Not very DIY

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Flyinhillbilly

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Pulled the intake to take a look at whatever porting had been done, much to my surprise, there was none. I guess that explains why the eyebrows weren't shaved.if you look closely, you'll notice the intake gasket isn't lined up worth a flip either.
 

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Flyinhillbilly

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When I pulled the breather cover off I found dual valve springs and good retainers. Everything is salvageable with the exception of the piston and block. This shouldn't be too expensive of a project I hope, and it should run like a scalded dog on my minibike with a TAV ( going racing now, so low end just got way more important. I'm finally going to take 2slicknicks advice.)
 

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welder74

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I would get a billet rod for sure that stock rod will fail. Guaranteed.

---------- Post added at 06:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:38 AM ----------

ARC makes that rod for that engine
 

bob58o

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When I pulled the breather cover off I found dual valve springs and good retainers. Everything is salvageable with the exception of the piston and block. This shouldn't be too expensive of a project I hope, and it should run like a scalded dog on my minibike with a TAV ( going racing now, so low end just got way more important. I'm finally going to take 2slicknicks advice.)

What was Nick's advice?
 

Flyinhillbilly

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Decided to put the tillitson on the Honda, so I ordered an RK kit for it and started working on building the manifold.
 

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Hellion

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I'm not surprised that it wasn't ported/polished and eyebrow-shaved.

Minimal gains in those areas if I understand correctly and someone on here mentioned that the intake port is way too big on the flatty 5 so only the casting "flash" should be removed. The eyebrow shave is a win/loss proposition. It improves flow (just how well is anyone's guess) sure, but loses compression.

I imagine the modified head, bigger valves and piston more than made up for the defects in the ports and the intact eyebrow.

Did it run at all? I mean it was run with a scored cylinder up until it was parked. Would've been interesting to see/hear it run and what it was capable of in such "deplorable" condition.
 

Flyinhillbilly

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We got it to pop and fart a few times when I got it. I have zero history on the kart as I bought it from a pawn shop, so your guess is as good as mine. I'd say it had pretty well laid down based on how rough the cyl wall was. The pics didn't really do it justice.


On another note, I made a top plate and mounted the fuel pump from the minibike on it.
 

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chancer

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Thanks. That is a good solution, I have also heard of running a T back to the tank.

Here is a age new question.

Is there a performance advantage to running a fuel pump other than tank location?
Because in my personal Experience the pump was just not worth all the hassle.
I mean the engines look "cool" without the tank sitting on top looking like a paint sprayer or rototiller engine.
But all the hoses look kinda lame too.
 

Flyinhillbilly

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Elbow room was what I was after. I got tired of whacking the fuel tank. I didn't like the idea of running a tee back to the tank due to priming issues that could arise because the pump operates off of a one way valve. This just seemed like a simple way to do it. I also wanted to maintain a high rpm fuel flow capability. I'm currently turning it about 6400 according to my math, but I'm going to check it with the digitron tomorrow so I'll know for sure. As far as I know, the tillotson works well with a fuel pump, plus if and when I do send the rod through the crankcase, it'll hit a piece of sheetmetal rather than a tank full of fuel. It also moved the center of gravity down. To me it seems well worth it.



Definatley not flooding...
 

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