take a wire brush and brush out the splines in the main assembly and make sure it is nice and free of debris, it may need a rat tail file the very first time you do this, we use a diamond bit chainsaw sharpener for fine cleaning. The sides of the clutches which the belt rides on need to be cleaned to where there is no rust or pitting, it needs to be smooth. Start with a wire wheel and if severely rusted you may move to a sand paper, we use a pneumatic 3M sanding wheel to clean these when in bad shape. When cleaning the hub and main assembly that hub should be able to drop clean through the assembly into the palm of your hand with no problems. If it does not do so, it is not clean enough.
5. Re-Assembly - Place the spring pack assembly back into the main portion of the drive clutch, this should be flat side down, angled side up. If you have trouble placing this back in the assembly you may need that flat blade screwdriver, we also take use of a 4x4 as wood will not damage the assembly if you need to smack it into place. Place the bronze bushing back onto the back plate, place the hub, ridged side up back into the main part of the assembly.
6. Lubrication - This is a dry assembly, no wet lubrication PERIOD. The only part that would need lubrication would be the inner side of the outer cover on the main assembly where the aluminum piece rides on it using centrifugal force. The lubrication in question suggested by Comet is their own brand of dry lube, which is a dry moly blend, I'm sure there are other fine companies out there that offer this, but it doesnt need lubrication often, its not that big of a deal, the main thing you need to focus on is cleaning the clutch. Any wet lubrication you do put in this will create a terrible snowball effect which will collect more dirt, dust, belt fiber, debris, etc. Bad idea to use wet lube.
7. Re-Installation - Put the clutch back on your kart, backplate first with the bronze bushing, then the main portion of the drive clutch beveled side first, outer plate away from the engine etc. Screw the bolt, lock washer, and flat washer back on the kart, if you have an impact wrench this is the time to use it, if not use a box end wrench and pull the recoil to lock up the washer and keep the bolt firmly in place.
The end - Comet did suggest you clean this every 5 hours of use, but if you ride in the sand or an excessively dirty area, I'd say you need to make this part of what you do following riding during the clean up and maintenance time you put into keeping your kart in good shape.
1. The beginning - Remove drive clutch from engine, the bolt will be on the output shaft of the motor, you'll need an impact wrench or a box end wrench and another to tap the box end using blunt force to remove the bolt. Once you have the bolt out it should come right off the shaft easily aside from any rust that keeps it on the shaft. Grease the shaft slightly with no clutch on there to make removal easier in the future.
2. Disassembly - Place the clutch assembly on a work bench or table and remove the outer cover, keep notice that the hub in the assembly has the flat side down and the molded side up which will fit exactly in the cover. Remove the hub, set it aside. Remove the bronze bushing off the backplate and set that to the side. Remove the spring pack assembly if you have not checked it recently for wear, if this is hard to remove try wedging a flat blade screwdriver for ease.
3. Analysis - See if the clutch is in good shape, the main part of the drive clutch will have an aluminum spring pack assembly which has 2 springs which when removed should spring out straight when unhooked and both pins should be firmly inside the aluminum. If either of those are wrong you may need to replace something. Check the bronze bushing for a crack where it may have broken. In the main assembly and the hub, check side to side play, this should be a fairly firm fit, it should not have much room to wiggle left and right, a large amount of play will indicate the clutch is heavily worn from use and may need to be retired. As with most things, if you notice wobble in the clutches, this is sometime repairable but usually is the kiss of death.
4. Cleaning - The hub needs to be cleaned, the best tool for this is a wire wheel on a bench grinder, clean the hub of any material. Next take a wire brush and brush out the splines in the main assembly and make sure it is nice and free of debris, it may need a rat tail file the very first time you do this, we use a diamond bit chainsaw sharpener for fine cleaning. The sides of the clutches which the belt rides on need to be cleaned to where there is no rust or pitting, it needs to be smooth. Start with a wire wheel and if severely rusted you may move to a sand paper, we use a pneumatic 3M sanding wheel to clean these when in bad shape. When cleaning the hub and main assembly that hub should be able to drop clean through the assembly into the palm of your hand with no problems. If it does not do so, it is not clean enough.
5. Re-Assembly - Place the spring pack assembly back into the main portion of the drive clutch, this should be flat side down, angled side up. If you have trouble placing this back in the assembly you may need that flat blade screwdriver, we also take use of a 4x4 as wood will not damage the assembly if you need to smack it into place. Place the bronze bushing back onto the back plate, place the hub, ridged side up back into the main part of the assembly.
6. Lubrication - This is a dry assembly, no wet lubrication PERIOD. The only part that would need lubrication would be the inner side of the outer cover on the main assembly where the aluminum piece rides on it using centrifugal force. The lubrication in question suggested by Comet is their own brand of dry lube, which is a dry moly blend, I'm sure there are other fine companies out there that offer this, but it doesnt need lubrication often, its not that big of a deal, the main thing you need to focus on is cleaning the clutch. Any wet lubrication you do put in this will create a terrible snowball effect which will collect more dirt, dust, belt fiber, debris, etc. Bad idea to use wet lube.
7. Re-Installation - Put the clutch back on your kart, backplate first with the bronze bushing, then the main portion of the drive clutch beveled side first, outer plate away from the engine etc. Screw the bolt, lock washer, and flat washer back on the kart, if you have an impact wrench this is the time to use it, if not use a box end wrench and pull the recoil to lock up the washer and keep the bolt firmly in place.
The end - Comet did suggest you clean this every 5 hours of use, but if you ride in the sand or an excessively dirty area, I'd say you need to make this part of what you do following riding during the clean up and maintenance time you put into keeping your kart in good shape.
That One Guy
Occational Annoyance
Jeez, I was just gonna say "shoot some WD-40 on that sucker".
Hybrid
New member
Wow, now that is an answer. Thank you so much.
and lol @ That One Guy, I probably would have done the same! The belt would never stick! (maybe not such a good thing though)
This will be my project on my lunch break tomorrow for sure!
and lol @ That One Guy, I probably would have done the same! The belt would never stick! (maybe not such a good thing though)
This will be my project on my lunch break tomorrow for sure!
Blazkowiez
Kart Aficionado
Good deal, I'm glad to see that helped someone.
Hybrid
New member
Cleaned the clutch today like you said and it works perfectly, only problem now is that I don't think I got the bolt tight enough because the clutch keep jamming open which either makes the engine sputter or stop, if i tap it lighty with a hammer, it releases from the outside plate and snaps back inside.
Should I put the bolt back on with the impact gun? Its a pretty powerful one and I don't want to strip the bolt =\ I got it as tight as i could with holding a socket wrench and pulling the pull cord to tighten it (because it just spins otherwise.
Should I put the bolt back on with the impact gun? Its a pretty powerful one and I don't want to strip the bolt =\ I got it as tight as i could with holding a socket wrench and pulling the pull cord to tighten it (because it just spins otherwise.
Blazkowiez
Kart Aficionado
As long as you have a lock washer it should stay on. Occasionally you might need a small washer in the drive assembly that is very thin, it should be narrow enough that it can slide in the assembly and not lock anything up. Those are fairly hard to find but sometimes are necessary if it won't disengage.
Kaptain Krunch
Pro Junk Collector
Are you sure you put it back together right?
Hybrid
New member
yeah I mean, you.. can't really put it back together wrong, its like the inside of the clutch that moves in and out wobbles and jams into the cover, then i have to kick it/tap it with a hammer free. Maybe I'll take it apart again and see whats going on.
Hybrid
New member
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200331211_200331211 Will this work for the Yerf-Dog if I get two of them? the ones on there now are a bit wider and are 15 inches high, will it be too much of a difference and/or be okay with two people on the cart?
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/8-346.html This looks like what is on there now.
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/8-346.html This looks like what is on there now.
Kaptain Krunch
Pro Junk Collector
Those are pretty crappy, only rated for 20mph, maybe if you replaced the bearings, but there expensive for what they are.
Blazkowiez
Kart Aficionado
Dude, what you have now is better, just get new TT tires if you need them. Your wheels if not bent, are Martin Wheel products already, they are very high quality.
Hybrid
New member
Well one is completely different, and I wan't them to match as close as I can. So I was thinking about getting new ones.
I have one good rim and one (okay) tire on one side. The other side is complete junk all the way around so I have to at least get one whole assembly. They are not rim and flange so that was the closest I could find to anything remotely useful and I would have to replace both, or.. guess what I just found
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200331412_200331412
thats perfect. Its the same as the other side! and cheaper than getting two.
Now I have to find a brake band and belt (now that I know which one)
I have one good rim and one (okay) tire on one side. The other side is complete junk all the way around so I have to at least get one whole assembly. They are not rim and flange so that was the closest I could find to anything remotely useful and I would have to replace both, or.. guess what I just found
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200331412_200331412
thats perfect. Its the same as the other side! and cheaper than getting two.
Now I have to find a brake band and belt (now that I know which one)
Blazkowiez
Kart Aficionado
Dont buy the brake bands from nothern, they dont work, are made of cheap metal which breaks and the pad material is really just rubber which simply smokes and smells terrible.
The wheel you just showed me has 3/4" low speed bearings. You dont need to get 2 tires man, just get one tire to match the other side, you might also want to stop shopping at northern for all of this.
PM me if you cant find all of this.
The wheel you just showed me has 3/4" low speed bearings. You dont need to get 2 tires man, just get one tire to match the other side, you might also want to stop shopping at northern for all of this.
PM me if you cant find all of this.
Hybrid
New member
Took the Carter into my friend's woods behind his house, I hit a few mud spots =]. It went through pretty well, you just can't stop, which i found out the hard way hahaha
dcook3333
Dean
A muddy kart does the soul good.
Hybrid
New member
Update timeee
I finally got all the parts I ordered in from BMI, got the motor running perfect, cut up and re-welded the frame to make it straight and found out the belt is too small
should have measured the center to center just to make sure!
Turns out that it has a 7 inch driven instead of a 6 inch (I think thats what you thought it had Blazkowiez). So I have to get the 203593 as per the guide? (the center to center is 7-3/4")
Thanks to 30% restocking fee and getting screwed on shipping, I believe 'fun' is an understatement.
I'll have pictures when I feel like taking them
Should have made sure....
I finally got all the parts I ordered in from BMI, got the motor running perfect, cut up and re-welded the frame to make it straight and found out the belt is too small
should have measured the center to center just to make sure!Turns out that it has a 7 inch driven instead of a 6 inch (I think thats what you thought it had Blazkowiez). So I have to get the 203593 as per the guide? (the center to center is 7-3/4")
Thanks to 30% restocking fee and getting screwed on shipping, I believe 'fun' is an understatement.
I'll have pictures when I feel like taking them
Should have made sure....
Blazkowiez
Kart Aficionado
Wait, are you talking about the Yerf-Dog? That kart does use a 203591 belt and will not be using a 203593. If you are speaking of the Carter, it will be using a 203581-203583 and can be adjusted to use either. I'm not sure sure what you might be measuring.
Have you already tried to return this and have you moved your motor at all? If your plate is broken on the yerf-dog this could equate for the changed distance, the black metal plate under your motor keeps the distance from ever changing unless someone has drilled new holes.
Have you already tried to return this and have you moved your motor at all? If your plate is broken on the yerf-dog this could equate for the changed distance, the black metal plate under your motor keeps the distance from ever changing unless someone has drilled new holes.
Hybrid
New member
Yes I'm talking about the Yerf-Dog. The belt is too small, and the motor is as close as it can be to the jackshaft, they are butted up against each other. As they stand right now, it has a 7" driven on the jackshaft and the center to center distance is 7-5/8" but I can move the motor forward a tiny bit if i get the belt for 7-3/4". I didn't send the belt back yet.
There are new holes drilled all over the place, whoever had this before definitely used it to the max. I'm positive that the motor can not be any closer to the jackshaft, so a bigger belt is for sure needed.
There are new holes drilled all over the place, whoever had this before definitely used it to the max. I'm positive that the motor can not be any closer to the jackshaft, so a bigger belt is for sure needed.
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