How to remove a sled motor and transplant it?

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mysteryboy28

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Just bought an 85 yamaha Phazer 480 to pull the motor out of and install in my buggy. Don't have the first clue about how to remove the motor, with the clutches and gearbox and everything else needed, intact from the sled. I've been told (or read somewhere) that its best to use the whole chassis in the engine compartment, so that everything lines up and mounts properly.

If someone can point me in the right direction, links to videos or other people's projects with in-depth details and pictures - I'd REALLY appreciate it!

I'm sure I'd eventually be able to figure it out (after doing it the wrong way, lol), but it would be so much nicer to do it right the first time!

Thanks.
 

bighead

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Just bought an 85 yamaha Phazer 480 to pull the motor out of and install in my buggy. Don't have the first clue about how to remove the motor, with the clutches and gearbox and everything else needed, intact from the sled. I've been told (or read somewhere) that its best to use the whole chassis in the engine compartment, so that everything lines up and mounts properly.

If someone can point me in the right direction, links to videos or other people's projects with in-depth details and pictures - I'd REALLY appreciate it!

I'm sure I'd eventually be able to figure it out (after doing it the wrong way, lol), but it would be so much nicer to do it right the first time!

Thanks.

I call it the style killdozer style

This is killdozers kart. He cut the whole body from the sled and welded it into his kart. This way there is no work on the clutches and belt. Used all the sleds belt guards as well.

They only thing I would do different is put the brake on the real axle. If he broke the chain in the case he would lose his sleds brakes. Then use the sleds brake for parking brake.

This as about as simple as you can get. He just had to machine down the sleds track drive. You know the jackshaft that turns the track.

I fought my sled conversion ody getting the belts and clutches right. This method takes all that work out. No making motor mounts or anything. Just line it up and it will perform just like it did in the sled for you changed nothing. The best part is it really clean looking. Also lets you play with gearing along with sled power. IMO it's as bullet proof as you can get. And it a rear style setup so swing arm style suspension would be a snap as well.

Does your buggy have rear suspension?

Hope this helps
 

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bighead

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If you have suspension and not doing it killdozer style I have some pics how to line up the clutches. Your going to want to measure the center to center on your sleds clutches before you tear it apart. The center to center will be key to set it up right with original belt.

Here are the pics.

Just make a bar like this with your center to center distance. When this bar slides freely on both shafts you got it lined up spot on. At this point make you motor mounts. In these pics the engine was hangin from rope.

This is a good way to get your center to center and line up perfect with no headach belt problems.
 

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mysteryboy28

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I should have clarified in my posting that i was aware of killdozers kart, and had seen the pictures of it. What i had not seen was how he got the motor out of the sled. There has to be some basic instruction on the proper way to remove the motor (killdozer style), so that i dont waste a day or 2 putting it all back together.
 

Doc Sprocket

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Does it not just unbolt off some mounts? I can't see any solution other than taking it off (apart) and cutting the chassis off as stated above.
 

fowler

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either cut out the frame sections

or strip it and re assemble

u may be surprized what u find
better to find it now than when u have it together and running

i do like the second method of bigheads
useing the engine frame and carrier as one will be clumbersome

a sled is low and very long where a buggy can be taller but the engine area is limited
so u may not want the clutches in exactly the same place
 

qtband

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Remove the exhaust and all wiring taking note of which ones you'll re-use (ie: CDI wiring). Unbolt the motor mounts and remove the engine as a complete assembly Remove the bottom drive axle, the one that drives the track, and then remove the entire drive assembly with the clutches intact. That's usually when I powerwash the frame. Then I get out the sawzall with good blades and a rotozip and start cutting off the frame section that I want to use. Just make sure you don't cut the engine mounts and clutch mounts. Should take you about 2 hours. get someone to help lift the engine.
 

mysteryboy28

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Yes! Thanks for the sound advice. As for the jackshaft, it appears that i will have to have the shaft coming out of the gearbox turned down on one end to accomodate a pillow block bearing and sprocket. With 56hp, do you think a 3/4" bore #41 11t sprocket and #41 chain will hold up? Please say yes, lol. I already have those. I already believe they wont hold up... do i need like #530 chain and sprocket or something similar?
 

qtband

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Sorry to say, they will not hold up to that kind of hp. Believe me, I learned this lesson all ready. I worked my way up to a 520 motorcycle chain, so you need at least that. I also had trouble with the end of the sled jackshaft. I ended up using the hub of the sled drive sprocket and having a motorcycle front sprocket welded to it. The splines on the original hub are important with all that torque. I tried a few different ways with no success, however, this solution worked for me.

In the attached picture, you can see the original sprocket behind the welded one with the yellow chain. It matches the kart :)
 

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mysteryboy28

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not going to be able to mount the motor like i had hoped. the frame of the snowmobile wasn't removable - it was like part of the body. so i hacked off the secondary clutch shaft and the "jackshaft", and now i have to figure out how to mount everything. motor has 3 mounts, secondary shaft has 4 bolts by the clutch, and then the chain case holds the other side (4 bolts hold the chain case on, way at the bottom of it). probably going to have to have the jackshaft milled to accomodate a sprocket and to fit into some pillow block bearings. then i have to figure out what do do for an axle sprocket.

my axle is only 1", but im hoping it'll do, as long as i keep the sprocket by the bearing.

talk about pain in my a$$!
 

fowler

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I wouldn't hold much hope for an inch shaft

I assume it's keyed as well
This motor will just rip that key out pretty quick

U will want a splined shaft
 

qtband

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The sled frame is all one piece. That's why you needed to use a sawzall and rotozip to cut it out. If you can still cut it out, do it. It will save you all kinds of trouble. I attached a picture of what my sled mount looks like. The motor mounts are in the red circle and the secondary clutch assembly mounts are in the yellow circle. This frame section is easy to work with and mount in the kart. No wrestling with a heavy engine. Once the section is lined up and welded where you want it, then the engine can go in quite easily.
As for the 1" keyed axle, I've been running mine that way for 8 months with no issues. Kawasaki 440.
 

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crashed1prox

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I am doing the same thing right now! I took these pics as a joke and kept sending them to my little brother because he loves older snowmobiles!lololol I have a ton more pics that I took with a good camera not my phone!
 

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crashed1prox

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Here are some more
 

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mysteryboy28

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actually your pics helped me a lot. similar to how my sled is set up. although you did a pretty clean job of cutting the frame out, it doesn't look like something i'd want to throw on a production buggy (this is my prototype buggy, it's gotta look GOOD!).

killdozers pics made it all look so neat and simple! but his sled was designed WAAAAAY different than mine.

i'm just gonna have to get good at making jackshafts. i've already made 2, made my own keyed shaft a few times. i do think however that i'll need to get the hex shaped rod milled down to a something i can fit into some common sized bearings. i gotta use it though, because it has the splined end that fits into the chain case, which gives me my required gear reduction. i don't want to go 300 mph at the blink of a week. lol.
 

qtband

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Use the frame or you"ll probably end up buying a couple of $40 belts until you get the spacing correct!!!!
 
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