Hi, new to the site

[Timtreo]

Just want to say hi. I have been looking around the site for a couple of days and I really like what you guys have going on here! I am starting my first go kart project. I bought a frame very cheap and I got a wrecked 2011 250 Kawasaki Ninja motor also pretty cheap. I just ordered a mig wire feed welder (don't know how to use it yet). I also ordered two new front knobby tires, the rear tires on it are in good shape. Also ordered a bunch of cables and levers, I plan on making paddle shifters on the stearing wheel.
The frame is ridgid now but I would like to make it front and rear suspention. Hopefully I can figure it all out with your guys help. Tim

PS - Is there a preferred way to resize pictures on here?

 

[bighead]

Nice project you got going. keep us updated.

Thats going to be one fast kart. Are you sure your game?

 

[Nodroz]

Wow! Can't wait to see more of it.
Welcome to the forum!

 

[Filipe]

Looks just like a Dingo

 

[Timtreo]

Hey thanks guys, could you guys point me to a thread on how to go about doing suspension? I'm thinking the A arm type for the front, but not sure how to do it or if that's the best way. I'm not sure what to do with the rear. I want to keep it kind of simple back there. I think it's a live axel, I think that means the whole axel turns? Are these pictures too big? I don't know how to rezise them on here. Thank so much for the welcome guys. Tim

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=23877&stc=1&d=1341856416

 

[OzFab]

Hey thanks guys, could you guys point me to a thread on how to go about doing suspension?

Just search for suspension, you sould find heaps

I'm thinking the A arm type for the front, but not sure how to do it or if that's the best way. I'm not sure what to do with the rear. I want to keep it kind of simple back there.

An A arm front will probably require rebuilding the front of the kart, you may have a bit of trouble with that; you'll see what I mean when you see a few A arm setups. Don't get me wrong, if you really want to do it then go ahead, just think it through.

As for the rear, that's a lot easier. A swing arm setup is easy to create with a bit of fabricating skill.

I think it's a live axel, I think that means the whole axel turns?

Technically, no. That big chunk the sprocket is connected to is a diff. It contains gears which allow the two ends to turn separately (unless thay've been welded up).

Are these pictures too big?

Too big, the bigger the better

 

[Timtreo]

Thanks for the response Fabroman. I just took a quick search of "suspension" and it looks like I'll have to sift through it all to find what I'm going to do. Any suggestions on what type might be good for this frame on the front end?
Also I just cancelled my welder order. I had ordered a refurbished Campbell Hausfeld WG2160 Mig / Flux Core Wire Feed Welder but looking closer at the fine print today I saw that it didn't come with any cables or torch gun or anything. I'm still looking at the new full price one that comes with everything but now I'm not sure 70Amps is going to be enough after reading some welding threads on here. Any suggestions on where to get a decent quality dual mig/flux welder with at least 100Amps for around $300-$350?

 

[redsox985]

As for your welder, look for one on Craigslist. For example, I browsed my local CL:

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/3098265999.html
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/3119167936.html
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/3062773172.html

Anyways, you can probably get a MIG set up with the bottle of gas within your price range. I would recommend solid wire with gas over flux core.

As for suspension, [ulr=http://diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=8508]here[/url] is a thread from a while back where we discuss some rear suspension, but there are other methods. There's independent, swing arm, panhard bar, and something I forget the name of where the entire rear end rides on a heim joint. I think BMan may have done this semi-recently?

 

[Timtreo]

Hey thanks for that thread redsox, I'll give it a good read when I get some time later tonight. I ended up ordering this welder http://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-125WF...qid=1341949958&sr=8-3&keywords=hot+max+welder
I did look on CL but not much in my price range in my area. I wanted to get something with a warranty also. There's not much review on this welder so I hope it will not be junk. It looks like it comes with everything ready for mig and flux welding(except the gas). After I learn how to use it I'll post a review on it(although my review won't mean much because I am very inexperienced with welders). At least it has 125Amps (if that's true...).

 

[OzFab]

It looks the part but, it's says "gas ready" but does it run gasless. You do realise that you will probably also need a gas bottle, regulator & gas lines to run this machine, which could cost as much as the welder itself. You may be better off looking at something like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/mig-flux-welders.html

 

[Timtreo]

This is the description if you scroll down on that link.

The Hot Max 125WFG MIG Welder comes ready to weld with or without shielding gas. Welds up to ¼” mild steel, stainless steel, and aluminum. This portable MIG welder operates on 120 Volt single phase power (standard household power) so you can use it almost anywhere. Other machines require costly MIG conversion kits, but our machine is fully MIG ready and includes an Argon/CO2 regulator and hose. One special feature is that our machines have infinitely adjustable wire feed AND Voltage Control which both can be adjusted while you weld! No cumbersome selector switches that limit your voltage settings to a few choices. The Hot Max MIG welders are also factory pre-wired for the optional Hot Max SPG spool gun – no conversion kits where you need to rewire the machine to get the spool gun to work. The Hot Max MIG welder easily switches polarity so switching between gas welding and flux core welding is a snap. The ground clamp and MIG gun are easily removed which makes our machine easy to move from one location to another. Wire is electrically “cold” when you are not welding and machine has thermal overload protection. Includes 125 Amp MIG welder, ground clamp with 9’ cable, MIG gun with 10’ hose, Argon/CO2 regulator and 5’ gas hose, 2# spool of .030” flux core wire, .025” & .030” & .035” contact tips, gas nozzle for gun, 10# spool adapter, and driver roller that fits .025” to .035” wire (drive wheel for larger wire also available separately). Shielding gas is not included.

Does it look ok? Is it worded funny to try to fool people or anything?. Being new to welding I would not know. Any advise is appreciated. It did not ship today so I might still be able to cancel the order.

 

[redsox985]

In my opinion, a used Lincoln, Miller, etc. is better than some China brand new welder. Parts are abundant and easy to get, but usually only "disposables" (tips, liners, etc.) are needed as they're built much better.

 

[bighead]

If you sale that axle give me dibs on it. I think your bike engine will explode that differential so you should sale it to me. I will give you a fair offer for it.

Been looking for long time now for someone to try the Odyssey FL250 J-arms front suspension on a kart. I got the parts for cheap and it's simple enough.

Also find out the HP rating of that differential???? And figure out what your going to use for brakes. Your going to need some good ones. Your looking at a magor project. I wish you the best of luck and would love to see it done right. I also really like your karts cage style. It's slick. With all that being said I almost want to talk you out of it. But do not want to be the guy to rain on the parade.

When you get a chance can you post pic of your steering wheel? I would like to check it out more. Kind of cool looking.

 

[bighead]

In my opinion, a used Lincoln, Miller, etc. is better than some China brand new welder. Parts are abundant and easy to get, but usually only "disposables" (tips, liners, etc.) are needed as they're built much better.

He could have got close to brand new Lincoln.

Although I do not know a thing about Hotmax. They are priced the same or more than name brand ones though. To be honest this is the first time I seen them.

 

[bighead]

This is the description if you scroll down on that link.

The Hot Max 125WFG MIG Welder comes ready to weld with or without shielding gas. Welds up to ¼” mild steel, stainless steel, and aluminum. This portable MIG welder operates on 120 Volt single phase power (standard household power) so you can use it almost anywhere. Other machines require costly MIG conversion kits, but our machine is fully MIG ready and includes an Argon/CO2 regulator and hose. One special feature is that our machines have infinitely adjustable wire feed AND Voltage Control which both can be adjusted while you weld! No cumbersome selector switches that limit your voltage settings to a few choices. The Hot Max MIG welders are also factory pre-wired for the optional Hot Max SPG spool gun – no conversion kits where you need to rewire the machine to get the spool gun to work. The Hot Max MIG welder easily switches polarity so switching between gas welding and flux core welding is a snap. The ground clamp and MIG gun are easily removed which makes our machine easy to move from one location to another. Wire is electrically “cold” when you are not welding and machine has thermal overload protection. Includes 125 Amp MIG welder, ground clamp with 9’ cable, MIG gun with 10’ hose, Argon/CO2 regulator and 5’ gas hose, 2# spool of .030” flux core wire, .025” & .030” & .035” contact tips, gas nozzle for gun, 10# spool adapter, and driver roller that fits .025” to .035” wire (drive wheel for larger wire also available separately). Shielding gas is not included.

Does it look ok? Is it worded funny to try to fool people or anything?. Being new to welding I would not know. Any advise is appreciated. It did not ship today so I might still be able to cancel the order.

What is the duty cycle of this welder?

 

[Timtreo]

@ redsocks - Yeah I know it's kind of a gamble but it does have a two year warranty and thier catalog seems like they are bigger than some rinky dink company http://www.hotmaxtorches.com/ although I've never heard of them. If it looks like it comes with everything I should need to get started with mig/flux welding (except gas) to you guys I'll give it a shot... Also for that price it does come with a regulator and hose. And the Lincoln welders at that price are only around 80Amps. I'll see I guess.

@bighead - The differential is welded, both wheels turn the same way along with the whole axle. Where did you get the deal on those J arms? Or are you selling those? I think that might work for me. From what I can tell from the pics it looks like maybe I could reverse the way they are mounted on yours (stick the shocks in the front) so I wouldn't have to build the front of the kart out forward so much... maybe??? As for the brakes I ordered a brake disc + hub for the axle and mechanical brake caliper with a weld on mounting bracket. Also ordered 4 shocks and brackets.

 

[Timtreo]

The specs say -
Output: 30-175 Amps DC
Minimum Duty Cycle: 20%

Does that even make any sense? Isn't it supposed to be **Amps@20% ?

EDIT - Hold on I was looking at the wrong one...

Hot Max 125
Output: 25-125 Amps DC
Minimum Duty Cycle 20%
Welds up to 1/4" with flux core wire

Does this make any sense?

 

[bighead]

@ redsocks - Yeah I know it's kind of a gamble but it does have a two year warranty and thier catalog seems like they are bigger than some rinky dink company http://www.hotmaxtorches.com/ although I've never heard of them. If it looks like it comes with everything I should need to get started with mig/flux welding (except gas) to you guys I'll give it a shot... Also for that price it does come with a regulator and hose. And the Lincoln welders at that price are only around 80Amps. I'll see I guess.

@bighead - The differential is welded, both wheels turn the same way along with the whole axle. Where did you get the deal on those J arms? Or are you selling those? I think that might work for me. From what I can tell from the pics it looks like maybe I could reverse the way they are mounted on yours (stick the shocks in the front) so I wouldn't have to build the front of the kart out forward so much... maybe??? As for the brakes I ordered a brake disc + hub for the axle and mechanical brake caliper with a weld on mounting bracket. Also ordered 4 shocks and brackets.

I have small junk yard of the Ody parts. I have ones but not all painted like that.

I have the whole shabame from wheels to steering wheel. No tierods though.

Wheels,hubs,spindles,j-arms, shocks,steering shaft with pitman arm,steering column,steering wheel,cables for $75 plus shipping.

Problems you will have? Finding the main bar the correct size for the j-arms. I do not know if it is a metric honda bar or a standard bar size. It's thick though. Best case is you can find one easy. Worst case is I can cut one out of a Stock frame and send it to you.

Shocks? The shocks I have are stock and give you about 3" travel if that. You can set them up racing style like the blue buggy above. So you will need to get some nice shocks unless you want to go basic like the stock Odyssey is. I posted some pics below how some of my racing Ody's j-arms are set up.

This is not as good as A Arms we all know that. But with this ody set up your kart will not be super wide in the front like a arms would make your kart be. Also it's a simple as you can get. Once you weld the main bar in the front of the frame level you basicaly done. Also look how may birds you kill with one stone in Wheels,hubs,spindles,j-arms, shocks,steering shaft with pitman arm,steering column,steering wheel,cables. Also it's heavy duty stuff. It will give your front end much needed weight. And be strong enough to take some BS. Also parts are cheap on ebay if you ever need to replace anything. Parts are non problem for the Odyssey.

Here are some pics of a front end I have for a project I will build some day. I got this bar in a kit so I do not know where it came from. You would have to find a bar like this that is heavy duty. Then you make your front end as wide as you want. Then rebuild the front of the kart to blend in with the added bar.

Again random pics I have on file to give you some pondering to so.

 

[bighead]

Here is some pics of the steering wheel styleand column. You would have to buy then plastic cover on ebay for about $40 repop. I have no goods ones. Hard to see but there is a column and a shaft going down with pitman arm.

Tierods are cheap on ebay for the fl250. You will need to mod them for your lenth though. Easy enough.

Also with the set up you have to consider pedals and no pedals? How will you shift/clutch if brake and gas are on the wheel? Hmmmm.

 

[Timtreo]

I really like this idea! I was looking at my frame today and trying to figure out how A arms would work without having a crazy wide front end. I don't care about the paint, I'm going to paint the whole frame when everything is welded and done. I did just order 11" shocks and I just had brand new tires mounted on the front rims I had. Maybe I jumped the gun before I knew exactly what I was going to do... Do you know off hand what the spindle diameter is? And how wide is it between the J arms? I think we will work something out as far as me buying some stuff from you. Thanks so much for this idea.
PS What do you think about the specs I posted above for the duty rating of that welder?

Oh, and I was going to use 3 pedals and just have shifters on the steering wheel made out of clutch levers and cables, shift up on one side and down on the other.