New "Karter"

[holeshot]

Hi folks. Thanks for letting me on board!

I am brand new to the world of go karts but have been an avid diy person for most of my 66 years. My goal...to put together a solid, safe go kart for my 7 grandkids to enjoy (and maybe for me to run some laps with on occasion).

I just picked up a Kenbar Streaker a few days ago (see pics) I think the model is an SC7 (feedback appreciated).

The kart has a B&S I/C 11 hp engine mounted that was (is) not running. It "looks" like a pretty solid engine, with compression, electric start, etc but definitely needs some tlc. The owner was a creative 14 year old so the kart itself included a number of low cost "Rube Goldberg" mods (e.g. string attached to the throttle) that I have been updating.

I believe this rig was origunally equipped with a smaller engine (5.5 or 6) but as many have said, data on these Streakers is tough to come by. My thoughts were that since the 11 hp engine needed work (time) and was more than my grandkids could handle at this point (7 and under) I would pick up a 5.5 hp Predator and re-engine the kart for this summer. Meanwhile I could putz with the 11 hp to throw back on as they get older (and wiser).

The kart has a Comet 40 clutch setup that I was hoping to use with the Predator via a 3/4" to 1" shaft adapter but since the 40 is rated for higher hp mills I'm not sure if it will work on the 5.5 (Feedback appreciated). Alignment could be tricky given the shorter shaft on the 5.5...I guess we'll see.

The cart itself is in great condition and looks to be intact with all the parts. Appears to have been kept indoors so no sign of pan/frame rust and even the paint is in decent shape.

So that's my story. I appreciate any and all feedback on the kart and/or regarding my plan. I have busted a few knuckles on cars but a total newbie to karts.
Thanks much
GJ

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Very nice streaker! The predator is 6.5HP actually, but I'm not sure if the adapter would work. That kart is INCREDIBLY factory stock and you got really lucky. I have a streaker, open top, live axle, but in no near that condition. Good tires, paint, stickers. Try and fix that front dent, those front ends on karts are almost always bent from previous 'collisions'. Make sure you have a functional kill switch, and get a seat cushion, but these are things you can already see. Have fun! Oh, and one thing, how much did you pay for it? Welcome to DIY, @Thepartsguy is the guy with lots of Streaker experience. I also experienced the lack of online info, but with these guys it doesn't matter too much. Simple machines, model numbers make very little difference, and 'High Performance' is on all of 'em!

 

[holeshot]

Very nice streaker! The predator is 6.5HP actually, but I'm not sure if the adapter would work. That kart is INCREDIBLY factory stock and you got really lucky. I have a streaker, open top, live axle, but in no near that condition. Good tires, paint, stickers. Try and fix that front dent, those front ends on karts are almost always bent from previous 'collisions'. Make sure you have a functional kill switch, and get a seat cushion, but these are things you can already see. Have fun! Oh, and one thing, how much did you pay for it? Welcome to DIY, @Thepartsguy is the guy with lots of Streaker experience. I also experienced the lack of online info, but with these guys it doesn't matter too much. Simple machines, model numbers make very little difference, and 'High Performance' is on all of 'em!

Right you are on the 6.5 Predator....(fat fingers to blame...lol). I paid $300 for it with the 11 hp B&S. Good call on the kill switch....that is a definite. So would that be just a throttle to ground line with a switch on it?

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Right you are on the 6.5 Predator....(fat fingers to blame...lol). I paid $300 for it with the 11 hp B&S. Good call on the kill switch....that is a definite. So would that be just a throttle to ground line with a switch on it?

Kill switch wiring on the Predator 212 is easy, I've never done it but many here have, check out a YouTube video for a quick look. Great deal!

 

[Thepartsguy]

Other members on here will have to chime in but a torque converter keyway is cut into the driver and fits into the cranks key slot. When you use a crank adapter you get a taller custom key with it. so crank shaft adapter then slide in the taller key and slide on your pulley with a key slot. If that makes sense. should of maybe just said a clutch adapter and 40 won’t work. But I’m not sure if 40’s have the key slot or the key in the driver itself. I know 30’s have the actual key in the driver.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Didn’t see the picture before I posted that.. WOW! that’s in awesome shape! Next I would be all over that 11hp and 40 series.. you can limit torque converter throw to keep speed down. Although I think another member @Denny said it’s not good to limit speed that way? Not really sure. those karts are literal tanks...

 

[holeshot]

Other members on here will have to chime in but a torque converter keyway is cut into the driver and fits into the cranks key slot. When you use a crank adapter you get a taller custom key with it. so crank shaft adapter then slide in the taller key and slide on your pulley with a key slot. If that makes sense. should of maybe just said a clutch adapter and 40 won’t work. But I’m not sure if 40’s have the key slot or the key in the driver itself. I know 30’s have the actual key in the driver.

Thanks for your post. I was looking at the 40 driver last night, trying to remove the key and I think you are absolutely right....the key seems to be integral to the 40 driver and can't be removed. This may be a dumb question but can I use a 30 driver with a 40 driven?

 

[Thepartsguy]

For future reference the diffs in these things are junk. if it ever brakes have someone try to only remove one side for ease of teardown split it while the kart is laying on it’s side and weld the spiders. it will lock the diff making it usable but with a much wider turning radius. DO NOT weld it unless it breaks... I only say this because the guy instead of saving the diffs in two of my streakers he scrapped them due to stripped spiders.. the differential the massive disks for the brakes everything he scrapped two whole diffs. So remember if the diff ever breaks it can be fixed. you do not have to rip out that whole disk brake assembly and swap to a live axle.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Thanks for your post. I was looking at the 40 driver last night, trying to remove the key and I think you are absolutely right....the key seems to be integral to the 40 driver and can't be removed. This may be a dumb question but can I use a 30 driver with a 40 driven?

The key is non removable. and your clutch adapter will not work. your absolute best bet is to leave that thing the way it is.. I re-call the previous owners of my straker sta-11’s boasting an 11hp electric start so i’m half thinking that engine is the original. They needed to move big tires keep in mind. That thing is clean enough get it all done up and going and leave it alone.

 

[holeshot]

If I can manage the speed to keep the kids safe, I would definitely prefer to go that route.
I was hoping the conversion to a new motor would speed up the plan but I think the rest of the drive train will cause me just as much grief.

 

[Denny]

Welcome! You’re not going to be able to use that Predator unless you ditch the 40 series set up and go to a 30 series. No you can’t use a 30 series driver and 40 series driven. Totally different designs and belts. Go to the Gokart Supply website and read up on CVT differences and operation. If you keep the 11hp Briggs on it you will be better off! The good thing about a CVT is you can limit top speed for the kiddies and open it up for the big kids (YOU)! If you have any other questions just ask. The diff will love you if you use John Deere corn head grease in it.
Only use Genuine Comet Belts!

 

[Thepartsguy]

Welcome! You’re not going to be able to use that Predator unless you ditch the 40 series set up and go to a 30 series. No you can’t use a 30 series driver and 40 series driven. Totally different designs and belts. Go to the Gokart Supply website and read up on CVT differences and operation. If you keep the 11hp Briggs on it you will be better off! The good thing about a CVT is you can limit top speed for the kiddies and open it up for the big kids (YOU)! If you have any other questions just ask. The diff will love you if you use John Deere corn head grease in it.
Only use Genuine Comet Belts!

Absolute best advice!

 

[Karttekk]

If you decide to install a kill switch, I'd suggest a push button type. The toggle switch types work but if you forget to flip the switch back to RUN you'll pull the rope 10 times before you realize the switch is on STOP. I tossed the toggle style after my arm felt like it was gonna fall off.

 

[Thepartsguy]

If you decide to install a kill switch, I'd suggest a push button type. The toggle switch types work but if you forget to flip the switch back to RUN you'll pull the rope 10 times before you realize the switch is on STOP. I tossed the toggle style after my arm felt like it was gonna fall off.

I always explain it as a slap switch. no thought no effort ever. if you even think something MIGHT be off just slap down smack the switch and it shuts off all power. And ever since then I always for a fact know every switch on any kart I own is down to shut it off and I’s always the first thing I think of now.

 

[Karttekk]

I always explain it as a slap switch. no thought no effort ever. if you even think something MIGHT be off just slap down smack the switch and it shuts off all power. And ever since then I always for a fact know every switch on any kart I own is down to shut it off and I’s always the first thing I think of now.

It dawns on me after the 5th or 6th pull. Never an issue with a push button. Getting old is no fun.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

If you decide to install a kill switch, I'd suggest a push button type. The toggle switch types work but if you forget to flip the switch back to RUN you'll pull the rope 10 times before you realize the switch is on STOP. I tossed the toggle style after my arm felt like it was gonna fall off.

For the kids a kill switch is not a decision, it’s a necessity. I can see why you do push button, I do that with normal engines! @Denny, totally right! Just do a throttle stop with the 11hp an 40 series, that kart has big tires it needs to move. Just a note, never do a throttle stop with a clutch, it’ll burn up.

 

[holeshot]

Thanks folks....awesome guidance.

It sounds like the 11 is the way to go. Now I just need some help in redoing the wiring. The youngster that had it before me pretty much cut 1/2 the wires off. I have some clues as to what goes where but no schematic. Any leads I can follow?

 

[Thepartsguy]

You need to pull the switch out of the dash take a picture of the back of it. every terminal post will have a letter. post a picture of the letters on the back of the switch i’ll help you wire it.

 

[holeshot]

That would be much appreciated.

There are a few areas that have the remains of some colored wire "nubs" where I was trying to logically make connections.

The switch was one (pic).

The coil was another...it has the plug wire and 2 black wires (lugged) which look to possibly connect to a lug on the mechanical governor and I don't know what else...maybe ground?

Starter solenoid has the 2 heavy cables for the battery and starter as well as a smaller gauge red and white wire which I assume goes to the switch.

Lastly, the starter has a 2 lead connector with what appears to be a mating piece going to a low oil shutoff sensor (my guess based on where it enters the block).

I added pics of the other componants thinking that they might help.

Again, thank you so much for all your help!

 

[Karttekk]

I edited your pictures so they all load at once. A basic electric start engine consists of a fat red positive wire from the battery to a post on the solenoid, a fat black or green negative wire from the battery to an engine ground, a power feed wire from the key switch to a post on the solenoid, another fat positive wire on the other solenoid post to inside the starter, a hot wire coming from the battery to the key switch (one side of the key switch is always hot), a fused wire from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid, a ground wire from a kill switch to the coil and if the engine cranks from the key switch there's a wire from the switch to the solenoid. The wire in pic 2 looks like a kill switch wire going to the coil. The low oil cutoff wire does run to the coil in the event the engine runs low on oil. It will kill the engine. On my 80T, the engine cranks from a separate start button. Pick up a good 12V test light and start tracing wires. I don't think one of the coil wires goes to the mechanical governor. Without a schematic, you'll have to trace wires.