Moosemobile- Two seater kart

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OzFab

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Yeah, the steering arms look almost square in your previous pics, now I see the difference in the overhead pics, that setup looks like it works rather well :thumbsup:

The idea behind "brake return" is the disc should have a small amount of runout (around 1mm) to push the pads away from it; a return spring is only to release the caliper enough for that to happen & the pedal & cable should be adjusted accordingly...
 

moose

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Paint job

So... The canadian tire in Shawville only sells spray paint in tractor colours. Ford blue it is, then!

WP_20140802_001.jpg
 

moose

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New brake setup

I originally picked up a pretty typical mechanical disc caliper, which I actuated with a 1/16" aircraft cable (~100lb working, 400lb breaking strength), but I keep snapping the cable. I think the cable has been fraying from me over tightening or something, but I am done with mechanical.

I managed to pick up a wilwood setup that I will adapt for the kart. WP_20140815_001.jpg

I am not sure if I will run it in front or behind the pedal. I also might move the pedals forward, because its a little cramped as is.
 

OzFab

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Man, talk about overkill :roflol:

The simple way would be to set the master in front of the pedal but, that comes with inherent problems like, if you hit smoething, there's a high chance you'll end up with no brakes...

Setting the master behind the pedal comes with it's own problems; you'll need to set up a pivot point to reverse the action...

But, I'm sure you're already aware of all that... :)

IMO, the problem with the cable is it's simply too thin; most of us use that size cable for throttle cables; a brake cable does a lot more work, therefore, it needs to be bigger...
 

moose

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Man, talk about overkill :roflol:

The simple way would be to set the master in front of the pedal but, that comes with inherent problems like, if you hit smoething, there's a high chance you'll end up with no brakes...

Setting the master behind the pedal comes with it's own problems; you'll need to set up a pivot point to reverse the action...

But, I'm sure you're already aware of all that... :)

IMO, the problem with the cable is it's simply too thin; most of us use that size cable for throttle cables; a brake cable does a lot more work, therefore, it needs to be bigger...


Yeah, it is a little overkill, but its leftovers from another project, so I may as well!


What do others use for cables? I have a bicycle background, so when I started failing brake cables I was a a little stumped. I thought about going to the junkyard and getting a parking brake cable ($3 at local scrapyard), which would be fairly easy to adapt.
 

firemanjim

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For brakes, I use 3/16" or 1/4" cable, depending on the application. A big kart,big tires, and a manual disc, I'll use 1/4" cable with my own jacket, and I utilize leverage in the pedal length, to multiply the force put on that brake.... 1/4" is over kill, but when using cables for this purpose, I'd rather go 1 size up from the normal........ BUT then again, I coulda had my brain on the "hot" side a couple of times too many..... :lolgoku:
 

davidbooth1991

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Yeah, it is a little overkill, but its leftovers from another project, so I may as well!


What do others use for cables? I have a bicycle background, so when I started failing brake cables I was a a little stumped. I thought about going to the junkyard and getting a parking brake cable ($3 at local scrapyard), which would be fairly easy to adapt.

Just thought I'd put this out there..
If your snapping cables left right and centre why don't you go to a workshop and see of you can scrounge some stainless handrail rope it starts at 3mm and obviously goes up to 25. Obviously stick to 3-6mm. ( I didnt make that exact handrail but I've made similar and that stuff is mega strong)... But will cable housing / jacket / thingy be a prob??????
 

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moose

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Just thought I'd put this out there..
If your snapping cables left right and centre why don't you go to a workshop and see of you can scrounge some stainless handrail rope it starts at 3mm and obviously goes up to 25. Obviously stick to 3-6mm. ( I didnt make that exact handrail but I've made similar and that stuff is mega strong)... But will cable housing / jacket / thingy be a prob??????

Thats what I am wondering... You can get "aircraft" cable in fractional sizes, but same problem with housing. I see that some kart sites have housing for 5/64" inner cable. But for that price, upcycling a PB cable looks more and more attractive.

.... From a VW of course!:2guns:
 

firemanjim

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On a big kart, I'll use steel tubing ,bent how needed, as the conduit. Then I push a piece of polyethylene into it. Then add the cable,sprayed with multiple heavy coats of drymoly lube. The polyethylene I buy from homedepot, and you can buy a more rigid type there too. It's water line made by a company called "Sharkbite"..... Stiff, yet flexible..... :thumbsup:
 

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moose

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On a big kart, I'll use steel tubing ,bent how needed, as the conduit. Then I push a piece of polyethylene into it. Then add the cable,sprayed with multiple heavy coats of drymoly lube. The polyethylene I buy from homedepot, and you can buy a more rigid type there too. It's water line made by a company called "Sharkbite"..... Stiff, yet flexible..... :thumbsup:

Great idea!! I'm imagining using automotive brake line, is that what you mean?

I am thinking I might keep the mechanical caliper and add the hydraulic, then with some magic (read: hours of fiddly fab work) I can rig up a parking brake for the kart.

Too bad I am going to wreck my paintjob with all this extra welding....:mad2:
 

firemanjim

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Thats what I am wondering... You can get "aircraft" cable in fractional sizes, but same problem with housing. I see that some kart sites have housing for 5/64" inner cable. But for that price, upcycling a PB cable looks more and more attractive.

.... From a VW of course!:2guns:

Emergency brake cable from a car..... :thumbsup:
 

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firemanjim

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Great idea!! I'm imagining using automotive brake line, is that what you mean?

I am thinking I might keep the mechanical caliper and add the hydraulic, then with some magic (read: hours of fiddly fab work) I can rig up a parking brake for the kart.

Too bad I am going to wreck my paintjob with all this extra welding....:mad2:
WHOA...... What welding? Using the cable, you need to drill one screw hole at worst. Make a clamp on style mount for the cable assembly, best route for a painted chassis.
A parking brake is easy...... You're thinking about it toooo hard...... And over looking the simple......
 

moose

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Welding some mounts for the new caliper and master cylinder. I guess I could try a bigger cable with the existing setup, saving that hydraulic combo for another build...

I could easily use the existing cable stops and mount points with a bigger cable.

On the other hand I already have that wilwood stuff...:stir:
 
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