Lunar Rover (prototype)

Functional Artist

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TOP SECRET (so don't tell anyone) :cool:

NASA Space Program

Mission:
Design & build a Lunar Rover (prototype)

Requirements:
Lightweight (gotta be shipped to the moon or ...)
Electric/battery powered (can't go around pollutin' other atmospheres)
Multi-terrain capable (gotta be able to climb into & then back out of craters)
Durable/reliable (can't be breakin' down 1,000,000,000 of miles away)

* NOT REALLY :rolleyes:
...but, a kool "backstory" for a build :roflol:
 

JTSpeedDemon

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Now, since you are Functional Artist, you also have to build an electric rocket for NASA so they can ship it there!:lolgoku:

I'll be watching!:popcorn:
 

Functional Artist

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A "real" Lunar Rover (Moon Buggy) would IMO probably be constructed out of Aluminum, Titanium (or some other exotic metal), maybe even some type of composite material.

I'm thinkin' this "prototype" will be constructed mostly out of 1/8" steel
...1/2" schedule 40 "water" pipe (7/8" od. x 5/8" id. x 1/8" wall)
...& some 1/8" flat steel :cheers2:

Why?

Cause it's strong, affordable & easily workable with most standard tools. :thumbsup:

So, after extensive research, thought & a little planning) :rolleyes: I started drawin' on some 1/8" x 3" steel

Can ya tell where the inspiration for this/these :)oops: spoiler alert) came from?

* No, it's NOT gonna be a Bat'leth :lolgoku:
...if ya don't know, Google it :roflol:
 

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itsid

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Mission:
Design & build a Lunar Rover (prototype)

Requirements:
Lightweight (gotta be shipped it to the moon or ...)
Electric/battery powered (can't go around pollutin' other atmospheres)

*cough* lunar atmosphere ??
You need electric power on the moon because there is no combustible oxygen in moons nearly non existing atmosphere
(frankly even nasa considers the moon to surrounded by a vacuum for almost all considerations)
the few molecules of helium and radon are really not noteworthy.

so yeah... correct decision, wrong reason :D

side note:
the real lunar rover (LRV) was rather hefty with 200+ kgs (it's essentially a two seater go kart)
but it mustn't jump out into lunar orbit just because it hit a rock ;)

'sid

PS pleaaaase make it a six wheeler :D
 

JTSpeedDemon

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Kevin, are those panels modeled after a 1933 Bugatti Type 59, per chance?
Look at the chassis rails. :cool:
This picture is the mild street version, the swiss cheese was more evident on the racers.
 

Functional Artist

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Rc car or are you building this thing to drive?

RC=boring :smiley_omg:
..I'ma gonna drive/ride 'er

---------- Post added at 02:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:42 PM ----------

Now, since you are Functional Artist, you also have to build an electric rocket for NASA so they can ship it there!:lolgoku:

I'll be watching!:popcorn:

I'ma buildin' it :thumbsup:
...they can worry about shippin' it :cool:

---------- Post added at 02:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:44 PM ----------

*cough* lunar atmosphere ??
You need electric power on the moon because there is no combustible oxygen in moons nearly non existing atmosphere
(frankly even nasa considers the moon to surrounded by a vacuum for almost all considerations)
the few molecules of helium and radon are really not noteworthy.

so yeah... correct decision, wrong reason :D

side note:
the real lunar rover (LRV) was rather hefty with 200+ kgs (it's essentially a two seater go kart)
but it mustn't jump out into lunar orbit just because it hit a rock ;)

'sid

PS pleaaaase make it a six wheeler :D

Ya, I know
...just usin' the opportunity to "crack" on gassers :lolgoku:

Six wheeler hummmm :idea2:
...maybe next time, not the "look" I'ma goin' for ATM :thumbsup:

---------- Post added at 02:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:48 PM ----------

Kevin, are those panels modeled after a 1933 Bugatti Type 59, per chance?
Look at the chassis rails. :cool:
This picture is the mild street version, the swiss cheese was more evident on the racers.

Nope,
Inspired by the designers/engineers of Percival's Hellcat (early '60's)
...look @ the "stress plates" on the rear :cheers2:

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=24416
 

Functional Artist

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Drilling big holes in 1/8" steel

Well, after burnin' up several (plural) step bits :huh:

I did some research & found that as you "go bigger" in bit diameter (like ~3/8" & up)
...you gotta go slower (like ~500-600RPM's slow)
…& to drill holes over 1" you gotta go really slow (like 200-300 RPM's slow)

* These "really low" speeds seems to work well when using hole saws too :thumbsup:
...think like hand powered hack saw speeds :cheers2:

** addin' a little cuttin' oil helps too :2guns:
 

Kartorbust

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The original rovers were built with 2219 Aluminum alloy, with four 0.25hp series wound DC motors with a range of ~22.3mi.

So any plans for adding suspension to your version?
 

Functional Artist

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Dual 48V 1,000W powered AWD rover

:cheers2:
The original rovers were built with 2219 Aluminum alloy, with four 0.25hp series wound DC motors with a range of ~22.3mi.

So any plans for adding suspension to your version?

Kool! :thumbsup:

I'ma thinkin' AWD will be necessary for climbin' outta craters-n-such :2guns:
* to test this capability, I'm thinkin' it should be able to climb up stairs
...maybe even "walk up a wall" :smiley_omg:
So, I'ma gonna go with the (2) small but, super powerful 48V 1,000W MY-1020 motors (~1 HP ea.)
…& put 'em on live axles :cool:

During plannin', I thought about incorporating suspension
...but, probably not on this one (tryin' to keep 'er kinda simple & relatively lightweight) :cheers2:
 

Functional Artist

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Machining the Bearing Brackets

So, after learnin'-n-figurin' the proper way (or at least a more successful way) of drillin' big holes, I got (16) holes drilled :thumbsup:
...in each piece :cheers2:

Then, trimmed off the excess material :2guns:

* Can ya tell where I messed up? :huh:
**HINT: it's visible in last the pic :mad2:
(but, IMO not bad or visible enough to necessitate a redo) :rolleyes:
 

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Functional Artist

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3D Bearing Brackets

Now, let's make these bearing brackets 3 dimensional :thumbsup:

My HF metal bender is only rated to bend ~16g. steel
...but, these are made outta 1/8" (~11g.) steel :cool:

So, during the planning stage, I added some relief holes to aid in bending these brackets :cheers2:

I slid the piece most of the way in to do the "outer" bend first
...then, after the first bend I simply slid it out, to the "inner" line, & bent it again. :2guns:

That seemed to come out pretty good :smiley_omg:
...so, I did the second one the exact same way but exactly opposite :rolleyes:

I did a quick video too :cornut:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0KVk5WM2hI
 

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Functional Artist

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Tail Section Upper Rail

Now let's bend some pipe :wai:

Here's the plan :thumbsup:
…& here's the Upper Rail :2guns:
 

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Functional Artist

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Assembling the Tail

Next, we gotta align/attach the bearing brackets to the Upper rail :thumbsup:

I used a 5/8" rod to help align the bearing brackets
…then, clamped 'er down good :cheers2:
…& then, tacked 'em down :2guns:
 

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MrC.

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Thanks for sharing

Thank you, for making the rest of us with grinders and a welder seem somewhat inadequate.
And I'm handy.

Merry Christmas
MrC.
 

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Functional Artist

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Next, I (temporarily) installed the bearings & axle to double check the symmetry & squareness
...just to be sure everything lines up properly :thumbsup:

Then started workin' on/linin' up the "goose Neck" :cool:

My lower level stress plates ended up a little longer than necessary :huh:
...but, longer is "way better" than too short :cheers2:
 

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