New build! And i am a TOTAL newbie

Denny

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You are lucky. Looks like it will be a bolt in going to a round axle. All you will have to do is buy the same stuff for a round axle. (Plus 4x4 rear hubs) you will need no or minimal welding. It’s not a bad skill to learn. Just keep looking around learning and asking questions as necessary. Good Luck.
 

madprofessor

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I don't see any weld on the sprocket hub or the brake disc on the sides in between them. I do see the split in the sprocket hub, and the allen-head screw there to squeeze it tight around the axle.
Guessing that solid brake disc has 2 allen-head setscrews in its hub to secure it to the axle. If there's no weld on the other sides of those two parts, then they should come right off for you. Just sand the axle real well where you expect to slide them before you slop any lube on the axle.
Since axle is trash, just cut it anywhere close to the parts you want to remove. Leave the bearings there, throw out with the axle.
As Denny said, it looks like you've got a lot of easy bolt together stuff for that drive section, and keep looking around.
Check out all the info you can get at "BMIKarts", GoPowerSports", OMBWarehouse, and on ebay. Watch youtube videos, type "gokart axles" in the search bar and you'll see people doing everything you can think of with drive sections.
You don't absolutely have to use "cassettes" or "flangettes" holding bearings on your axle. Most require welding to the frame, but maybe you can find some bolt-ons like the ones you're throwing out. I'll attach pics of how I bolted on pillow blocks to mine.
Get a Predator 212cc engine from Harbor Freight for $130, or $100 on sale like mine. It has a 3/4" shaft, so you need a 3/4" clutch, make it #35 clutch and axle sprockets and chain. Don't blow $90 on a Juggernaut clutch, just get whats cheap in 3/4". Use a 1" round solid steel axle, with stepdown 3/4" threaded ends if it works for you. You can always just cut one down to fit and hold the wheels on with locking collars. Start with the 12-tooth #35 sprocket that likely will come with your clutch, forget the 10-tooth #41 sprocket. Make the axle sprocket a 60-tooth for a 5:1 ratio.
You can cut your own spacers from a piece of common water pipe from a hardware store. 1" pipe fits 1" axles, same way for 3/4" pipe and axles.
Ignore my pics showing I used 4 bearings on the rear axle, it's overbuilt. They just come in lots that way on ebay, 2, 4, 8, etc.
 

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madprofessor

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OOPS! Forgot to say..................If that split-hub sprocket carrier slips off that axle the way it looks like it will (if no welds), just use what you got if the carrier fits 1" round axle and a #35 chain fits nicely on the sprocket. If carrier doesn't, maybe you can fit the sprocket to a new carrier, and you definitely want one, carrier, hub, whatever they call it. Reason is that you can use split sprockets (2-piece) that change size for $15 or less, but mainly because they don't require taking anything off for the change. 60-tooth to a 72-tooth in 5 minutes or less. You can see mine in my pics.
 

ThunderKart79

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OOPS! Forgot to say..................If that split-hub sprocket carrier slips off that axle the way it looks like it will (if no welds), just use what you got if the carrier fits 1" round axle and a #35 chain fits nicely on the sprocket. If carrier doesn't, maybe you can fit the sprocket to a new carrier, and you definitely want one, carrier, hub, whatever they call it. Reason is that you can use split sprockets (2-piece) that change size for $15 or less, but mainly because they don't require taking anything off for the change. 60-tooth to a 72-tooth in 5 minutes or less. You can see mine in my pics.
Those mannco sprocket carries are aluminum so it won’t be welded to that axel
 

sublimely25

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Sooo, progress. I cut the old axle off. Came out clean, but the sprocket hub and the brake disc is absolutely welded to the friggin axle, so I was able to salvage the sprocket it's a 60 spoke. Chain is rusty as heck so that toast. Would square pillow blocks work on this frame, you think?
 

Denny

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No, I would go with what was there originally. That way you keep it all bolt on. GPS stocks all the parts you will need to upgrade to solid round axle and keep it bolt in. On your first kart keep it as simple and stock as you can. One deviation I would suggest to that plan is step up to a 30 series tav-2. It will make it more fun and reliable.
 

ThunderKart79

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I would check out BMIcarts. GPS is awful proud of there stuff OMB is also worth checking out I will get some pics off my cart on here once it gets light out
 

sublimely25

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Right on! Got the axle out and started ordering parts. Ordered a caliper on Ebay, and of course it's the wrong model so looks like I will indeed be learning to weld at least a bracket to hold that on. Nothing is easy. Lol just want 1 part that will just bolt and go. Lol
 

madprofessor

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Glad you were able to knock those parts off the axle. Hope you thought to loosen all setscrews you could find, and the carrier hub's clamp screw.
Realizing now I made a mistake while talking about that stuff. Failed to say that while I'll almost completely avoid doing any kind of pounding on any bearing that needs saving, solid metal parts are different.
I don't have any compunction at all about beating the living daylights out of solid metal like that disc or carrier when they'll be thrown away anyway if they fail to come off. Should have encouraged you on that a while back.
 

sublimely25

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Glad you were able to knock those parts off the axle. Hope you thought to loosen all setscrews you could find, and the carrier hub's clamp screw.
Realizing now I made a mistake while talking about that stuff. Failed to say that while I'll almost completely avoid doing any kind of pounding on any bearing that needs saving, solid metal parts are different.
I don't have any compunction at all about beating the living daylights out of solid metal like that disc or carrier when they'll be thrown away anyway if they fail to come off. Should have encouraged you on that a while back.
Totally cool, found that everything on that axle had been welded so I lost the whole thing but neew parts are starting to trickle in. What size bolts and nuts should I use on the flangettes?
 

madprofessor

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Okay, misunderstood your words, thought you got the parts off the axle.
If the flangettes are the 2-hole variety for 1" live axle application with bolt holes on 3" spacing, you're probably on the right track. Should bolt to your frame, and you use the biggest bolts that will fit through the holes. Recommend using nylon insert nuts to avoid loosening, or double-nut the bolts for the same effect like I do.
 

Denny

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You know there is a left and right manual brake caliper if that is what you are using. You may just have to send back the wrong one and get the right one.
 

sublimely25

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Does anyone know what kind of front spindles I will need. I measured between front brackets and it was 4 inches. This is a manco frame I believe
 

madprofessor

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Only spindle barrels I've found aren't anywhere near as long as 4", more like 2 7/16". You can use those with a pair of 3/4" long spacers and a long enough kingpin bolt, good fit by the tale of the tape.
Apparently your brackets were for springer spindles (nice little bonus there). GPS has those springer spindles as just the big brackets with springs, or with the options for adding a couple of different length Manco spindles to fit them.
You can also get just the springs that fit your brackets.
 

Karttekk

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