kawasaki kd125

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DustinWolfe

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haha i like that idea... entertaining anyway. the electrolosis way seems like it would be better by the descriptions. i just wish there were before and afters.
 

glb7

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Strap it to the side tines on a rottotiller. Set it on low and watch your tank go around and around.

I watched my old man strap many tanks to a jacked up tractor wheel.

ha! thanks for all that bighead, i just wish i had a battery charger like that, i think my auto tech class has a ton, ill ask my teacher on Monday. i should also do this on the exhaust to!!
 

glb7

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The reason your bike will not run is the carb. With a tank like that I would bet on it.

Have you checked for spark? Have you tried to start with a teaspoon of gas in the spark plug hole?

yea it usually turns over when you crank it a lot, but it stops right after a couple throttle pulls...
 

bighead

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doesn't por15 bond to rust?

Por15 will bond to rust. But there chimical call Medal ready turns the rust into zink coating. The Por15 bonds with the zink coating to make a super strong bond. It actually changes the chimical content of the surface for that famous por15 bond.

Same as the other por15 pruducts. If you skip the metal ready part it will not bond right and fail.

I painted a go kart with por15. I can beat it with a hammer and it will not chip. it will dent the frame befor it will chip. This stuff is amazing. I even shot it will a bb gun and no chipping.
 

bighead

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yea it usually turns over when you crank it a lot, but it stops right after a couple throttle pulls...



Okay set the tank aside for now

Make a gas can out of a bottle with a hose. Tape to the frame. Try to start it.

Wont start? Then pull the carb bowl and post a pic. I will show you the jets.

Good chance you will have to boil the carb in lemon juice. You may get by with a jet poke if your lucky. But by looking at your wet rust dust around the petcock i am willing to bet your carb is the same way.

Those are simple carbs and will be snap to clean. Post a pic I want to see where the gas goes into the carb? Is there a filter there as well?

If your asking about lemon juice read this. The acid in the lemon juice attacke aluminum carbs really good. Works better than carb dip and it only take 20 minutes. every nook and cranny is spotless. Toss your petcock in as well.


http://ezinearticles.com/?How-to-Clean-a-Motorcycle-Carburetor,-The-Right-Way&id=1460030
 

bighead

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haha i like that idea... entertaining anyway. the electrolosis way seems like it would be better by the descriptions. i just wish there were before and afters.

Search on your tube. There are many vids on this method. Once the rust is gone just por15. I forgot to add that when your down the process leaves a black coating on the bare metal. You need to rinse with coke cola. It will take it right off and be bare metal. It will flash rust but thats ok if your using por15 for it likes rust. If using kreem start your process right away.
 

bighead

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ha! thanks for all that bighead, i just wish i had a battery charger like that, i think my auto tech class has a ton, ill ask my teacher on Monday. i should also do this on the exhaust to!!

The exhuast is easy to clean with wire wheel. I would not risk getting all the crap inside the pipe. May be hard to rinse out. Just wire wheel or sand blast. Nw I have had them full of two stroke oil and residu. If that the case I just bake it on a camp fire for a hour or so. Let it cool and shake all the black suit out. Mopeds are famous for this.

Yah hillbilly ways but it works. LOL

Here are some bike I restored last year. The moped in the last pic is painted with por15 hardnose paint. I can take a cresant wrench walk up to the seat post and hit it as hard as I can. It will not chip. Maybe a scuff mark. I could soak the gas tank in brake fliud over night and still have a like new paint finish. Gas does not effect it at all. Heck the Hardnose POR15 is used on bulldozer buckets. It takes the abuse and still looks good. POR15 is amazing stuff.

I know some may think I am a por15 dealer. But I cannot get over the fact that I painted a steel bar. Beat the heck out it with mutible blunt objects. And could not effect it in any way. Some scuff marks that rubbed out. Ya amazing stuff.
 

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glb7

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Okay set the tank aside for now

Make a gas can out of a bottle with a hose. Tape to the frame. Try to start it.

Wont start? Then pull the carb bowl and post a pic. I will show you the jets.

Good chance you will have to boil the carb in lemon juice. You may get by with a jet poke if your lucky. But by looking at your wet rust dust around the petcock i am willing to bet your carb is the same way.

Those are simple carbs and will be snap to clean. Post a pic I want to see where the gas goes into the carb? Is there a filter there as well?

If your asking about lemon juice read this. The acid in the lemon juice attacke aluminum carbs really good. Works better than carb dip and it only take 20 minutes. every nook and cranny is spotless. Toss your petcock in as well.


http://ezinearticles.com/?How-to-Clean-a-Motorcycle-Carburetor,-The-Right-Way&id=1460030

this is my project for the day. thanks bighead!

and if you look at the second to last picture, that's the carburetor intake filter thingy, and the fuel line runs right into it. i have looked at the carb before, it looked clean to me, so maybe its clogged inside, ill try what you told me and i will also take pictures.
 

bighead

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this is my project for the day. thanks bighead!

and if you look at the second to last picture, that's the carburetor intake filter thingy, and the fuel line runs right into it. i have looked at the carb before, it looked clean to me, so maybe its clogged inside, ill try what you told me and i will also take pictures.

You are going to have a fuel line and and Oiler line. The line that goes under the seat is maybe to the oil tank for your gas mix. Sometime people disconnect these and just premix the gas. Beware though that some brands you have to use the oiler for they oil the engine bearings as well. Older Yamahas you can just plug and remove. Old Kawasaki you cannot for the oiler pump also oil's the bearing. You would have to drill a hole in the case so they bearing can get oil.

On this Kawi use the oiler.
 

glb7

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so i found out its the carb. so im going to do the lemon boiling stuff. this is what i got, what do i do now, do i take off anything or do i just plunge it right in??







 

Doc Sprocket

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Bighead, that was excellent info on the Electrolytic Rust Removal procedure- I have been meaning to give that a shot on some things. But I do feel the need to correct a minor misunderstanding. You commented that smoking is a bad idea because the process releases Nitrogen. A few facts about nitrogen 1)Nitrogen comprises about 70% of the air that you and I breathe 2)Nitrogen is completely inert. There is nothing you can do to cause it to combust no matter how hard you try 3)Nitrogen is the propellant used in most fire extinguishers, so- If we're willing to blow it all over a fire, you can imagine how flammable it is...

The reality of it is that it is HYDROGEN being released, Not Nitrogen. Hydrogen is an explosive gas. The process releases only small amounts, but it's still not a good idea to push your luck...
 

bighead

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so i found out its the carb. so im going to do the lemon boiling stuff. this is what i got, what do i do now, do i take off anything or do i just plunge it right in??

Take the bowl on the bottom of the carb off. Then slide the pen out that holds the float in place. pay close attensoin for the is a needle seat under the float. They maybe also a small wire thats connects to the flaot. Look for any tiny parts in this step. Sey thos three things aside. Do this over a rag or towl. Your looking for 2 brass jets. They will have a screw driver slot on the top and or a 8mm wrench to get them out.

So take the bowl cover,float pin, float bowl and seat out and post a pic.

When you take the pin out the float the needle seat will come out with the float. Pay close attension to the little brass neddle thingy that connects to the plastic float.


Do this and I will walk you thru the next step. Do not mess with the screws on the outside of the carb yet.

If you cannot wait then take the jets out. You may only need a scwer driver or a screw driver and small wrench. Take the two brass jets out. Make sure you tap the carb upside down. Sometimes the emolsion tube will come out. Other times they are part of the jet. Emolsion tube is a long tube with holes drill into it Looks like a machine gun barrel.

Once those are out put the jet to a light and see if you can see thru them. If not you need to poke them out. Air will not really work on a bad clogged jet. Find some old brake or bike cable and cut about 4 inches or so off the cable. Then take the little strans of the cable apart. These single strans are small and stiff enough to get down the iddle jets. Keep working at for sometimes it is like concrete inside jet. Poke the jets untill you know there clean and can see good light coming thru it.

At this point your jets are now clean. Depending on how your carb looked you may be able to put back and try it after you blow some good air thru all the holes you can find.. If your carb was full or rust sand you will have to boil it in Lemon juice. When putting back togather make sure you hook the needle seat to the float. The flaot moves the needle up and down. That needle seat will connect to the plastic float somehow.

Will get there after you post a pic of under your carb bowl.
 

crazyman

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A white vinegar soak will pull rust from your tank and carb.

If doing the carb, PULL IT AS SOON AS THE VINEGAR STARTS TO DARKEN! If it goes too long, it will eat the aluminum. It took a week for the vinegar to darken when soaking a 6 year sitting rusty quadrajet. Keep an eye on it if you do it. Qjets have a gold coating on them, IIRC, most bike carbs don't...

P.S. do not use vinegar on magnesium, it will make a mess of the Mg, and make hydrogen instantly.
 

bighead

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Bighead, that was excellent info on the Electrolytic Rust Removal procedure- I have been meaning to give that a shot on some things. But I do feel the need to correct a minor misunderstanding. You commented that smoking is a bad idea because the process releases Nitrogen. A few facts about nitrogen 1)Nitrogen comprises about 70% of the air that you and I breathe 2)Nitrogen is completely inert. There is nothing you can do to cause it to combust no matter how hard you try 3)Nitrogen is the propellant used in most fire extinguishers, so- If we're willing to blow it all over a fire, you can imagine how flammable it is...

The reality of it is that it is HYDROGEN being released, Not Nitrogen. Hydrogen is an explosive gas. The process releases only small amounts, but it's still not a good idea to push your luck...

Thanks I always get those mixed up.
 

bighead

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