I need help

[KartFab]

2 stroke toro trimmer
Was running ok then quit. Felt like it wasn’t revving out all the way.
Would not restart.

Put in fresh fuel would not start
Carb cleaner sprayed directly in throttle body. Nothing
Spark plug grounded and pulled could see spark
Replaced spark plug would not start
Compression check shows ~130-150 PSI.

Has compression, fuel, spark. Won’t start.

I’m stumped.

 

[950speed]

I know lots of trimmers have the safety mechanisms I’ve had the issue before that one of the wires came loose due to vibrations

 

[Dingocat]

Had one that it was getting compression but the cylinder was loose and was getting air in it.

 

[karl]

Is the muffler screen plugged up?

Also I usually do a loaded spark test, with a spark tester at least 3/16 gap ( not a lightup tester, the point is to test the voltage of the spark), passing through the plug under compression.

Fresh fuel?

 

[itsid]

strange.. but not unseen..

since it's a rather small (35-40cc?) industrial two stroke,
I'm fairly certain exhaust isn't at all a problem;
that thing really doesn't have any resonator pipe to speak of.
You still want to make sure it's properly attached (every little bit of backpressure helps).

leaves me with side air or a valve issue

Well....
I wouldn't rule out an ignition problem either tbh..
I was mocked by a plug before
(plug sparking OUTSIDE the cylinder head, but not installed,
due to the boot being loose or the cable being weirdly cracked
[changed both can't tell what did the trick])

so if you can find a lightup spark plug boot and install that for a minute,
it actually can help testing for such weird no-spark conditions.

I think a mower tach should also reveal if the plug actually fires when installed or not,
since I'd say you more likely have one of those laying around somewhere,
maybe give that a try first just to be sure.

IDK if the small toros have a reed valve or are simple piston port engines.
if it has a reed valve, check for broken fins first

can easily be done by removing the air filter
and putting a piece of tissue paper in front of the intake...
if you see moving air backwards through the carb that'll surely be your issue
(at least part of it )
unfortunately a piston port has a bit of air moving out the carb by design,
so that only works reliably if you know it's a reed valve engine

'sid

 

[Randy H]

I call clogged spark arrestor screen.

 

[rwd4evr]

Could be timing. It could have sheard the key if it even has one, some are just wedged. Either way try to look at the flywheel magnet passing the magneto and top dead center with a pen or wooden dowel in the spark plug hole.

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[LawnCrawler]

I had an Echo leaf blower that ran perfectly for 7 years of hard service and one day it started losing power, then shut off. I found that the flywheel nut had loosened enough to allow the flywheel to rotate on the un-keyed tapered shaft. I tightened it up and it wouldn't start so I brought to TDC, reset the flywheel position and it fired right up

 

[J.S.@SMS]

I'd say pull apart the carb. That's likely where the problem is. In my experience there is a fine mesh screen in the carburetor at the very beginning of the fuel flow, but you have to disassemble it a bit to get to it. I had a chainsaw a guy from work asked me to look at because it wasn't running and when it did it wouldn't rev out. The little screen I mentioned was clogged, and it wasn't getting enough fuel, what is what it sounds like is happening to yours. It could also be the diaphragm. If it has sat for a while the diaphragms might have hardened and or cracked, causing improper fuel metering (like a bad needle and seat or float in a float carb). So I'd check those as well.

 

[itsid]

I like the flywheel theory! (sheared key or loose nut)

I mean this is Grant you're talking to..
carbissues.. it's almost an insult to suggest he hadn't thought of that first

Sure woods and trees and such, but still...
I reject to believe Grant hasn't properly checked the carb in question twice before asking here.

'sid

 

[KartFab]

All i can say at this point is that I should have bought an echo trimmer. Ill try some more diagnostic stuff, but at this point one of my diagnostic tests Im thinking involves throwing it off my roof or using a sledge hammer on it.

I took the carb off and put fresh oil/gas mix in it and didnt even turn over. Carb issue was the #1 thing checked, then fuel, then spark, then compression as a last resort. ITs got fuel, its got spark, its got compression, just wont turn over. Has a good "feel" to the pull, so probably the next two things ill check are the exhaust and timing if its not exhaust.

 

[Randy H]

Before you smash it, have you tried calling it someone that performs fellatio? I usually try that first, then say a secret chant complete with some voodoo finger action.

If that didn't help, which it won't, and it isn't exhaust or timing. Two strokes can have good compression, but have bad crank seals, leak down test would show that. Just a thought.

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

We have 2 Echo GT-225s, and they have given us years of business service without even needing a tune up. They start just as readily as they did when new!
Main problem is that the head can get jammed sometimes.
I would absolutely recommend an Echo trimmer. Or chainsaw, our chainsaw is still running strong.

 

[950speed]

What do you mean by the head gets jammed

 

[rwd4evr]

What do you mean by the head gets jammed

String trimmer head I would guess.

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[pearl111]

My weed eater quit working this summer. I found a small crack in the fuel line it was sucking air. After changing the fuel line it started right up and has been running great. Check hoses for cracks or cuts.

 

[Smerft85]

I didn't see it mentioned above, but a lot of those small 2 strokes have a small hose and a filter hanging inside the fuel tank, 90% of my issues have been that line breaking inside the tank, and it's usually the last thing I check for some reason.

 

[BigWes]

Should be ported, not reeds. I would put a brand new plug in it first just to rule it out.

If it won't run after that look on eBay and buy one of the cheap replacement carb kits for it. Should be able to get one for less than 20 bucks. Get one that has the carb, the new plug, air filters, fuel line, fuel filter and new gaskets. Replace it all for less than 20 bucks and be done with it and free shipping in less than a week. Get it all without the hassle of trying to find the right diaphragm for that little carb that's leaking. I just replaced 3. Trust me. I got one for 12 bucks.

 

[rwd4evr]

Should be ported, not reeds. I would put a brand new plug in it first just to rule it out.

If it won't run after that look on eBay and buy one of the cheap replacement carb kits for it. Should be able to get one for less than 20 bucks. Get one that has the carb, the new plug, air filters, fuel line, fuel filter and new gaskets. Replace it all for less than 20 bucks and be done with it and free shipping in less than a week. Get it all without the hassle of trying to find the right diaphragm for that little carb that's leaking. I just replaced 3. Trust me. I got one for 12 bucks.

Carb kit/fuel pump diaphragm won't do squats if the timing is off. It won't fire with fuel down the throat, it's got spark and the exhaust isn't plugged(I think he checked) so it's got a massive air leak in the crank case or timing is off. It would still sputter with a massive air leak.

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[KartFab]

Ok guys here’s an update. After letting it sit for a week I started it on the 2nd pull. Gremlins I guess.