Manco Silver Fox B&S 6.5hp

[Edwin Spangler]

I did start my post with pictures. I get it, you would like more photos. Other people have asked for some as well. I will get more photos.

You say it looks like I have all the parts for repair. I don't have any spare parts at all.

Usually dont need to replace anything, just clean and lubricate. Maybe the brass collar.

Not sure if anyone has asked for pictures yet but yea lol... Disassemble and show us all the parts.

They can tell you with great precision any and all things you may need.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

I know you don't have spares.
Just let's see more of what you have.
Could be something as simple as an incorrect spring or a part just not installed correctly.

As Bree says , we're here to save you time money and frustrations.

 

[Denny]

And while you are at it GET A GENUINE COMET BELT!!! Yes, they are more expensive but will save you grief. The cheap belts will kind of just melt and make the clutches do strange things. Trust me on this one!

 

[jergar4]

Here are more photos. It's piss pouring rain outside so I'm not taking anything apart today. Things I noticed though. The housing to the one on the left is able to be shaken. I assume the washer I found on the ground when it fell off was being used as a spacer to push that in.

The washer behind the nylon nut was loose on the cvt on the right.

Yesterday after I reassembled the parts that fell off and drove around the yard for 15 minutes, the belt has some stripping down the side. I'm thinking it has something to do with the washer I found on the ground.

 

[Denny]

Oh so many things I see wrong. The primary is not aligned with the secondary. It doesn’t appear to be out all the way either. Did you install the belt backwards or just use a cheap non-comet belt? Because that’s how the Chinesium yak grease and rice fiber belts look after about 1/2 hour of riding. Total junk!

 

[jergar4]

Oh so many things I see wrong. The primary is not aligned with the secondary. It doesn’t appear to be out all the way either. Did you install the belt backwards or just use a cheap non-comet belt? Because that’s how the Chinesium yak grease and rice fiber belts look after about 1/2 hour of riding. Total junk!

I'll be sure to pic up some good belts. That's just what came with it. Know of any big box stores that have them or are they online basically?

I'll do some looking around and figure out how to get the primary and secondary lined up. Thanks.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

 

[Denny]

Look on line, one belt will cost about $45.00 or so but will outlast the others by more than 10-1. The belts only go on one way on a 30 series so don’t screw it up. Go-kart supply carries COMET belts and they have a handy chart for choosing the correct one.

 

[jergar4]

The flat washer looks like the one I found on the ground with the parts that fell off the primary. Where does it go?

 

[Denny]

Behind the bolt to hold the primary on.

 

[panchothedog]

When you go to reinstall the driver ( the part that flew off that bolts to the
engine) make sure you have decent thread contact. Meaning that the bolt is long enough, but not so long that it bottoms out before it starts clamping down on the driver. Put lots of blue thread locker on it, and let it sit for a day so the thread locker has time to set up. Also it should be tightened to 25 lb. ft. If you don't have a torque wrench it's probably about 60 to 70 percent as hard as you can pull with one hand with a medium sized ratchet. There is a lot of stress on it, and tighten it correctly will prevent the fly offs. Been there, done that, several times.

 

[jergar4]

Behind the bolt to hold the primary on.

I figured as much. Thanks. It just didn't seem like that was where it was meant to be by the size of it.

 

[jergar4]

When you go to reinstall the driver ( the part that flew off that bolts to the
engine) make sure you have decent thread contact. Meaning that the bolt is long enough, but not so long that it bottoms out before it starts clamping down on the driver. Put lots of blue thread locker on it, and let it sit for a day so the thread locker has time to set up. Also it should be tightened to 25 lb. ft. If you don't have a torque wrench it's probably about 60 to 70 percent as hard as you can pull with one hand with a medium sized ratchet. There is a lot of stress on it, and tighten it correctly will prevent the fly offs. Been there, done that, several times.

I was going to put some loctite on it. I was thinking blue. Thanks for confirming the right color.

 

[Denny]

Blue Loc-Tite is our friend.

 

[jergar4]

Alright, I pulled the primary apart. It looks like the springs are bent/dented. I'll order more springs to have on hand.

The brass bearing has a crack down the center. I saw a video online where a guy says he just doesn't use them. Is that a good plan?

The spacer is 1/2" and it looks like the primary needs to move out about a 1/4". Do you know where I can find a 3/4" spacer? Will this mean I'll need a longer bolt to hold everything on?

And it looks like everything could be cleaned up. Degreaser and a light sanding?

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Yeah clean that all up and you can stack a few washers in there for spacers. You might need a longer bolt. Depends an how much engagement there is.

 

[Denny]

Only use dry graphite to lube it! No oil and clean the burnt off belt off the shieves.

 

[panchothedog]

Your alignment is off but it doesn't look like a 1/4". With the belt removed you want to use a straight edge on the inner flat sheeves of both the driver and the driven. They need to be very close.
Most of the kart supply shops sell shim kits that are made for doing this. It has been a LONG LONG time since your driver ( or any part of the converter ) has been cleaned. Also the garter springs are shot. They come in different strengths.
Stronger ones will let the engine rev a little higher before engaging.

 

[Hellion]

You are kind of rude.

One man’s bluntness is another man’s rudeness. I did not mean it as a serious disagreement in case there’s any bad blood between us. If you receive some real abuse from someone here, let me know because I have the ban hammer and the gavel.

Anyways, glad you are getting into the guts of this CVT. As you can see it is infinitely serviceable (up to a point I suppose). Anyone here know the manufacturer? Is it a Comet or a Chinese copy?

 

[jergar4]

Your alignment is off but it doesn't look like a 1/4". With the belt removed you want to use a straight edge on the inner flat sheeves of both the driver and the driven. They need to be very close.
Most of the kart supply shops sell shim kits that are made for doing this. It has been a LONG LONG time since your driver ( or any part of the converter ) has been cleaned. Also the garter springs are shot. They come in different strengths.
Stronger ones will let the engine rev a little higher before engaging.

I went ahead and ordered a new spacer that added that 1/4". If that is wrong, I believe someone mentioned flat washers would be ok to use.

I'm going to clean everything up real good. Brake cleaner and graphite I guess.

Do you have a preference on garter spring color? I was thinking of just going to the original, as I don't know much about rev engagement.