kawasaki kd125

[glb7]

OK! this is my "dirt bike" i put "dirt bike" in "" because it doesn't run. the whole inside of the gas tank is rusted out, i tried some things to get the rust out, but there is no way i can get all of it out. there used to be a rubber tube like thing leading from the carburetor to underneath the seat where the filter was, but its gone. its DIRTY!! as you can see. we got this about 2 years ago for 200 bucks and it ran, we only road it in the summer when we would go camping in eastern Oregon, but when we did ride it, we road it hard! i took it all the way to Nevada ( only about 20 miles from camp, but still ) i think the problem is is that the rust from the tank is polluting the fuel, and maybe the carburetor is plugged? and then again, we haven't changed the oil in it sense we got it so maybe everything is clogged with bad oil? i need pointers on what to do. there really isn't any room in my garage to work on it ( and again, as you can see...) but its only because where storing our down stairs furniture in there because where painting the room, so when we get it painted, ill have a work space. i'm going to need to get a new tank, but the ones i have found for this specific bike are around 300 bucks!! so i'm going to have to find a tank that will fit the frame. and maybe make an adapter for a new filter? again pointers on what to do would be greatly appreciated! here are some pics

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Step 1- drop that fuel tank in the scrap heap, followed by the fuel filter and all lines. They're done.
Step 2- Put that plug wire back on.

 

[glb7]

Step 1- drop that fuel tank in the scrap heap, followed by the fuel filter and all lines. They're done.
Step 2- Put that plug wire back on.

just the tank in the scrapper LOL the lines are new... and for some reason, there are two spark plugs in the engine, so that wire is on another spark plug

 

[Doc Sprocket]

That can't possibly be designed so that one plug sits with no connection. Either you're missing a wire, or the coil's been changed out. A plugg sitting there dead would only get gunked up and be useless as a spare. It must've used a waste-spark system, or it fired in tandem.

 

[newrider3]

That can't possibly be designed so that one plug sits with no connection. Either you're missing a wire, or the coil's been changed out. A plugg sitting there dead would only get gunked up and be useless as a spare. It must've used a waste-spark system, or it fired in tandem.

Quite a few older bikes had a spare plug, yes they would still be good if the first fouled. Often the second plug hole was used for a compression release instead.

 

[HellSpawn]

Doesn't look to be in -too- bad of shape.

If you want to salvage that tank, get some gravel (with smaller rocks..) put some in the tank, and go to town.. Roll the thing around, tip it back and forth, ect ect.

It'd also be wise to sand-blast the outside to reveal any pin-hole leaks that may have formed from the rust.

 

[glb7]

Doesn't look to be in -too- bad of shape.

If you want to salvage that tank, get some gravel (with smaller rocks..) put some in the tank, and go to town.. Roll the thing around, tip it back and forth, ect ect.

yea i did that, with some slr or whatever that rust removal is called. i let it sit for a couple of hours then shook it around and emptied then did it again with just water. isn't there stuff that you put in the tank and shake around and it hardens and then covers the rust?

 

[glb7]

I remember riding down the road in 5th gear when the spare plug shot out of the hole! OH MAN was that CRAZY!!!

 

[HellSpawn]

yea i did that, with some slr or whatever that rust removal is called. i let it sit for a couple of hours then shook it around and emptied then did it again with just water. isn't there stuff that you put in the tank and shake around and it hardens and then covers the rust?

Yeah, POR15 would work beautifully for this.

I still recommend tossing some gravel in and shaking the hell out of it just to get as much loose rust out as possible if you are going to take the route of lining it.

 

[glb7]

yea maybe lining it would work better then getting a whole new tank.

 

[glb7]

is this a 2- stroke or a 4-stroke?!?

 

[glb7]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kawa...0841206QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

JACKPOT! whats that stuff called that you set your carburetor in and it cleans it?

 

[newrider3]

Carb cleaner??

You can't por-15 or Kreem the tank without removing the rust. Most of the time you would use muriatic acid to clean and prep it, but that would likely eat holes in that tank considering how badly it is rusted.

 

[glb7]

Carb cleaner??

You can't por-15 or Kreem the tank without removing the rust. Most of the time you would use muriatic acid to clean and prep it, but that would likely eat holes in that tank considering how badly it is rusted.

doesn't por15 bond to rust?

 

[DustinWolfe]

what we usually do in this situation is put some sand and light oil in the tank and put it in a paint shaker. i dont know if you have access to one but it would be easier than finding a new tank (at least cheaper) so far the results have been good so it may be worth a try. your tank looks pretty bad but i think it can be salvaged.

 

[glb7]

what we usually do in this situation is put some sand and light oil in the tank and put it in a paint shaker. i dont know if you have access to one but it would be easier than finding a new tank (at least cheaper) so far the results have been good so it may be worth a try. your tank looks pretty bad but i think it can be salvaged.

i wonder if anyone would care when i took my tank into home depot and had my friend that works in the paint place put it on the paint shaker... LOL!

 

[DustinWolfe]

i wonder if anyone would care when i took my tank into home depot and had my friend that works in the paint place put it on the paint shaker... LOL!

ha i bet its worth a try

 

[bighead]

I have cleaned about 50 tanks in the past 5 years. This is how I do it on tanks that are rusted just like this one.

The process I use it called electrolysis. I use a small battery charger and banking soda to remove 100% of the rust. I then use the POR15 as decribed by POR 15. Don't use kreem. Por15 is much more forgiving.

Basiicaly you filling your tank up with water and baking soda. Make a cap that a metal rod can go into the tank without touching the tank. Hook the ground to the outside of the tank. The hot to the rod that goes into the water.

Electrolysis is a technique for returning surface rust to iron. It uses the effect of a small low voltage electric current and a suitable electrolyte (solution). It has advantages over the old standbys like vinegar, Coke, muriatic acid, naval jelly, wire brushing, sand blasting, etc. Those methods all remove material to remove the rust, including un-rusted surfaces. With many, the metal is left with a "pickled" look or a characteristic color and texture. The electrolytic method removes nothing: by returning surface rust to metallic iron, rust scale is loosened and can be easily removed. Un-rusted metal is not affected in any way.

What do I need?
A plastic tub; a stainless steel or iron electrode, water and washing soda (Arm & Hammer, for example) and a battery charger. About a tablespoon of soda to a gallon of water. If you have trouble locating the washing soda, others have reported success with baking soda. Also household lye will work just fine. It's a tad more nasty -- always wear eye protection and be sure to add the lye to the water (NOT water to lye!!!) The solution is weak, and is not harmful, though you might want to wear gloves. NOTE: It is the current that cleans, not the solution; nothing is gained by making a more concentrated solution -- DON'T!

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm


Here is some pics of the process that I use. There are two ways. This will remove rust and not hurt your paint. Your tank will take 3 days. You will need to change the water and new rod daily. The rinse about 10 times with really hot soap and water.

THEN POR15 TO THERE DERECTIONS. If your tank gets pin holes JB weld will work. Again do not cut any corners with the por15 derections. You need Marine Clean, Metal Ready and the US/Por15 liner. The kit for a tank cost about $43 plust shipping. tHE por15 Tank kit come with patched to patch holes. I have used the POr15 with just useing chains.and sheet rock screws with good results. If you use Kreem I would Electrolysis for sure


http://www.altelco.net/~jacil/clay/motorcycle/KElecSetup.html

NO SMOKING THE SIDE PRUDUCT IS NITROGEN. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DO NOT SEAL THE TANK AT THE CAP. DO NOT SEAL THE TANK AT THE CAP.

I WRAPE MINE WITH BLUE TAPE AND PLASTIC WRAPE TO PROTECT THE PAINT.

 

[bighead]

The reason your bike will not run is the carb. With a tank like that I would bet on it. Willing to bet even more that the petcock valve on your tank is clogged solid. Can you blow thru the gas valve with the gas on?

Have you checked for spark? Have you tried to start with a teaspoon of gas in the spark plug hole? If it starts with some gas then you got a fuel delivery problem.

In this pic have you tried to remove that cap on the end of the valve? I would start there!!!! Remove the Petcock. or make sure it is not clogged.

Then take to bowl off the bottom of the carb and post a pic. I will walk you thru it. But first check for spark then put the carb back on and pore a half teaspoon of gas in the plug hole. Put the plug back on and see if it fires.

 

[bighead]

i wonder if anyone would care when i took my tank into home depot and had my friend that works in the paint place put it on the paint shaker... LOL!

Strap it to the side tines on a rottotiller. Set it on low and watch your tank go around and around.

I watched my old man strap many tanks to a jacked up tractor wheel.

Iike to use sheet rock screws for they are poity and sharp. It seems to get the rust off better when shaking tanks. Do not use larger nuts and bolts for they can dent the tank from the shaking.