Manco 813 rear axle rebuild

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Sorry for the week late post,

So the paint on the clutch cover is dry, did a finger nail test and was cured.

I had to clean, wire wheel, sand, prime and paint the areas that were really rusty and cut the foot panel on the passenger side out from when this kart was wrecked.

That was a pain, I’m not a sheet metal body repair guy, but I tried my best to re-bend the angles section back best I could, I think it’ll do seeing as it’s on the bottom. Now with the paint, jeez that turned out to be a mess, paint orange peeled really bad, so had to re-sand and clean it all back up and shoot it again. The more crisp red areas are what I had to paint. And the areas that were messed up with paint are in spots that don’t get seen to much.

I went somewhat went through the engine, and have to say I have not seen an engine with mud in it (see pic). Cleaned all that nasty mess out and went through other parts to clean them and replaced gaskets, some definitely needed to be changed out.

I put the front wheels back on, greased the bearings and spindles then started cleaning the overspray that was all over. The Jackshaft mount needed new bearings and the pipe in side needed to be replaced, some reason the pipe was 2 pieces welded together 🤔🤔🤔.
 

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madprofessor

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In my experience with teardowns of semi-hermetic refrigeration compressors, color and consistency and such factors of the oil would usually indicate possible causes of mechanical and/or electrical failures. That brown mud that should be near colorless in refrigeration oil would indicate persistent over-temperature, such as inadequate motor power supply wiring (over-amperage), bypassing discharge (extremely hot) high pressure through rings or valves or reliefs, badly worn bearings (blackened), etc.
What did it mean that went wrong in your engine?
 

Denny

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Water mixed with oil will look like that. Or oil mixed with water. Depending on your view. May have been sunk before.
 

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The guy told me it hadn’t run in a while, when I first got it, way before tear down. I did a carb job and got it running, but I can’t remember if I checked the oil in it.......... I’ve got 2 of these engines but regardless I should have checked before I started it. Rookie .......... I’ll try to post a video if I can of it running
 

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I got a massive problem, I have a serious wobble in the jackshaft..... Ill have to figure out how to post a video of what it does. I took it all back off and checked the driven for warpage and the shaft itself, neither one had a bend or warp from what I could tell. What will cause this to happen?

I did manage to do a SLOW test ride sitting on a blanket and still have adjustments to make.
 

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not sure is this is the correct way or not
 

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The kart is looking great by the way. I suspect the bearings or the tube they fit into might have too much clearance. I noticed it smoothed out with rpm.
 

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The kart is looking great by the way. I suspect the bearings or the tube they fit into might have too much clearance. I noticed it smoothed out with rpm.
Thank you!!!!
Thats a idea I wouldn’t have thought about..... I put in new bearings and the new tube...... I’ll check the bearings again, they both measured.6285 with my calipers, the tube on the other hand had more clearance. The bearings were different model numbers, but figured being the same I.D. and O.D. it should have been fine.
 

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Old bearing number. 499502H
new bearing number. 6202 2RS

no sir. Used a large socket and a small ball peen hammer to drive them in. I couldn't push them in with my hands, Inside of tube was A tight fit for the bearings.
 

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No need to take off chain. Wow this is a curious one. There were no breaks in the jackshaft tube or plate I’m assuming. No worn spots on the shaft where the bearings ride. And the shaft is straight. I would ride it and see what fails in that case. But I have a tendency to do stupid stuff like that. If there were no weird vibrations I’d call it good.
 
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There was a crack in the plate next to the tube, I measured the tube for flatness before I welded the crack up. That came out to be .520 on both sides of the tube.

Also I did find something, the new small tube I put in was to king, I noticed that one bearing was sticking out a little bit and the other side was sunk in the big tube. I’m trimming this tube down now and going to put it back together.
 

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Ok. I think I fixed it. It wobbles much less. But still has some. The spacers I made were leftover pipe pieces and Im pretty sure they were not cut exactly square, also the inner small tube was too long. Shaved about .150 off. The new spacers I used were washers so they were flat. I did notice that one side of the large tube I was able to push the bearing in with my hands, so I was very wrong about the earlier post!!!!! I’ll post up a video of the current setup later today.

Denny and mad professor. Thanks for the help so far!!!!!!
 

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My very first thought reading your #26 post was about locking collars. Enlarging the pics shows the good nylock axle nut on the inboard end of the jackshaft, so the shaft's not going to migrate toward the belt. However, there's no good pic that shows any kind of locking collar on the other side of the jackshaft tube, just the big space between there and the output sprocket.
What prevents the jackshaft from migrating back and forth a little bit as the belt misaligns slightly away from perfect as things spin around, so that the sprocket moves closer to and back away from the jackshaft's tube via the shaft migrating back and forth?
 

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My very first thought reading your #26 post was about locking collars. Enlarging the pics shows the good nylock axle nut on the inboard end of the jackshaft, so the shaft's not going to migrate toward the belt. However, there's no good pic that shows any kind of locking collar on the other side of the jackshaft tube, just the big space between there and the output sprocket.
What prevents the jackshaft from migrating back and forth a little bit as the belt misaligns slightly away from perfect as things spin around, so that the sprocket moves closer to and back away from the jackshaft's tube via the shaft migrating back and forth?
I dont really understand the question? Never was good at comprehension.

the sprocket shouldnt move though
 

madprofessor

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Basically speaking, if the nut on the right-hand side of the jackshaft is up against the tube, then the shaft can't move any toward the left-hand side of the kart.
However, the question is can you push the shaft towards the right-hand side of the kart any at all, so the sprocket moves with the shaft towards the right-hand side of the kart, sliding the jackshaft through the tube's bearings? That's what would happen if there wasn't a locking collar or something else like that on the shaft and up against the left-hand side of the tube like that axle nut is up against the tube on the right-hand side of the tube.
 

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Oh ok gotcha. No sir. There is no movement left or right . The the nut is not making contact with the tube on the right side.
 
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