Kart Rods

Desertduler · Jan 21, 2015

Can you take a picture of the PTO side of the engine that you want to use the tensioner on? I have an idea that might work.

Kelly Wood · Jan 22, 2015

I don't have a direct photo, but there's 3 obstacles in the way... (artistic value VS functionality... which is backwards mind you...) and http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=19432&page=54 shows a lot of photos, plus there's more in this thread all over the place.

I may have to go the "jack" route but then again, it's just more adjustments to make.

I'll see if I can get some this weekend.

itsid · Jan 22, 2015

I was thinking.. it's hard to machine those clutch sprocket all right, but how hard would it be to WELD them?

Why?,
well in regards to this pic:
View attachment 47822

two perfectly ordinary clutches, right?

Now taking just another sprocket and weld it onto the second clutch to drive the axle..
it might not be as sturdy as a dual sprocket clutch, but you can choose whatever toothcount you had in mind.

Yeah, I know.. it just came to my mind when I saw that pic again...

Anyways,
I think that's the tube you want the chain tensioner for, correct?
what's it's diameter?
Maybe you can find a billet clamp (lamps, speedometer, whatever) from a motorbike that allows you to attach a spring loaded chain roller to it.

'sid

Kelly Wood · Jan 22, 2015

But it's only going to be one engine on this one... now that is.

Assume the rear engine is now not there, the front engine is approx where the clutch will be... and has limited movement forward to rear.

See attached pic 1. That's one possible route the chain could take, but that'd need one tensioner and one roller sprocket somewhere.

Pic 2 is the route I'm going for ultimately, one tensioner on that red bar, pushing DOWN.

Desertduler · Jan 22, 2015

Kelly Wood said:
But it's only going to be one engine on this one... now that is.

Assume the rear engine is now not there, the front engine is approx where the clutch will be... and has limited movement forward to rear.

See attached pic 1. That's one possible route the chain could take, but that'd need one tensioner and one roller sprocket somewhere.

Pic 2 is the route I'm going for ultimately, one tensioner on that red bar, pushing DOWN.

What size is the O.D. of your tubing Kelly?

Kelly Wood · Jan 22, 2015

1"... you got machining tools... wanna make something? I have an idea... and a drawing I won't post here.

itsid · Jan 22, 2015

Hmm..

I don't know if it's rigid enough, but a typical swingarm chain tensioner on a go-pro mount?

that's the go pro mount I'm talking about:

I think that's the 30-35mm version, But IIRC there's a 22-25mm version as well (that might be just big enough to mount to a 1" tube)

'sid

Desertduler · Jan 22, 2015

Kelly Wood said:
1"... you got machining tools... wanna make something? I have an idea... and a drawing I won't post here.

I have an idea too,PM me with what you have in mind and I will run my idea past you.

Kelly Wood · Jan 22, 2015

Cool, thanks. I know you can buy these things but... Making it is more fun.

Desertduler · Jan 23, 2015

Would this work for you? A Honda GX160 con rod with a 5/8 NF bolt through the wrist pin hole in the rod and a sealed ball bearing that if you can find me a 35 sprocket that I could bore out and press on the bearing and if so I will make a split PVC bushing to install in the big end of the rod and then you could just swing the rod on your frame tubing and set your chain as tight as you needed it and tighten down the rod bolts and I could tap out the oil hole if need be and put a set screw in it so there would be extra clamping force to keep the rod from slipping on the frame tubing and the set screw would go up against the PVC plastic so that it would not bugger up your frame rail. A spring loaded tensioner may put too much load on the clutch bearing depending on the tension of a spring and wear it out prematurely, you want a little play in your chain. And looking at your drawing of your chain routing I would run the chain above the frame rail so you could just swing the rod upwards and that would tighten the chain to where you have more sprocket teeth engaged in the chain and be done with it. Just a suggestion.

Kelly Wood · Jan 23, 2015

Gnarley. Totally cool idea.

I don't have any little #35 gears but I do have numerous Noram Clutch drives/drums I don't use. If one of these was introduced, they have needle/roller bearings pressed into them. The ID is larger than 5/8 but shouldn't be a problem. What's the ID of the wrist pin hole?

Shave off the drum portion leaving just the gear and it might be a bolt on solution, period!

Route Like picture 1?

Lovely.

itsid · Jan 23, 2015

THAT MUST work.. it's too cool for it to not work :thumbsup:

Bret

I love it..

Bret, how about a split LDPE bushing instead?
and some locking collars to prevent lateral movement,
then a 'pulling' spring on the end of the dipstick....
maybe with several small grooves or holes to adjust the lever (and tension)

'sid

Desertduler · Jan 23, 2015

Kelly Wood said:
Gnarley. Totally cool idea.

I don't have any little #35 gears but I do have numerous Noram Clutch drives/drums I don't use. If one of these was introduced, they have needle/roller bearings pressed into them. The ID is larger than 5/8 but shouldn't be a problem. What's the ID of the wrist pin hole?

Shave off the drum portion leaving just the gear and it might be a bolt on solution, period!

Lovely.

I can adapt to whatever, I might even have a wrist pin laying around some where that we could use for a inner race for those needle bearings to ride on and it would be hard enough to hold up, but it would be better if we could find a 35 flat sprocket and bore it to press fit the bearing, that would be the most durable set up.

Desertduler · Jan 23, 2015

itsid said:
THAT MUST work.. it's too cool for it to not work Bret

I love it..

'sid

Desertduler · Jan 23, 2015

Motion Industries used to have all kinds of them that I have machined before.

Kelly Wood · Jan 23, 2015

Desertduler said:
I can adapt to whatever, I might even have a wrist pin laying around some where that we could use for a inner race for those needle bearings to ride on and it would be hard enough to hold up, but it would be better if we could find a 35 flat sprocket and bore it to press fit the bearing, that would be the most durable set up.

Understood, but the sprocket I'd have to find will have to be small, there's not tons of room here.

Desertduler · Jan 23, 2015

itsid said:
THAT MUST work.. it's too cool for it to not work Bret

I love it..

Bret, how about a split LDPE bushing instead?
and some locking collars to prevent lateral movement,
then a 'pulling' spring on the end of the dipstick....

'sid

That would work, but I have tons of pvc and I have another simple way to prevent lateral movement.

Desertduler · Jan 23, 2015

Kelly Wood said:
Understood, but the sprocket I'd have to find will have to be small, there's not tons of room here.

They have as small as can be made in diameter. This sealed bearing is 1 3/8 O.D.

Kelly Wood · Jan 23, 2015

I love you guys. This will look sweet... and that will nicely compliment the other aluminum thingy I've got back there... the one holding the rudders.

yea.

*sigh of relief... nap time.

itsid · Jan 23, 2015

idler sprockets...

http://www.martinsprocket.com/docs/default-source/catalog-sprockets/idler-sprockets.pdf?sfvrsn=8

Oh in case you missed my edit..
allow me to ask again..

Bret, how about a split LDPE bushing instead?
and some locking collars to prevent lateral movement,
then a 'pulling' spring on the end of the dipstick....
maybe with several small grooves or holes to adjust the lever (and tension)

'sid

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