New build! And i am a TOTAL newbie

[sublimely25]

A video about it.

Dude I am soooooo thankful for this vid and info. Going to save me a ton of research. I got my axle, bearings, sprocket, all installed (ish), I am finding that the keys fit great in the axle but extra stiff going in the sprocket hub. Is there a trick or lubrication I should be using to make the key go in better? Thank you all soo much!!

 

[Karttekk]

Take a flat file and lightly clean up the key grooves in the sprocket, you shouldn't need any type of lube. Don't file the key since it fits in the axle groove.

 

[sublimely25]

Take a flat file and lightly clean up the key grooves in the sprocket, you shouldn't need any type of lube. Don't file the key since it fits in the axle groove.

Right on thanks Karttekk! And everyone else!!!

 

[sublimely25]

Sorry for so many questions. GPS has tie rod ends but not the lengths I need of 17.5 and 8.75. Do I order it longer or shorter than length needed? I know the ends add length. They sell by 2 inch increments, I guess.

 

[madprofessor]

The GPS 3/8" generic tierods have 2" of thread on each end, right-hand threads on one end, left-hand on the other. Need tierod ends (heim joints) to match that, have slightly different part numbers.
You want to get about 1/2" - 3/4" of threads screwed into the tierod ends. Find out what you need eye-to-eye on the tierod ends, figure your rod length from that. Then order the 2" increment size that's long enough to do it, hacksaw off the excess. That's why there's 2'' of threads on each end.
Note: I use kind of fine sandpaper to smooth out my keystocks and the sharp edges of the keyways.

 

[ThunderKart79]

Does anyone know what kind of front spindles I will need. I measured between front brackets and it was 4 inches. This is a manco frame I believe

That’s my Mannco 606 I believe it is a magnum express it came with a Subaru ex170 so I modified the swing arm to handle the 452 cc monster that replaced the 169cc Subaru Robins this cart came with I installed rear disc brake added a third axel bearing created a strong jack shaft when I first installed the engine I could not stop the engine from moving the driven clutch the bolts were not big enough l also strengthened the swing arm when I ran this engine at first it had stock parts as far as the head cam and it also had its balance shaft and stock style carburetor now she has over 1200 in parts and I did every possible port this polish that type trick that I could learn about so good luck to my dear Mannco thank good I have a welder

 

[madprofessor]

TK, am I seeing those spindles right? Spindle barrel welded to A-arms, and the spindle C-bracket is the moving part with the axle on it?

 

[Bansil]

As a 26 yr veteran machinist I would never take a file to a hub, sprocket etc. File the key and make it offset(2 different sizes).
Keys are cheap other parts are not..there are tolerances for making parts and keys are cheap parts,

If key fits in axle tight, push key in and lightly spray paint (or use dykem) key sticking out, scratch it with a pointy stick/nail etc to scribe it, now you can remove key and file off the painted/dyed areas.

Keys wear out from slop, beating back and forth as parts try to twist/rotate on shaft. We typical hold from +/- .001 on slow, lightweight part assembles to +/-.0005 on critical parts.

Sorry for hijack op, but if you open up hub too much to fit a key. Next key could ruin hub.

Bansil...jumps down from soapbox

 

[madprofessor]

I'll take his place on the soapbox.............I'd never file a keyway either.
There's a reason I have footlong pieces of 1/4" and 3/16" keystock. If there's a problem with fit because a key got boogered up, you cut off another brand new one, length of your choice. Can't do that to a keyway of a shaft.
I said I use "kind of fine" sandpaper to clean up sharp edges of keyways and stock. That's "fine" as in about 200 grit, mostly a polishing grade.

 

[WillMatrix]

I am hoping that I will not need to weld but I am willing to give it a go if I need to to make it work

If you do have to weld just take your time and practice on many of the same metals you are about to use. I just did my first build and I’m extremely new as well and I’m surprised of how good it turned out

 

[Karttekk]

File the key and make it offset(2 different sizes).

Makes sense, hadn't considered tweaking the key to fit both the axle and the hub. Initial thought was the key would be sloppy in the axle if it was "shaved" slightly but if only the hub side of the key is tweaked it would fit both. Thanks for the tip!

 

[madprofessor]

Or you can get footlong pieces of keystock in any size you want from BMI for $2.95 each all day long.

EDIT: Wait a minute! Are you talking about fitting something like a 3/16" keyway pulley on a 1/4" keyway shaft? Now I'm dumbstruck, because I've never tried to pull off any machining that precise with just hand tools. Dremel tools have never worked out for me, angle grinder's too coarse to try, a set of hand files is all that would be left for me. Flat mill bastard and a triangular, stock locked in my vise. Scared to try, has to be perfect.

 

[Bansil]

If you have a way to measure both keyway, you can buy stock offset keys from mcm, fastenal etc

Like 3/16 to 1/4

 

[madprofessor]

Now that's just too easy. Looked that up at Fastenal, saw a nice wide variety of combo sizes. Not sure how I've never known about that in my long career, but still nice to learn about it now.

 

[sublimely25]

Thanks for the help got the key to go in on the sprocket. Question..... I just got the front spindles in and the springs are a little to long for it and the spindle to fit, is there a way to compress the spring or should I cut it to length using a cutting wheel. Btw, thanks for all the help you all have taught me a ton!!

 

[Bansil]

No don't cut them, you need the preload, watch gokart alley youtube build, you need the top of spring in at angle towards you.....bottom of spindle in and angled towards you....carefully push both in at same time, this will compress spring and then you can get bolt in

 

[sublimely25]

HOLY HELLLL!!!! 45 MINS and a busted thumb and I beat those springs into submission. Front end is all in, most of the axle is in, brakes in, throttle cable in, front tires on, motor in!! Tomorrow putting the pedals in and tightening things up. Switching out bearings cause I got the wrong ones. Hot dang I can't wait to get this thing on the road.

 

[Karttekk]

Busted thumbs and hours of time are all part of learning about these things. You'll learn tricks along the way that will make things easier. Nothing beats the feeling of accomplishment when you're flying down the street in something you struggled through and completed. Nice work.

 

[Bansil]

Good to hear you had success na...nooo...na...nooo...buddy

 

[madprofessor]

Would have told you about the single mechanic's best friend if I'd known you were fighting springs.
His name is Mr. Visegrips. Holds the backside of nuts or bolts from turning, etc. for you.
For springs, you slip a couple of pieces of flat steel or similar into the side of a spring, with some coils between them. Then you grab both with the opened up visegrips and start turning the tightening screw.
Compresses them some to fit into the space, release the grips, remove the steels. Drive the kingpin home.