My latest CMB Chopper restoration Project!!

[zogthegreat]

Dressing lines can be 1/4" ID I spose and my lines measure (with a caliper) 3/16" w/ brass fittings. Yeh, 1/4" dress-up stainless braided line in blue or ?? , would look great.

1/4" might be hard to find, my 12 ton RV only uses 3/16, Can you change the fittings on your master cylinder and caliper?

 

[KingCobra]

1/4" might be hard to find, my 12 ton RV only uses 3/16, Can you change the fittings on your master cylinder and caliper?

Yes, they are typical brass water line fittings. First you slide the 'nut' or threaded cap onto the line and then the line sleeve 'Ferrule' about 1/8" in from the end and then insert it against the area it goes, slide the line nut onto the treads and as you tighten it, it uses that brass line sleeve or 'Ferrule' as a seal. Do you know what I am talking about? Many refrigerators have the water and ice makers and use the same set-up to connect to the water at the wall behind the refrigerator.

That gives me a thought. Maybe I can use the same clear heavy duty water lines and being able to see through them would be cool.

I will take a photo.

OH GEEEEZ!!! Now I see stuff I need to clean

 

[KingCobra]

OK, today I assembled the jack-shaft and installed the rear chain. I am not happy with the way it is,but it works. I know it works because I drove it before the re-build. BUT>> A couple things I didn't notice is that the rear 60t sprocket must not be centered with the 6 bolts that hold it.I spose the sprocket holes may be larger than the bolt diameter. And the chain matches the front sprocket and a bit on the large side for the rear sprocket. My guess is that they chose a wrong rear sprocket because it is causing two whammies LOL....... Chain too big for it and it's lopsided. When I turn the wheel at one point the chain feels good and snug and I turn it a bit more and the chain feels a bit sloppy but a snug kinda sloppy ..... Oh well, it works. My guess is that the chain is a #40 to match the JS sprocket and the rear sprocket is for a #35 sprocket. Guess what? I has pictures for you again.....

 

[zogthegreat]

Nice work! I really like how the collar on the outside of the rear axle looks, I might copy it!

BTW, do you know the brand of your brake caliper? Also, did you see that the caliper is at an angle to the disc?

(EDIT) BTW, why did you choose to go with two different chain sizes? Is that "standard" or personnel preference?

---------- Post added at 04:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:38 PM ----------

If you find something cool along them lines, feel free to post it here.

What lengths do you need?

 

[KingCobra]

Nice work! I really like how the collar on the outside of the rear axle looks, I might copy it!

BTW, do you know the brand of your brake caliper? Also, did you see that the caliper is at an angle to the disc?

(EDIT) BTW, why did you choose to go with two different chain sizes? Is that "standard" or personnel preference?

---------- Post added at 04:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:38 PM ----------



What lengths do you need?

# 1)>I had extra collars so I thought an extra one would be for good measure and by the way, the nice black ones were hitting the bearing outer shell so I had to switch to these smaller ones.

# 2)>I think it is the way I took the photo, but I will take another look and make an adjustment if I must. I loosened up the left side and made the chain snug after installing it, maybe that was it. I also remember loosening the left side of the rear wheel and moving the bearing keeper back and forth to see if that was how to adjust the chain tension before I snapped the photo. I might have had it out of wack.

# 3)>I am using the chain and sprockets that came with it but I assume that that is the wrong rear sprocket and maybe I will replace it at a later date to a 50 -54t #40 for more speed

# 4)>My bolt lengths are 3 3/4 to 4" in length minus the heads. I'm going to use the hardened allen bolts I believe. I think that is what your question was for, The bolts are 5/16". As for my black nylon hydraulic lines, they are each 46" long X 2.

 

[zogthegreat]

I found this brake line, I'm thinking of using it on my build also:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Various-Fu...m41cd40b20c:m:mk1gy0tNWorvwrBzARKnRxA&vxp=mtr

 

[KingCobra]

Well, I got my new hemi 212cc bolted up and hooked up the throttle and ran it around the block a few times and had a ball. I then removed the Preditor gas tank and hooked up the fuel line to my chopper gas tank and turned my petcock on and................... nothing. Full tank of fuel, new HD petcock and no nothing nada. Hmmmmmm, I thought just maybe there needs to be a blockage because of air not being able to flow out the other end to let the fuel in. I pulled the fuel line off and turned on the petcock and plenty of fuel wanted to run out. OK, so my petcock is ok. Well, I thought, OK, I'll run the engine and when it uses fuel, it has to allow fuel in from the tank. Yep, that's what happened and more with the vibration. That explains the air line in the top of the original tank for ventilation.

OK, well I could have loosened the bolt under the float bowl and bled the fuel line but it seems to be ok now. I'll know when I run it tomorrow. I'm sure as the engine uses the fuel, it will pull more from the chopper tank like a vacuum pull. And my gas cap is ventilated. I'll get pictures up of my progress later. Thanks.

 

[KingCobra]

OK, here's the latest photos. Also, you can see the rear chain guard is in place and I have to polish it next. I will take this out for a ride a few times today before I finally sit down and go over everything with polish while I wait to be able to order the new custom exhaust header and air cleaner and carb kit. I also adjusted the throttle stop a few turns because at the factory setting, it sounds like it runs to 1000 RPM . I also have to figure out how to lock my throttle grip to the throttle sleeve cause it's slipping and I tried GOOP to no avail. I know that a good layer of electrical tape and push the grip back on really hard will do the trick. Anyway, let me know what you think and suggest I do next. Thanks for looking, Scott

 

[KingCobra]

OK, let me catch my breath!! WOW! I just came back from a ride around the block with a straight-a-way of approx 1/2 mile and, ok hold on, I'm still trying to catch my breath....... And those who I wanted to see me ride this beast were in their yards ... OK I think I'm good now. From when I started to throttle up to where I had to turn 1/2 mile later, this beast was still gaining speed!!!!! I swear that I got up to approx 50 MPH before I had to slow down and brake for my turn. BTW, I love the hydraulic brakes! I cannot tell you just how fast this will go but it seemed to have an automatic transmission that wouldn't quit shifting!! I wish there was a way to calculate the eventual speed this will do. I know that is a TAV 2 Comet torque converter with a new belt. Then I think there is a 10 tooth driver sprocket from the Comet to about a 14 t driven on the jack shaft. Then at the jack shaft the sprocket is about an 18t to maybe a 54t at the rear wheel. I don't have enough room to open the throttle all the way up,but, it did not hiccup in the least and no problem with the governor!! I love this beast. No wonder they were so costly!

 

[KingCobra]

OK, one more thing here. I had returned from showing off again LOL...... And I wanted to see how to eliminate the brake pedal chatter cause it's the only thing that chatters now. I was inspecting the side play and was thinking that I could make some nylon washers thin enough to slide in there to take up the gap ( also can make from clear plastic containers from your local store) and that is when I spotted an even bigger problem! If gone un-noticed for much longer, it could have resulted in a crash,cause when you lose balance on a chopper, there's a good chance you're going down. I'm talking about the steel pipe welded into the frame that the foot peg is mounted in. I saw a reddish crack in the paint and I grabbed hold of the foot peg and sure enough, I could rock it back and forth ((forward and backward) with mild force. I need to carefully remove the paint around it ( the old weld seam)and weld it back up. I also want to weld on some extended highway bars for more leg room. IF you have any other ideas on how to stop the chatter with my foot lever, let me know. Thin rubber washers would be ideal and I have a new but destroyed inner tube to carve washers out of.Thanks.

 

[zogthegreat]

Damm! Your lucky that you found that! No brakes = no good! I think that my frame had the same problem with the welds braking, that's probably why the previous owner welded the bolts on to hold the foot pegs.

BTW, how wide is you jack shaft? And what gear ratio's do you use on your chopper. I'm going to blatantly copy you there!

Also, how far forward is your motor from the jack shaft mount?

It's really starting to come together. That paint job is awesome, I love the "shadow" fade that it has. It makes the red look like it's raised up.

 

[KingCobra]

Damm! Your lucky that you found that! No brakes = no good! I think that my frame had the same problem with the welds braking, that's probably why the previous owner welded the bolts on to hold the foot pegs.

BTW, how wide is you jack shaft? And what gear ratio's do you use on your chopper. I'm going to blatantly copy you there!

Also, how far forward is your motor from the jack shaft mount?

It's really starting to come together. That paint job is awesome, I love the "shadow" fade that it has. It makes the red look like it's raised up.

Yeh, when you enlarge the photo you see that the welder missed half the seam when he welded! Most of the weld bead is on the foot pedal shaft. There weren't many of these produced so I doubt this was welded by robots. That braided hose you found looks cool. I'm going to see how cheap it would cost on ebay and maybe in red or blue. Jack-shaft is 5/8" X 10" long 1/4" keyed and I don't know how many links I have in the chain but the rear mounting plate of the engine is 12"from the jack-shaft. Look to my previous post for sprocket estimates and if you need precise, let me know.

 

[zogthegreat]

It looks like your using a 13t and an 18t and planning to go with a 54 on the rear end.

Another question that I forgot to ask. I see that you and some other members are using an aluminum block to mount your motors. Is this for a visual effect or is there a practical consideration?

 

[KingCobra]

It looks like your using a 13t and an 18t and planning to go with a 54 on the rear end.

Another question that I forgot to ask. I see that you and some other members are using an aluminum block to mount your motors. Is this for a visual effect or is there a practical consideration?

It's mainly where the engine mounting plate holes are located on our particular projects using the Comet Torque-a-verter. When them holes are where they are and causes the driven pulley to lay on the frame, you have to raise the engine. The torque a verter rode more horizontal on the Tecumseh that on this Pred. I don't regret it but you will only know when you do a mock up. Tell me where your right side engine mounting slots are in the mounting plate in inches from the left side of the frame edge and I will measure mine next time I go outside. Then you will know if you have to think ahead.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-thick-60...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

 

[KingCobra]

I gots new parts in today! I got my custom exhaust today that I special ordered from Miami Saturday, my battery, and my carb jet kit, and I'm still waiting for my custom air cleaner kits. Should be later today maybe. My exhaust came out beautiful! $98 pus $7 tax!! What a job well done.

 

[zogthegreat]

Pretty! Are you keeping the color or painting it? Where did you order the exhaust from?

I'm planing a similar exhaust, but with the pipe coming out just about the rear axle and then swinging up. I'm going to try to bend it myself, but I might have to order one depending on my results!

 

[KingCobra]

OK, I got my new air cleaner kit and I wondered if I should install the #36 or the #37 main jet. How about the emulsion tube also? I see the new one has less holes in it and for what purpose I don't know. What would you guys do here? Thanks

Pretty! Are you keeping the color or painting it? Where did you order the exhaust from?

I'm planing a similar exhaust, but with the pipe coming out just about the rear axle and then swinging up. I'm going to try to bend it myself, but I might have to order one depending on my results!

Check out their store also. They custom make these and they have many to choose from.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Bike-...696282?hash=item41d6cdf5da:g:hFMAAOSwB09YHnWn

 

[KingCobra]

OK, I went with the .037 and an emulsion tube change for my open header and air cleaner upgrades and WOW! The throttle response is wicked cool! Absolutely no hesitation what so ever. That shows what a good tuned engine should run like. OK, I'm nearly done with it except for the need to bolt up my battery box and install my new battery and lighting wiring etc. I'm also going to install a kill button near my throttle I spose. If I can't look cool starting this bad boy, I'll look cool shutting her down I checked for continuity between my front forks and my engine and frame and it was positive. That's great because I won't have to install any ground wire straps.... Stay tuned

And for your viewing pleasure here are some photos!

 

[Honda450R]

Should have put the predator 420 in it, still sweet tho

 

[KingCobra]

Thanks, maybe in the future when I figure out what all I will need to do that. I know they have the 1" drive shaft so I will seek out the torque converters for that set up. I wanted to go with the GX390 most of all but the Pred was so simple and cheap and I had it all on hand.

BTW, my ebay name is >>ScottsHondacr480R<< As in 1983!!