New toy to work on

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Kartorbust

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My parts came in today surprisingly. So have a steel rear sprocket, steel driver sprocket, Mikuni 26mm rebuild kit, clutch cover screw, and new 520 chain. Unfortunately I did not think to get a master link like an idiot, so I'll have to buy one. Still need oil for the engine and injector system, but I can start working on it here soon.
 

Ebrownie

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When you say injector system, you mean oil injection right? You don't need that, just premix the gas and oil. unless it already works, then you might as well use the oil injection.
 

Kartorbust

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Yeah meant oil injection. Got the new parts on, except the carb rebuild. I'll try to get a small bit of 24:1 made up and run the engine for a bit to make sure it's fine. But I want to change the oil in it first before doing that. I think it's missing something on the swing arm for the chain but I'm not sure yet. Maybe a nylon block guide or something, can't tell by pictures.

Not sure if I need a new clutch and brake handles, but the brass bushings in them are warn down and there's a lot of up/down slop in them. Using the pdf file service manual kind of sucks, just because it's 248 pages and you can't page through chapters easily. Would print the thing, but man lot of paper. May just buy one.

Did notice on the carb kit that it's labeled for 88-95 on it and nothing newer. Wonder if that matters or not. Did Mikuni 26mm change that much over a few years or is the kit the same despite model year differences?
 

Hellion

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Good sources for exploded view diagrams and such. Very useful for identifying what parts are there and which ones aren't, but should be. Have used Partzilla numerous times for buying OEM parts but not BikeBandit...

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/ATV/2000/BLASTER+-+YFS200M/parts.html
http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2000-yamaha-blaster-200-yfs200m/o/m145954

...I don't think you will like it for hunting and ice fishing. They have a power band much like a 2 stroke dirt bike real peaky. They go pretty good for 200cc but they don't weigh much. Trying to use it has work atv will not be good. They are geared all wrong for that. Those are play machines not work machines....

Hate to be a naysayer but this was my first thought too, in not so many words. Maybe you can make do as-is though (and go fast and noisy 24/7). :p

In any event.
 

Kartorbust

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Small update, finally got the chain and master link together, which was a total pain. Best approach putting a master link on is just spend $8.00 on a stupid chain press and call it good. Instead of doing this though, I used a Channel Locks/slip joint pliers, squeezed the two halves of the link together and got the clip on. Once that headache was dealt with, I drained the engine oil and put in new Yamalube 10w40 (10w30 also works, but this is what they had in stock. Also automotive works, but cannot have friction modifiers). Added 2S Yamalube to the oil injection tank and fresh Non-oxygenated (92 Octane no ethanol) gas. Before I pulled the choke, noticed the shutoff valve that has On, Off, Res. was leaking. No idea from where, will have to either replace it or, maybe if I can do away with it.

Got the bike in neutral and attempted to start it. Engine switch was On and key was on. Got nothing. After about a dozen tries, I pulled the spark plug, noticed it was a bit carbon up, so I cleaned it and shot just a small bit of starting fluid into the head (not a good idea probably, but getting to the carb is a real pain with the air intake the way it is). Tried it again and it started for a bit, added a small bit of throttle and it died. So going to rebuild the carb, and get a different spark plug. Hopefully that clears that up. Would do more, but trying to kick start it with just soft bottom tennis shoes, made the arch of my foot sore. Going to need something better on, if I have to do more attempts like that again.

Seems like I will be keeping the oil injection intact, rather than deleting it. Reason being is, either you are too rich on the bottom, or too lean on the top for oil. If I knew more where I'd be keeping the engine at rpm wise, then I could decide which mixture I could live with, but the oil injection works fine as is, might as well use it.

Getting closer on getting it going. Hopefully by next weekend it'll be running without issues, if I can work on it more. Between looking for houses, planning a wedding, etc, my work time is getting eaten up. Yesterday would have worked on it, but decided to go fishing with my dad instead. I didn't catch anything, though he caught a super small perch. It was small enough where it would take 2 or 3 more just to make 1 fish stick.
 

Kartorbust

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Well 90% success today. Rebuild the carb and cleaned it out. Bit corroded or something in it. The jets were junked up and the bowl was also just as bad. Soaked the bowl for an hour in carb cleaned but wad still fairly green, even after taking a couple towels and going at it. After I got the carb back on and hooked the air intake back on it, started it up and it went. Though it does need partial choke to keep it going. Also did what I could on the air screw, may need a bit more adjustment on that.

Now when I turn the fuel switch to on or reserve, fuel comes out of the side tubes that are pointed down to the ground, like a constant stream. No idea why, maybe I messed up something while rebuilding the carb?

Now I did drive it around a bit. Got it to second gear and went to the stop sign maybe 300 feet away. Well I grabbed the clutch so I could down shift back to 1st so I could turn around, but I stalled it like an idiot...in my defense this is the first 4 wheeler I've driven with a manual gear box, and I've stalled out cars and trucks with manual transmissions so I need more practice. But I got it turned around and drove back to the house. Want to get more time behind it before I'm comfortable posting a video of me riding it. But I can tell you, I had a large grin on my face while driving it. So far my impressions are very good, and for now with a manual gear box, I wouldn't want anything larger. Now granted I've been on quads with CVTs that were 400cc, and I like those. Until I'm better use to the shifting I'm sticking with this 200cc.

Not going to do an engine swap with it. But I'm going to want to get either bushings for the clutch and brake handles, since they have a ton of verticle slop. Need to get a new helmet, as the helmets we have are well over 20 years old (they recommend replacing every 5 years I believe), proper boots at least.
 
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