my mini chopper

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mckutzy

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Well fortunately I don't live at that place anymore, moved out about a year ago.
Where I'm at now, "could possible", but alot of kids in my town home complex.
I'm just leaving at my sisters house for now, it will be good there for a while.
 

mckutzy

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No prob. By allmeans.
Off hand I think its just about 80-110lbs.
I don't have a scale to measure it right.
Overall I can get the thing into a truck/van myself if need be.
 

mckutzy

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So about a week ago I made a new bracket for my brakes. The original one I made was alright but I wasn't happy with it. I had a piece of 14ga stainless my boss rounded up for me.

I ended up getting it drilled and bolted on, also I made an extension for the actuator arm. Also got everything back together and a test run(no riding as I had no brakes)

Yesterday, I got ambitious and was going to finalize the brake situation, the actuator rod needs shortening.

So just as I was thinking about things, I decided to let it run a bit.... A couple of pulls with the kill on.. And out comes about a cup of gas out the tailpipe. Like as you spat a mouthful of hot coffe out.
My gas tank was now empty aswell.
I reckon I left the petcock open last run... Again.... I bet there is about a liter or so of gas in the crank case aswell.
I also noted I'm going to need new carb gasket set.
 

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There was suppose to be another pic aswell. This was a mock up placement....
 

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mckutzy

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So I got the brakes in and still a bit of tweaking with rod length. Really a pain.
More importantly, I'm having no low end so starting off is just a real B....

I figured the numbers again, currently I have a 6:1 ratio (14-28-24-72), but I know that having 2- 24t on the jack shaft is super hard to get going without stalling out.
The only thing I can think of is adding a 22t to the js output, making it 6.545:1.
(For those just tuning in and/or just a reminder; 24" OD rear tire, champion 6.5hp clone w/stock internals, modified exhaust/intake w/rejetted carb, gov in, DBR manual clutch.)

So guys what should I do??? I'm hoping that I don't have to remove the gov(I would have to disassemble the bike again, I'm really looking to avoid that) and I'm still confused on the whole needing new flywheel/con rod, need/don't need valve springs debate?
 

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Thanks guys. I guess I was keep my focus by the limits of what's available via the princess auto's sprocket selection, and that's why I'm having troubles with this.
Their selection is grouped by the chain and hub sizes(they only stock weld-on-hub sprockets). 22t is the smallest they have to fit a 1" bored hub.

I forgot I had bought a tiny 10t sprocket from a industrial supply place awhile ago, for building my kick starter(I have to modify the motor plate to fit it correctly).
I looked them up again, They have a number of 1" bore sprockets from 15t to 72t.
I'll order a 16, 18 and 20 tooth sprockets, try them to see where things are with the acceleration.
With the above sprockets the final ratios will be
-(16t) 9:1
-(18t) 8:1
-(20t) 7.2:1
 

firemanjim

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I didn't realize what the problem was.... :oops:
Go up from a 28 to a 34 to get 7.284:1..... 36= 7.7:1..... 38=8.14:1..... 40=8.57:1...... 42=9:1......
Would that work for you, or did I miss something else? :eek:
 

mckutzy

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My front chain guard on the jackshaft won't allow a bigger sprocket to fit, unless I bend or cut it. I do like that piece, and I think it's one of the main points of the bike.
I just got enough space when I had to put a 28t on the input side, after I got that DBR clutch. It has 14t.
 

firemanjim

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Get 18,19, and 20.... For some reason, I don't think you're gonna need more than 8:1, so I'd try 7:1--7.5:1--8:1, but that's me. You had/have 6:1 and going to 7:1 is a big step in torque. You said it's hard to get going with out stalling. I think 7.59:1 is going to suit you nicely, giving you the oomph you need out the hole, and leave you a decent top end. But I'm going by my way of thinking..... I've been wrong before. 9:1 just sounds too low.....
 

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Pardon me I meant to say, it takes a short while to get going with the throttle down, and continuing to do so stalls it out. I'm guessing too much resistance in a short distance. About 50' on flat ground.
I useally just pulse the throttle to bring up the speed of the bike, and let the motor rev down a bit before I throttle it back up again.
 

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I just heard back from the industrial supplier for the sprockets. Going to be in stock for me on Wednesday. That will be awesome to gitter going again.
 

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A little update on the bike situation.... Well this will be a conjoined thread of my bikes...

The other day I got a new motor overyonder at the princess auto. $139... After my F-up with the rocker stud... I needed another or a new motor... Motor it is(now the other champion is just shelved for now not scrapped... I heard some gasps and grumbling;)....).
I also got a new shaft and bearings...
Here's what I got sofar back together, I reckon I'll get the rest tightened up and running tomorrow.
 

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The neibour kid was over when I was working on this. He had another larger mountain bike tire that was decent, but I had to cut a nub of steel of the fork for it to fit. I'll do that hen I finish.
 

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So after a mishap.... (Ok... A Plain case of not paying enough attention) I managed to get the bike running.. And idling fine.
Take a look here if interested... http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=30099

I ended up for keeping the front wheel as is. It holds air and spins good.

It needs a bit of work with the chain tensioner, but it rides nice. In fact, I'm guessing due to the small rear tire and 6:1 ratio, it can almost pop the the front end up. I can defiantly feel it has adequate power off the line and down range.

The first ride out in the back lane of the complex, was kinda scary, cool but scary.. In a good way... I never had ridden a true minibike, but this kinda feels like when I see you folks with yours.. My bike I built, feels like a smaller motorcycle, not like this as it is lighter than mine..

Pretty cool and fast..
 
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