My New Streaker Kart

[MrC.]

I picked up this streaker over the weekend, I plan on keeping this one for myself and sell my smaller orange and black carter kart. This will be a build thread for my streaker. Its heavier and longer than my carter, I had hoped to build it up to drift at will.

It looks pretty stock, 1 inch live axle, disc brake, and a comet torq-convertor with a 5 horse briggs. It runs ok, not great but ok. I did drive it, it was very jerky on take off, which I think is chain slack, I can see daylight between the drive sprocket and chain. The 5/8 jackshaft is very worn the bearings look good but the shaft is toast. It has a 9 to 54 sprockets so a good 6 to 0 ratio. The comet convertor looks old but does function and has a new belt on it. Tires hold air but are all dry rotted and cracked. The steering was very hard while driving, sitting still it was easy, I am thinking that is because of the huge back tires (18 inch) I hope that going to a small rear tire will correct this. It has a 1 inch axle that is stepped and threaded.

I do have a few question maybe you all could help with. This is my first live axle kart and first torq-convertor.

1. The comet jackshaft is threaded on one side and is 7 inches long. No one list a 7 inch long 5/8 shaft. The smallest I have found is 8 3/4 or 10 inch threaded or snap ringed.

2. I planned on running 6 inch wheels with slicks on the rear. it has hubs with a 4 on 4 pattern but I can not find 4 on 4 - 6 inch wheels.

3. How do you adjust the convertor, I have read you can adjust the rpm that it locks up at. Is that correct? is it an adjustment or a spring that needs replaced?

Thanks
MrC.

 

[KartBoy03]

v good

 

[MrC.]

Ok guys im at a loss im guessing I could ditch my 4x4 hubs and run a 6 inch wheel that has a keyway. So I have measured my axle and it is truly 1 inch then it tapers to less than an inch but not 3/4.
So do I used a 1 inch bore wheel or im I stuck with the hubs. This girl is heavy and if I could shave some weight that would be good to. I just hate ordering the wrong parts.
thanks
MrC.

 

[chancer]

They make wheels that "step down" for that type of axle. So you can ditch the hubs.
But you need a good measurement of that Axle.
http://www.bmikarts.com/5-Azusalite-Wheel-4-wide-1-to-34-Step-Live-Axle-Rear_p_3289.html

 

[MrC.]

A closer look of the axle
I am thinking it is a 7/8.

 

[Hellion]

I'm leaning towards 7/8" a bit but it's impossible to tell precisely, at least from where I sit.

Get thee this: http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/measuring-tools/6-in-digital-caliper-61585.html

Mine is indispensable--gets a lot of use and I only paid 9.99.

 

[MrC.]

Ok, I have found an answer and a solution.
I called over to gopowersports.com and spoke with Gary (very nice guy) He knew all about ken-bar using a 7/8 taper on a 1 inch axle, He had a solution using a solid wheel with a 3 inch long, 1 inch hub diameter would fit the 1 inch part of the axle running a longer key would fill in any slop where the wheel hub would sit over the tapered part because the key is cut the same depth. A collar or pipe in my case (P.O.) would be needed to seat the wheel on the inside. Then just run the bolt on a little father than using the factory 4x4 hubs. this would seat the wheel 2 inches onto the axle and leave 1 inch riding on the 7/8 taper but would have the key to support it. Done
Since I wanted 6 inch wheels anyway it was the best option vs buying a new standard axle.
Thanks guys
MrC.

 

[chancer]

Sounds pretty good to me.
You could attempt to make a sleeve/spacer/filler for the remaining 1" of 7/8" axle section. A short piece of 1" od emt conduit would do it.

 

[Kentucky Boy]

My Streaker had a bent axle when I bought it. I went with the one inch with 3/4 inch step down. Put six inch Tristars on it that are made for the live axle. They lock on and have the key way in them. I run a 1" locking collar behind the wheel to keep the key in place. It's a nice setup, maybe kind of pricey to do.

 

[Kentucky Boy]

Looked at your pics and we have the same Streaker. I fabricated a new front end for mine since the original had been removed and it had a golf kart front end on it. I found that I needed to downsize the ten inch brake disc to the eight inch to run 6 inch wheels on the back. That required cutting off the brake caliper bracket and repositioning it for the 8 inch disc. I would ditch your wheels with hubs and get the Tristars made for the live axle. Just my opinion. That's a good Streaker frame that can be set up nicely with a little work. Here is a pic of the condition mine was in when I bought it for $100.

 

[chancer]

C. Are you gonna take off that roll cage?
and did you figure out your original T.C. question?
I think you need to buy and change out springs.

 

[MrC.]

Thanks, Kentucky
I would love to see more pics of your kart, it looks so clean.
Funny, I grew up just south of Murray, Ky.

Chancer that's a good idea with the EMT I will try it.

My streaker needs a name, but for now she is going on a major diet.
I have removed the following
Roll cage, 4x4 hubs, angle iron bits some redneck welded on, and a unneeded tab. I am considering removing the seat track and lowering the seat down about 2 inches, then remove the upper side rails and brace plate, then remove the cross bar behind the seat and under it. that said the seat frame is like 5lbs by it self and a plastic seat would help as well. but I like the lines of this seat. so we will see. I hope to shed about 30lbs off this frame. I may build a new front bumper I also may have to lower the front another inch so I will make that call after tires go on. I am going with treaded tires because we run in the grass down here, I have some old 15 inch rears and new 13 inch on the way for the front.
Here is some pics from last night.

 

[MrC.]

My inspiration
Found this picture on the net.
Love It!
( I do not like the pedal / steering placement seems your heels would rest on the tierods, also needs a loud color like lime green or orange)
Otherwise perfect.
MrC.

Anyone know what kind of kart this is? the way the seat ties into the frame makes me think ken-bar. but I don't know.

 

[Kentucky Boy]

I removed the original seat frame from mine, cut the seat mounts off and moved the back a couple inches. I lowered my front end by flipping the spindles upside down a removing the steering arms from them and rewelded them back onto the opposite side. You can get about two inches lower in the front by just modding the spindles. One suggestion I recommend is replacing the weak plastic steering wheel with a metal one. Here's a pic showing the front before I rebuilt it.

 

[Kentucky Boy]

And after the repair work.

 

[MrC.]

Thanks for sharing Kentucky, The Kart looks awesome. Nice to know I am not the only one cutting the weight out of these heavy karts. I agree the plastic wheel flex's a lot I will swap them out.

Hey Chancer- No I haven't figured anything out about the TC, I have ordered a new shaft and bearings, I did find the spring on the driven was out of its hole so I put it back in its place, Its all tore apart know when I reassemble I will double check it.

MrC.

 

[chancer]

My inspiration
Found this picture on the net.
Love It!
Anyone know what kind of kart this is? .

That kart was built and shared here. by "Fast eddie" I have seen it before.
It is a manco American Express. Am Ex's are Way cool!
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=17268

 

[MrC.]

Hey chancer
whats the story on those tires. I cant find them anywhere. Maxxis website or ebay. Are they rain tires for racing karts?

Mrc.

 

[chancer]

I dunno. I thought they were a popular race tire company. I never looked for them though.

 

[chancer]

Weird I could not find them either.
But Bridgestone makes a couple cool Rain Tires.