LawnBoy Engine dismantling, cleanup and rebuild #2

[Russ2251]

Appears to be ok as long as it is genuine article.
Should be completely rubberized.
Anyway, that is flywheel seal. What about pto seal?

 

[Russ2251]

By the by, Permatex 300 failed immediately. One loop of parking lot and blew through.
I'm going to try again. Two more sealants to test after this.
Extremely frustrating.
There is an answer to this dilemma, and I will find it.

 

[kibble]

Supposedly the don't have separate seals anymore. From what I found out, the 611396 replaces the 605020 and is used for both ends. UNLESS I looked at the wrong diagram... Which is highly likely. Please don't tell me I need another seal....

 

[kibble]

By the by, Permatex 300 failed immediately. One loop of parking lot and blew through.
I'm going to try again. Two more sealants to test after this.
Extremely frustrating.
There is an answer to this dilemma, and I will find it.

Well, that's great news...

Perhaps the answer is "original gasket"?

 

[Russ2251]

If all else fails, worst case is going back to original gasket.
Luckily, I have 2 on hand.

Please don't tell me I need another seal....

Geez...left is PTO side, right is flywheel side. You can keep the quarter.
Check your documentation.
DuraForce is only Lawn-Boy engine that uses 2 different size seals.
How did you miss this?:toetap05: :rolleyes3:
There is a retaining snap ring associated with larger seal. I hope you did not lose it!!!

 

[kibble]

Geez...left is PTO side, right is flywheel side. You can keep the quarter.
Check your documentation.
DuraForce is only Lawn-Boy engine that uses 2 different size seals.
How did you miss this?
There is a retaining snap ring associated with larger seal. I hope you did not lose it!!!

I didn't have the seals with me at work and I didn't remember what they looked like. I did clean them up pretty good though after removing them. I have the service manual with me but it doesn't have the part numbers or anything and it didn't show the seals, it just said to replace them. So I tried doing some searching and all I could come up with was that 611396 part number.

No, I did not lose the retaining snap ring. I cleaned that up too.

 

[Russ2251]

Correct seal part number is 94-5764.
Get a couple of them, just in case.

 

[Russ2251]

Leaking head/cylinder sealant

I noticed that blowout of head sealant always occurred (3 times w/different sealants) in general area of (above) exhaust port. This was too coincidental to be believed.
I decided to lap head on a flat surface using valve grinding compound to determine if contacting surface was/was not uniform. It was not. See pic.
I took pic and then continued to lap head until 'low spot' faded away. Took about 40 minutes to complete the job by hand.
Did the same thing on block and found no low or high spots.
Tomorrow I will re-seal, re-torque, re-test.
I think I've nailed it.

 

[kibble]

Hmmmm... Interesting! So maybe the 300 will work after all?

Let me know! I'm expecting to get all the stuff I need soon.

 

[Russ2251]

maybe the 300 will work after all?

Hopefully...
I could kick myself for not looking into this sooner. I do know better.
I'm thinking of going back to Hylomar, which should've worked in the 1st place.
*"A chain is no stronger than it's weakest link" applies here.
Hopefully, I have eliminated the weakness.

*William James 1842-1910

 

[kibble]

By hylomar, are you talking about the 515 stuff?

 

[Russ2251]

Post #42 (Kibble post #47)
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1093&page=3&highlight=Lawn+Boy+engine

Posts #1 through 9
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1494&highlight=Hylomar

 

[Kenny_McCormic]

You were the one telling me it would only work with a perfectly flat head! Well Im no better, put a mower engine together today AND FORGOT TO HOOK UP THE KILL WIRE!!!

 

[Russ2251]

You were the one telling me it would only work with a perfectly flat head!

Uhhh...well uhh...yes. I admit it. I up. I made an assumption and you know how that goes.

 

[2or3wheels]

You were the one telling me it would only work with a perfectly flat head! Well Im no better, put a mower engine together today AND FORGOT TO HOOK UP THE KILL WIRE!!!

Ive done that, if you can touch the wire to the block, or just choke it fully, not a good way to stop it but it gets the job done.

 

[jr dragster T]

Ive done that, if you can touch the wire to the block, or just choke it fully, not a good way to stop it but it gets the job done.

Wash down...

 

[Kenny_McCormic]

Wash down...

yea, not good.

 

[Kenny_McCormic]

Ive done that, if you can touch the wire to the block.

No, I forgot to attach the kill wire to the coil before replacing the blower shroud. Mower cut great and quit burning oil but when i flip the key to off it kept running, ended up pulling the plug wire off and ripped the connector off the wire.

Turns out the wiring harness that attached to the fuel shutoff noid I removed (IDK what its for but its been replaced with a bolt cause it leaked and caused problems) also has the engine shut off wire on it and I didnt notice when I tore down the engine to fix the blown head gasket.

 

[kibble]

Post #42 (Kibble post #47)
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1093&page=3&highlight=Lawn+Boy+engine

Posts #1 through 9
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1494&highlight=Hylomar

Oh, ok. I forgot about those threads.

I'll give the 300 stuff a shot and see how it holds up for me. If the same thing happens that happened to you, I'll check for uniformity, or lack thereof, of the head. I should be receiving all of that stuff soon. Maybe I'll be able to do some work to it this weekend.

 

[Russ2251]

I finished re-assembling but decided to let it cure overnight before cranking it up. I have a gut feeling it'll be just fine.