My Design

[Simon Thomas]

Toystory_4wd,

If I drill a hole in the middle (say 5mm diameter) and use pin or nail to hold the wheel sprocket, do you think it is practical enough and does not break the rod one day due to stress and jerking impact? In short, it is the same way I do with the propeller (shown in photo) in the earlier post.

Please advise. Thanks.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

How hard is it to drill out? Usually, stainless steel is pretty hard to drill. It's not aluminum, is it?

Don't use a nail- Use a shear pin or bolt. It really is preferable (IMO) to cut in a keyway, and use a key and setscrews, but if this is not practical for you, then use a shear pin or bolt. I suggest you be aware of the diameter of the hole- too big, and you really will weaken it significantly. I would suggest no bigger than 3/16" or maybe 7/32". I would be afraid to get any closer to 1/4", although it might actually be okay. (For the metric folks, the range I suggest works out to 4.75-5.5mm.

Again, make sure it is supported well, and try to locate all hubs (wheel, sprocket, brake) close to a bearing.

 

[machinist@large]

I took my used speaker (at the back has magnet) and put it close to my boat propeller rod and does not stick. Is the rod shown (shinny look) in the photo one of the 3 series? I intent to buy this kind of rod to substitute the broken threaded rod. This rod is quite tough when used to suppport our boat propeller. Only the diameter used is probably 1/2" or slightly less. For my buggy, I follow advice from toystory_4wd to stick with 1" diameter rod.

Do you think this is ideal to subsitute my broken threaded rod? Attached is the photo.

If it's non magnetic, it's most likely an equivalent for U.S. spec 3 series.

Toystory_4wd,

If I drill a hole in the middle (say 5mm diameter) and use pin or nail to hold the wheel sprocket, do you think it is practical enough and does not break the rod one day due to stress and jerking impact? In short, it is the same way I do with the propeller (shown in photo) in the earlier post.

Please advise. Thanks.

As long as the hole dia. doesn't exceed 1/4 the dia. of your shaft you should be OK. But see below.

How hard is it to drill out? Usually, stainless steel is pretty hard to drill. It's not aluminum, is it?

3 series stainless isn't hard; it's abrasive due to the chromium content.

Don't use a nail- Use a shear pin or bolt. It really is preferable (IMO) to cut in a keyway, and use a key and setscrews, but if this is not practical for you, then use a shear pin or bolt. I suggest you be aware of the diameter of the hole- too big, and you really will weaken it significantly. I would suggest no bigger than 3/16" or maybe 7/32". I would be afraid to get any closer to 1/4", although it might actually be okay. (For the metric folks, the range I suggest works out to 4.75-5.5mm.

Again, make sure it is supported well, and try to locate all hubs (wheel, sprocket, brake) close to a bearing.

Key way with set screws better, key way with taper lock hub is best. Problem with the hub is that they are real pricey here in the States; I wouldn't have a clue what they go for over seas.

 

[Simon Thomas]

Brilliant tips

Thanks machinist@large for reply. Of course, I expect you to advise on this matter since this is your area of expert.

I have the useful tips already from you two including toystory_4wd. Thanks for the brilliants tips.

I should start going to the shop this weekend looking for these stuffs mentioned here.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

As long as the hole dia. doesn't exceed 1/4 the dia. of your shaft you should be OK.

LOL- I coulda sworn I said something like that!

 

[Doc Sprocket]

I would suggest no bigger than 3/16" or maybe 7/32". I would be afraid to get any closer to 1/4", although it might actually be okay..

Wait, I DID!

 

[CaptCanadia]

Wait, I DID!

Congratulations.

 

[machinist@large]

Wait, I DID!

Sorry, still learning how to use this multi quote thingge. Also, it was late and I was tired.

 

[Simon Thomas]

Okay with all suggestions

Sorry, still learning how to use this multi quote thingge. Also, it was late and I was tired.

Hi gentlemen,

I am okay with all the constructive comments and suggestions and glad have people like you who are not hesitate to share your view. That's much much better instead of meeting the dead end road without finding a way out:toetap05:. I find lots of rational in your thought which I can apply in a real test later without compromising on safety aspects:biggrin5:.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Hey- it's all good!

 

[Simon Thomas]

Fiberglass works

Gentlemen,

In the same time, I am also working on fiberglass making. I am very new in fiberglass. Last week, I purchased a fiberglass package of RM50 (around USD17) from a bumper car shop. It comes with the (i)fibermat, (ii)glue and (III)hardener. If success, I want to make body for my buggy and in the same time cloning my pump ski boat which is now using thin plywood (currently can last 2-3 years and after that need to purchase new boat from the boat maker again at RM500 or USD167). Just a plan so that the fiberglass boat can be used longer than that.

I tried yesterday evening pasting the mixed glue and hardener on the fibermat. I used a plain thin plywood as my mold and after dried, the fibergalss was easily removed with some plywood chipped-off together as well. It was a success in term of making it and not hard as imagine to work with fiberglass. The challenge now is how to use my boat body as my mold without peel-off the paint as well.

Can I put like motor oil on the plywood so that the finished fiberglass does not stick on the boat body?

Anybody can advise me on this issue? Thanks.

 

[machinist@large]

Can I put like motor oil on the plywood so that the finished fiberglass does not stick on the boat body?

Anybody can advise me on this issue? Thanks.

This question, I'm totally out of my depth; other than using it for insulation, my experience with 'glass is zilch. I think you are on the right track; problem is, I don't know. Any one else in the forum; can you advise, here?

 

[Simon Thomas]

It's okay

This question, I'm totally out of my depth; other than using it for insulation, my experience with 'glass is zilch. I think you are on the right track; problem is, I don't know. Any one else in the forum; can you advise, here?

It's okay, no problem . You are very helpful in providing me some useful tips with my buggy problem. Thanks for being pro-active as well in answering the doubt and uncertainty with your area of expert.

My personal view is that being the DIY person, we need to diversify our skill not only in common area that we are expert, but to explore the other areas as well. Hope you agree with me. That's what I am doing now - exploring the fiberglass making.

 

[machinist@large]

It's okay, no problem . You are very helpful in providing me some useful tips with my buggy problem. Thanks for being pro-active as well in answering the doubt and uncertainty with your area of expert.

My personal view is that being the DIY person, we need to diversify our skill not only in common area that we are expert, but to explore the other areas as well. Hope you agree with me. That's what I am doing now - exploring the fiberglass making.

you got it in one. Keep us informed, and good luck !!!

 

[Simon Thomas]

Hydraulic Brake Bracket Setup

Paul,

Please find below my hydraulic brake bracket setup per your private message to me. Sorry unable to attach the photos in that section and only could attach here. Also apologize for unable to get really close-up photos as I do not have them. However, I attach some here for you to see from my file. The brake set-up is at the right side of the photos. Hope this helps with your current project.

FYI, I left my buggy at the country side / remote area and not fixed yet. I still look for suitable rod to replace the broken threaded rod. I found one shop last weekend however the shop offered me RM30++ (USD10) per feet which is quite expensive to me. Later I heard MS steel is probably cheaper at 40' length at RM150 (USD50).

So I am still stuck here.

 

[landuse]

Thanks for the photos. I think I can see from them how you did your setup. Good idea.

Have you maybe got scrap metal dealers that you could get a axle? You can normally get good metal from them. Is your buggy safe in the country side like that? Are you not afraid it is going to get stolen?

 

[Simon Thomas]

Scrap Metal Dealers

I haven't got chance to check at the scrap metal dealers yet. In the past, I saw they sometimes used to sell parts that we probably need especially for DIY works. I take your advice and visit them this weekend if I have chance.

My buggy is safe there and hopefully not got stolen because it uses old motorbike engine.

However my buggy really attracted people in that area because they could not believe the motorbike engine 100cc could spin the car 13" wheels. Well I feel like breaking the Malaysian Guiness Book of Record at that time when riding it crossing the villages and residential areas.

The kids like it most!

 

[Simon Thomas]

More Time

I still could not find what I want. Some more will be off-station the whole week next week. I may take time to look for the stuff I need to replace the broken threaded rod:toetap05:.

 

[Simon Thomas]

Finally found the rod

I finally found the 1" diameter rod made of mild steel at a metal shop. They have 7' in length, excess from previous purchase. At first I wanted only 5' length at RM20 (about USD7) but not sure the actual length that I need so I took the whole length of 7'. I paid the new length at RM28.

I went to the remote area where I parked my buggy and took the measurement. Return home then cut the rod according to the measured length of 135cm.

Will post the photo soon.

 

[landuse]

I am glad you finally go some rod for your project. Now you can get going and fix up your kart