anderkart
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Best you can do is confirm the carb is fully wide open when your gas pedal is floored.
New engine (upgrade in progress)
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Screendoor
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Just got my UNI air filter today to replace the larger one in the photo. Trying to get the master link apart on the chain but cant seem to get it apart. any advice?
anderkart
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Yeah, throw it away and use a chain breaker to assemble your chains. (just kiddin, but not really)
No just get a little pocket screwdriver and pry between the closed end of the lock plate and link pin. Once that's off it should come right apart or just require minor prying.
Screendoor
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still cant get it. it is on there tight!
anderkart
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Try a good pair of pliers on the clips open end and link pin, you should be able to squeeze and pop it right off.
Kinda like this pic but he's installing the lock clip:
Don't pinch yer fingers!
Kinda like this pic but he's installing the lock clip:
Don't pinch yer fingers!
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I have tried everything and still no luck!
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Went to northern tool and bought new master links and just put another chain together!
anderkart
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Were you just having problems with your old chain or did you just get a bigger back sprocket?
Screendoor
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I broke the master link off the old chain and put a new one on!
anderkart
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Have you been installing the lock clip in the correct direction? (check my pic above)
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yes i did. but the problem was with the old master link. it was old and had been sitting for almost six years.
anderkart
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Aah, that'd explain why you had so much trouble getting that old lock clip off 
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yesir. I bought an extra master link as well. You never know. Oh and I went to harbor frieght and bought an 11 drawer rolling tool chest for 150 bucks. Now I have a place to put my stickers 
anderkart
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Whoo-ho, man your gettin all hard core on me now!
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Suggestions?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkwYZJ3bHKc
sorry for the dirty lens! Listen for the sputtering! Not sure why it is doing that!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yuwwz2QWBxA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkwYZJ3bHKc
sorry for the dirty lens! Listen for the sputtering! Not sure why it is doing that!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yuwwz2QWBxA
anderkart
Moderator
Has it always had that mis?
Or did it just slowly get worse?
Or did it suddenly start after you changed something?
You could pull your spark plug and lets see how close your jetting is. Check this link and see how your plugs insulator/tip color compares: http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark_plugs_catalog.html
Wouldn't hurt to give a new spark plug a try after doing that too.
Might be a good time to re-set your valve lash too, everything has had a chance to settled in now so it's probably getting pretty loose with your 18lb springs and all.
You could try some premium gas if you wanna, although I'd be surprised if that's your problem.
I think your oil puke tank is alright mounted there. But I'm a little worried your clear line might be getting crushed by that clamp where it adapts to your black valve cover hose... You can buy a 5/16' to 1/4" barbed adaptor at a hardware or auto parts store. But... I was thinking it'd be better to just run a whole new 5/16' hose all the way from from the valve cover to the tank. And then just use a short section of your small clear line as a hose adaptor at the tank fitting. That's how mine is set up anyway, you'd end up with just a very short area that's restricted down to 1/4" this way.
That drum brake issue:
Well if those bolts are stripped that sure isnt helping anything... Probably oughta bite the bullet and replace those with some nice grade 8, fine thread bolts with lock nuts. Or better yet double-nut each bolt. (that's where you use 2 nuts tightened against each other to absolutely LOCK those suckers in place)
I can kinda see why your worried about the rim and over tightening those bolts. I was thinking you could probably install jam nuts tightened up against 1, or both sides of the sprocket. That way you could really tighten up those nuts at your drum without causing any additional stress on the rim.
Or did it just slowly get worse?
Or did it suddenly start after you changed something?
You could pull your spark plug and lets see how close your jetting is. Check this link and see how your plugs insulator/tip color compares: http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark_plugs_catalog.html
Wouldn't hurt to give a new spark plug a try after doing that too.
Might be a good time to re-set your valve lash too, everything has had a chance to settled in now so it's probably getting pretty loose with your 18lb springs and all.
You could try some premium gas if you wanna, although I'd be surprised if that's your problem.
I think your oil puke tank is alright mounted there. But I'm a little worried your clear line might be getting crushed by that clamp where it adapts to your black valve cover hose... You can buy a 5/16' to 1/4" barbed adaptor at a hardware or auto parts store. But... I was thinking it'd be better to just run a whole new 5/16' hose all the way from from the valve cover to the tank. And then just use a short section of your small clear line as a hose adaptor at the tank fitting. That's how mine is set up anyway, you'd end up with just a very short area that's restricted down to 1/4" this way.
That drum brake issue:
Well if those bolts are stripped that sure isnt helping anything... Probably oughta bite the bullet and replace those with some nice grade 8, fine thread bolts with lock nuts. Or better yet double-nut each bolt. (that's where you use 2 nuts tightened against each other to absolutely LOCK those suckers in place)
I can kinda see why your worried about the rim and over tightening those bolts. I was thinking you could probably install jam nuts tightened up against 1, or both sides of the sprocket. That way you could really tighten up those nuts at your drum without causing any additional stress on the rim.
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it has always missed! not sure why! I never got around to drilling the jet. I will check the spark plug this weekend. I just keep re tightening the bolts on the rim that are holding the band brake in place. The Rim threads are stripped not the bolts themselves. Sorry for the confusion.
Anybody know where I can buy a Bug Kart for less than 1000? maybe 1500?
What type of engines do they use?
Anybody know where I can buy a Bug Kart for less than 1000? maybe 1500?
What type of engines do they use?
anderkart
Moderator
They use most any engine you want to bolt on, but why a bug?
Do you want a vintage Bug collector kart or do you you just wanna move up to a good race chassis?
Do you want a vintage Bug collector kart or do you you just wanna move up to a good race chassis?
Screendoor
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honestly i think they look cool. but maybe a used race frame would be better!
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