Mini Bike Rebuild

joshw0000

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It turns out I had 2 minor issues. The black piece on the carb sometimes sticks against the plate above it when you push it in place. I haven't figured out why but I can tell instantly and readjust it. And the fuel line wasn't poked down in the black guide. So the rod that runs from the governor to the carb would push out and bind. Somehow I never caught both issues at the same time.

She's running good now. I'm going to let it run for about 30 minutes to seat the gaskets and change the oil with some more non-synthetic 10w-30. Once the motor is good, I need to re-install the chain and clutch and she should be good to ride.

I appreciate all the help!!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dGDmvEaPUsHRsVYb9
 

joshw0000

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The mini bike is a success! I ended up removing the chain tensioner. I don't think I need it. No throttle or braking issues. I can drive it much faster now that I know I can stop and the rear wheel will hold air.

My only complaint is that the right foot peg seems too short due to the motor sticking out. I can't comfortable rest my right foot for fear it will slide off. I'm going to see if I can find some longer ones on the innerweb.
 

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Thepartsguy

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Honestly it'll probably be next weekend. I can't find one of the pieces to the master link for the chain. I just ordered a replacement. And the replacement bracket for the brake hasn't come in yet.

I'm definitely ready!!
I have a heavy duty chain brake and do not use master links or half links. one master link the chain is to long no master link the chain is to short. I push a pin out of One link reconnect the chain then tap the pin back in. Very easy and saves a ton of headaches with chain length. those tensioners are ok and I really like them. I have heard of cutting them and re-welding to gain some extra tension.
 

Thepartsguy

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Dude, bro....ugh video ? :unsure:
Even tho my video kinda suck.....still got them :p
I wouldn’t begin to know what to search to find that video.. anyway not the link you put the master link on but the link that if you push the pin out your left with both ends and the pin hanging out of one side. slip the chain back together and hammer the pin back in. peen both ends so it won’t walk out. Best part is no breaking master links. I refuse to run #35 chain at all. master links In my opinion are pin needles used in place of steel rods. engineer the chain to fail. I was doing donuts over a mile from home and broke a master link.. never again.
 

joshw0000

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I wouldn’t begin to know what to search to find that video.. anyway not the link you put the master link on but the link that if you push the pin out your left with both ends and the pin hanging out of one side. slip the chain back together and hammer the pin back in. peen both ends so it won’t walk out. Best part is no breaking master links. I refuse to run #35 chain at all. master links In my opinion are pin needles used in place of steel rods. engineer the chain to fail. I was doing donuts over a mile from home and broke a master link.. never again.

Yea, we had this discussion in a go kart thread. It's just not for me. Master links are made to make the chain removable. Yes, your method is stronger but if the chain ever has to come off I'm going to be cussing. And in in this case, the master link didn't come out, I hit a bump and chain jumped off because I simply didn't have it tight enough.

This bike has an adjustable mount plate under the motor. I just loosened all 4 bolts, slid the motor forward and held light tension with a bar while tightening the bolts. Then I reinstalled the tensioner. I'm not too concerned about chain issues with this one. I never had any before I swapped motors.

And I know, I really should swap the clutch for a torque converter. Maybe one day, but the clutch is doing fine for now. I'm just trying not to hurt myself on this thing.
 

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Thepartsguy

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Yupp those chain tensioners are good also. You can have it moved if the chain becomes a problem. D6BC758A-CFAF-4EE4-BEAE-B2CD30449C3E.png
 
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