that’s it I’m thinking... I have an 8hp and when I first set it up I kept it governed. and even after messing with the gov rod/linkage it was laughable.
Damn. So it looks like a governor bypass with upgraded parts?
I've never thought about that, very cool.
if you have spare cash get a predator. Or build a flatty.. if you go with a flatly weld your own camshaft or buy one from the forum. If you go with the predator I think it’s like a $190 kit with cam and EVERYTHING else.
I've been running it for some time completely ungoverned with absolutely no upgraded parts. I'm kinda just waiting for it to blow as it only makes 60psi compression, and I figure the cylinder is all worn out. Don't really see a point in spending money on it if it's making low compression.
Wait are you saying it's supposed to make 60 when I pull the rope?
Yes with a compression tester installed pulling the rope the engine will make 60psi.. once it is actually running that compression release “moves out of the way” and your engine has normal compression for running.
Well damn, maybe I shouldn't blow it up then. Where would this compression release be? It is an ancient briggs
Compression releases are usually on the camshaft. If it has one you can normally spin it up fast enough to disengage it. Though if i remember correctly these B&S flatties have no compression release, just low compression.
Yupp it would be a small third lobe directly on the base circle of the camshaft. Even when the engine is running the compression release bump is bleeding a small amount of compression off. people say to file the bump off and it will improve idle. But you have to follow a certain procedure for starting so the cord doesn’t rip out of your hand. Modern engine compression releases move out of the way.. any engines with the compression release lobe on the cam bleed compression to some extent when running at any rpm..
Yeah, I have a 4 stroke chainsaw where the rope will basically rip out your hand at the speed of light lol. I'll have to look into this compression release, thanks for the info guys.
That cam looks perfect and there is nothing that needs done. If your looking for any easy bolt on compression you would be going to eBay or I believe Dynocams/arc and buy a copper head gasket that is thinner then the super super thick stock ones. Do not file of the compression release bump off! Instead roll the engine over until the piston is 1/4 down in the bore after tdc compression stroke and check the valve lash. Almost always zero gap on The one valve. a 6though feeler gauge will always fit snug for the intake valve gap. When you try to Check the exhaust at 9thou it just will not fit. I’ve seen them at a snug 2thou makes them start like garbage if the valves are not set to 6int 9exh
I just bought a copper gasket, thanks for the tip.