homemade key cutting

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TravisD

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hey guys, i wanna make my own hubs and sproket holders from scratch yea, easy enough, but how would i cut a key way into theses homemade peices so they dont slide on my rear axle,

any ideas are welcome,

and NO i dont wanna weld them on!
 

modelengineer

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I paid an engineering workshop $8 per hub to put keyways in it. Internal keyways are extremely difficult to do without a slotter or shaper (or a set of broaches).
 

theo

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Is there a reason why you would want to build your own hubs?? It can't be cost.

theo
 

TravisD

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well mostly because of were i am and i cant seem to find the right ones, i seem to really have trouble with wheels and stuff, i have some atv wheels sitting around and wanted to use them but i have no hubs and cant find them!!! and if i do there not for this axle and have drum brakes (wich i dont want) and i thought it would be differnt to make my own
 

theo

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you can get industrial hubs that work and fit 1" axles. Check your tractor or bearing retailer.

theo
 

jr dragster T

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Lol, I was wondering for a while how my local machine shop got the keyway into the clutch post's on my dragster. He told me how its done just recently lol.
 

eesakiwi

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Theres a idea called a 'Scotch keyway'.
I can't find anything about it using Google.

I guess its about Scotch people being cheap or very versitile.
Its only gonna work on the ends of the axles, sorry.

You fit the hub onto the shaft with the end of the axle flush with the hub.
Now get your drill & drill a hole inline with the axle, 1/2 the hole should be in the axle, the other 1/2 should be in the hub. (length wise, had to describe, looking down the hole 1 side should be in the axle, the other side should be in the hub.)
Now get a Tap & tap out the hole & then screw in a bolt or such into the tapped hole, use Loctite on the thread.

That should couple them together.
Depending on the size of the shaft etc depends on what size of bolt you will need.
 

TerryOlson

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Are you describing a pin? In other words, a hole through the collar on the hub leading into the axle so the bolt goes through the hub collar and into the axle? If so, you could continue through the axle and also the hub collar on the other side of the axle. Then you can just use a bolt and nut rather than having to tap anything - but it all depends on how much room you have to work with on the hub collar.

Axle material is very hard so drilling through it with basic garage tools might be the biggest problem.
 

greasemonkey85

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i dont know about being hard, on the racing karts we drill a hole through the axle which is 1 1/4 hollow and then put cap head screws through that hole instead of using set screws on the bearings. holds the axle side to side and still lets the chassis flex.
 

robin

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i have cut internal keyways with a hack saw i put 4 blades on at once and went slow you could always cut both sded and chisle it out with a mettle chisle
 

oscaryu1

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Are you describing a pin? In other words, a hole through the collar on the hub leading into the axle so the bolt goes through the hub collar and into the axle? If so, you could continue through the axle and also the hub collar on the other side of the axle. Then you can just use a bolt and nut rather than having to tap anything - but it all depends on how much room you have to work with on the hub collar.

Axle material is very hard so drilling through it with basic garage tools might be the biggest problem.

I drilled through my solid 1" axle, and two hubs (completely through on both sides) with a $15 drill and a drill bit from a $4 kit I got from HEB.

Yes... no cutting fluid either. Took about 5 minutes total. 4 minutes of patience on one side. 1 minute of sitting on it to hurry things up on the other side.

And the bit still worked fine!
 

TerryOlson

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OK then - I had to cut a buggy apart, axle included, and I found it to be very hard on sawzall blades and grinder wheels - but they're made for thinnner material than that.
 

eesakiwi

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Quote {re you describing a pin? In other words, a hole through the collar on the hub leading into the axle so the bolt goes through the hub collar and into the axle? If so, you could continue through the axle and also the hub collar on the other side of the axle. Then you can just use a bolt and nut rather than having to tap anything - but it all depends on how much room you have to work with on the hub collar.} end quote

Nah, thats 90 deg to the shaft, I know what you mean though.
I don't like that idea because it weakens the shaft a bit too much.
ie, if its gonna break, thats where its gonna break...

I mean to drill the hole 'Inline with the shaft'.
In the same position as the proper keyway would be.
1/2 the hole (lengthwise) in the shaft, 1/2 in the wheels rims collar/boss.
Then tap it out & screw in a long grubscrew (it won't protude out the end of the axle.) covered with Loctite (or nail polish!)

Theres an advantage if you use a small dia screw, if it dosn't work you can still put in a keyway where the tapped out hole is.

Though its very hard to keep a drilled hole in line with the axle when you drill it out.

Worst gets to the worst, you can file/hacksaw/chisel the hole out so it will fit a proper keyway key later on.

Bit of a warning.
If the scotch key gets loose it will slog out pretty quickly.

Putting a keyway into a shaft is a quick job if the machine shop is set up to do it.
Putting a keyway in a boss takes a bit of setting up, it can go wrong very quickly, & its hard to fix up too.

I used to work in a machine shop & could put a keyway in a shaft in less than 15 mins, start to finish, bolting on the vise, setting up the cutter etc.
It peeved the Manager off a bit, how could he charge for 1/2 a hour when I did it in less than 15 mins?
I think they smeared the time over to the keywaying the pully out or such.
 

eesakiwi

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Quote {re you describing a pin? In other words, a hole through the collar on the hub leading into the axle so the bolt goes through the hub collar and into the axle? If so, you could continue through the axle and also the hub collar on the other side of the axle. Then you can just use a bolt and nut rather than having to tap anything - but it all depends on how much room you have to work with on the hub collar.} end quote

Nah, thats 90 deg to the shaft, I know what you mean though.
I don't like that idea because it weakens the shaft a bit too much.
ie, if its gonna break, thats where its gonna break...

I mean to drill the hole 'Inline with the shaft'.
In the same position as the proper keyway would be.
1/2 the hole (lengthwise) in the shaft, 1/2 in the wheels rims collar/boss.
Then tap it out & screw in a long grubscrew (it won't protude out the end of the axle.) covered with Loctite (or nail polish!)

Theres an advantage if you use a small dia screw, if it dosn't work you can still put in a keyway where the tapped out hole is.

Though its **** hard to keep a drilled hole in line with the axle when you drill it out.

Worst gets to the worst, you can file/hacksaw/chisel the hole out so it will fit a proper keyway key later on.

Bit of a warning.
If the scotch key gets loose it will slog out pretty quickly.

Putting a keyway into a shaft is a quick job if the machine shop is set up to do it.
Putting a keyway in a boss takes a bit of setting up, it can go wrong very quickly, & its hard to fix up too.

I used to work in a machine shop & could put a keyway in a shaft in less than 15 mins, start to finish, bolting on the vise, setting up the cutter etc.
It peeved the Manager off a bit, how could he charge for 1/2 a hour when I did it in less than 15 mins?
I think they smeared the time over to the keywaying the pully out or such.

I just found out, if I google 'Scotch keyway'. This thread is the first to come up!
I know I never invented it though.
 

porsche930dude

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that scotch keyway is an intresting idea but i dont think it would work so good for wheels. Too much force on them in all directions i cant see it lasting too long. Also iv drilled straight through many 3/4" axles to bolt stuff on but iv also had one break where i drilled it and grade 8 bolts seem to snap off occationally. On my one cart i threw some 16d galvanized twist nails in to hold the wheels on and they hold up better than the grade 8 bolts! any ideas what would work better there some kind of pin maby?
 

eesakiwi

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