Kasea ATV's w/ Xingfu engines - what have I gotten myself into?

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jamyers

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Long story short,...

These were bought new by a Law-Enforcement Explorer Post, used (road use) for a couple of years for community events and such. Then the Post folded, and they went out to the Boy Scout Camp where they've sat for 2-3 years in a shed out of the weather. Supposedly they both ran when they went into storage, but the gasoline in them both is now beyond rancid :ack2:

Any ideas or comments on what I'm looking at? I'm hoping that a good carburetor cleaning and new fuel is all they'll need, but...
 

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jamyers

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Also, any idea what model they are, and/or what engine they've got? I'm not seeing any numbers or anything on them...
 

jamyers

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I did find this under the seat, I'm assuming it's a VIN: LAGAKURF721000055 (I think, several digits are hard to read. The only thing an online VIN decoder could tell me was that it's made in China (well, duh!) and it's a 2002 model.

Seriously, ANY info on these would be helpful, I've never worked on one of these before. Best I can tell is that the engine is a GY-6 clone, CVT transmission with reverse gear, hydraulic rear disk brake, cable drum front brakes.
 

qtband

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It's hard to tell the engine size from the pics. Could be anything from a 90cc to 250cc. Don't think it'd be more. Clean the carb and lines and make sure the fuel tank is clean, too. Give it a shot and let us know.
Like the song says "Everybody was Xingfu fighting....
 

jamyers

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Both batteries are dead, so I haven't checked anything electrical yet. My plan is to work on one at a time, dig down to the carb, remove and clean the carb and any other fuel-related items, then fix any little items as I reassemble, checking the ignition somewhere along the line (with a spare car battery I have at first).

Got the body panels off of one, and found some small issues; melted insulation on a wire to the ignition coil, the air-cleaner-to-carb hose is torn apart, and possibly a crack in the intake manifold (made of rubber???).

Next is getting the carb off and apart, then we'll see how funky it it inside.
 

jamyers

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It's hard to tell the engine size from the pics. Could be anything from a 90cc to 250cc. ...
How do you tell displacement - any parts, markings or numbers I should look for?

EDIT: Found it, engine # is located lower left side of crankcase, just aft of the cylinder.

XF157QMJ = Xingfu-made, single-cylinder, 57mm bore, GY6-type engine.

So it's a 150cc, yay! (I guess...)
 

jamyers

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Got a carb off and apart...not too bad, considering.

Bottom view, bowl view with crud on float, side view of insides showing old fuel level, side view with name "Corundum" and "3" casting number...

On the other side of the main body, it's stamped: 125CC0203070298. Is that indicating it's for a 125cc engine, or is that just a carb part number?

I'm off to get me some lemon juice and see how well it works (never used it before).
 

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qtband

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The GY6's are notorious for that intake boot to crack and make it run bad. It should still start and run. I'm betting your next post will be how it drives....
 

jamyers

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Haha, sorry but my next post is going to be more carb pics, lol.

I must say that I'm impressed with lemon juice carb cleaner! Boiled it all for 10-15 minutes, then let hot soak for 30 minutes or so - and shazam! It's nice and clean.

I did have to run some fine soft wire through the jets, especially the enrichment (choke?) jet, it was completely gunked up solid. Man, that's a TINY passage!
 

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jamyers

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Sandpaper. Although according to Briggs&Stratton, rust on the flywheel / magneto has no effect on the ignition (guess magnetic fields ignore rust?).
 

jamyers

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The GY6's are notorious for that intake boot to crack and make it run bad. It should still start and run. I'm betting your next post will be how it drives....

Took a few days, but I got the first one running - WOOT! Had to re-work the wiring harness to fix a previous person's "repairs", and replace a burned wire to the coil. Bypassed the key-switch (don't have a key) and the brake-to-crank safety interlock, and it starts right up and runs like a champ!

One odd thing on the carb, though...it like it best when the idle mix screw is turned all the way in. I took the screw out to double-check the o-ring, gasket, etc, and there's no spring (which I 'remember' putting in). I ran a fine wire w/ hooked end in there, no joy. I tried putting the spring off the other ATV in, but the screw won't go in far enough to catch threads - like there's a spring already in there. But I only see/feel the threads, no spring. Odd... but the engine starts and runs fine with the idle screw all the way in, but I left it 1/4 turn out just in case.
 

bighead

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Took a few days, but I got the first one running - WOOT! Had to re-work the wiring harness to fix a previous person's "repairs", and replace a burned wire to the coil. Bypassed the key-switch (don't have a key) and the brake-to-crank safety interlock, and it starts right up and runs like a champ!

One odd thing on the carb, though...it like it best when the idle mix screw is turned all the way in. I took the screw out to double-check the o-ring, gasket, etc, and there's no spring (which I 'remember' putting in). I ran a fine wire w/ hooked end in there, no joy. I tried putting the spring off the other ATV in, but the screw won't go in far enough to catch threads - like there's a spring already in there. But I only see/feel the threads, no spring. Odd... but the engine starts and runs fine with the idle screw all the way in, but I left it 1/4 turn out just in case.

You have two of these right? See if the other screw is the same?

Yah lemon juice rules. No longer that 20 minutes though. It can start to eat at the fine threads on the carb body where the cap screws onto. The aluminum is really thin there and the juice attacks that first stripping your threads off over time. I read where a guy left it over night and his threads were gone. Do not fret though. It is the best way I know how to clean a carb for sure. It's not even close.....
 
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