Hemi Predator Build #2

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bob58o

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I have a question about that flywheel... Is it machined for the correct taper for the 60363 Predator.. I know the taper is different from Honda GX/other clone engines.

As far as I know, it has the correct taper. It seems to fit just fine. It lapped on OK.

Here is for non Hemi Predators. (69730)
http://ambushracingproducts.com/cart/index.php?l=product_detail&p=35
Billet Flywheel Machined from 6061-T6 Aluminum. Timing Machined in at 34 deg advanced Timing weighing in at 2.700 Lbs and standard diameter. No Dropdown Bracket Needed... Predator 212 with tin sheet metal valve cover model #69730

and for Hemi's (60363)
http://ambushracingproducts.com/cart/index.php?l=product_detail&p=34
Billet Flywheel Machined from 6061-T6 Aluminum. Timing Machined in at 34 deg advanced Timing weighing in at 2.700 Lbs and standard diameter. No Dropdown Bracket Needed...Harbor Freight model #60363
 

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Griff

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I was using 16oz of oil during break in. I noticed oil coming out of the filter/vent I added to the top of the block. So I decided I'm going to use a catch can on this one.
It's got to be Billet for High RPMs right? Safety first. It's 1.5 x 4". Would make a nice little vertical 4 oz gas tank. Maybe get you through a drag race?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Billet-Alum...ng-/122431408193?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275

In the ARC Billet Side Cover Video, if I understood correctly, Jody says he likes two vents in the valve cover and two in the block/side cover (for engines turning 7000+ RPM). One line connecting a valve cover vent to a block vent. The other two vents (one block vent, one valve cover vent) going into a vented catch can. Says like that he can put 16oz of oil in and the catch can only collects maybe 1 oz per race day. Without the line connecting the valve cover and block, the can would collect maybe 2 oz. Says it seems to keep more oil inside the engine.


Hmm I've been wondering about a can. I have that valve cover spacer (with option to vent or plug). Still kinda want one but not if it's not a valuable benefit (redundant?)
 

bob58o

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Now my question is does this come with a 3/4" JS and 3/4" sprocket, and 3/4" bore 7" driven unit? Or is it the typical 5/8" Jackshaft with a 7" Driven unit?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Torque-Conv...m20e95a9042:m:mBO05k9Ea0nXxLN9Q9TCiTQ&vxp=mtr

I sent a ? to the seller, but will probably buy it even if it is 5/8" The $60 kit, plus the $40 7" Pulley, plus probably would need a new belt to fit the 7" pulley.

If this is the correct belt, it is cheaper than piecing it together.

---------- Post added at 09:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:38 PM ----------

Seller stevbmi (59062)

Comet Die Cast Aluminum Weights (shoe driver assembly) Torque Converter Parts
$35.95
Expedited (4 business days)
USPS Priority MaileBay FAST'N FREE FREE

Yellow Replacement Springs, 20 & 30 Series Torque Converter Driver Clutch 216111
$14.95
Standard (5 business days)
USPS First Class Package FREE

4200 RPM Engagement is the max I could go. I don't think the really light weights are available anywhere.

So around $155 for a 30 Series TC kit with 7" Driven and 4200 RPM Driver Engagement.
 

bob58o

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Is it done yet?

I broke the first exhaust I had. Tried to weld it. Seemed to be doing good but then blew through it. So I have a new exhaust on the way. Also a new air filter is on the way. Oil Catch can is on the way. Tachometer is on the way.

I think I want to add bracing. Between the holes for the oil sensor. Heard that is good for block support and helps keep the oil from frothing up or something?

Also maybe a plate behind the flywheel connecting the 4 holes for the charging system.

I have a top plate for a little support on top and will have a TC plate for a little support on the PTO side of the block.

It is basically finished.
Just Bells and Whistles now.

Why do you ask? Got a Dyno? Want to test it?
 

bob58o

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I've been meaning to post some things, but kept forgetting...

I set the coil gap to around 0.048". It's more than 0.045" and less than 0.050".

The crank shaft end play is more than 0.005" less than 0.010". Less than 0.010" is good. 0.005" is better. The cams have around 0.015" IIRC and with the helical gears you want very little on the crank (stolen from an ARC video).

I've kinda moved on, the engine is about done. Will need tuning of course.

I think I've got the TC figured out. It's going to cost a bit over $200. But that is with the 6" Driven, belt for 6", the 7" Driven, Kevlar belt for the 7", yellow garter springs, die cast aluminum weights, and 8,9,10,11,12,13,14 Tooth sprockets. Lots of gears for tuning if I ever try to drag race.
 

bob58o

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RobertsonTorqueTubes.com is sending me a new flange and head pipe.
5 star company! Great to do bushiness with. Have any questions, just call and ask them. They will build you what you need!!!

https://www.robertsonstorquetubes.com/

Orders/Tech Line: (605) 787-5676
Email: racingpipes@yahoo.com

© 2017 by KartPipes.com.


It will have the same OD and bend as the one I had, but thicker wall tubing. So a smaller ID, but stronger and less likely to crack. I'll have to cut the pipe between the 1st and 2nd stage and get the two parts welded together.
 

bob58o

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Catch can plumbing.

Will have to wait until I get the bike to figure out where things go, but here's the basic concept and parts I used.

Stock 3/8" tube coming from Valve cover
1/4" ID vacuum line
(2) 3/8" to 1/4" barbed reducing coupler
1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4" Y barbed coupler
Breather Filter (3/8" ID end)
Catch Can (includes (2) 1/4" barbed fittings and petcock)
9?, 10?, . .. dozen hose clamps? Lol

The stock hose from the valve cover has a bend. I used that section. That hose gets a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer. The breather filter gets the other 3/8 to 1/4 reducer.

One end of the "Y" gets connect to the Valve cover, the other to the block vent. I got lots of hose to play around with mounting location for the can and filter.
 

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bob58o

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And this came too!
That burger is for sure making its way onto the build somewhere.
 

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bob58o

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ezcome-ezgo

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There is a need at GAB on this "lifting" the engine. What you are really looking for is some kind of extruded aluminum structure, something like this:
 

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bob58o

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I've seen some rectangular aluminum tubing, but it was similar in price to the rectangular stock.
And no internal bracing like you've shown.

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchan...5-pV9w0UWbTE1XtgI8_g760f7R1vUyQhoCPL8QAvD_BwE

I'm all ears for suggestions. Post links if you find them. Think I like one rectangular piece covering the whole bottom of the engine as opposed to two pieces of 2x2x8 sq tubing. i'm thinking the later would allow too much flex in the block, but I don't really have a clue.

Looking for 2" x 5" x 8"
 

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bob58o

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What do you want to see? The Powerland 420 buggy? The buggy with the 212cc on it? This engine was built for a minibike. I am waiting for a response on some modifications on the kit I want to buy.

I'll see if I can get some video of the buggy with the 420cc, the only means of transferring power to the wheels is a 1" 40 series TC.

I am also limited to the back yard of a Chicago home at the moment. Let me see if I already have a video. It won't be very good.

---------- Post added at 02:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:33 PM ----------

Stock Linkage with no Governor. Impossible they said.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ApZSnL10Ehs

---------- Post added at 02:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:47 PM ----------

420 Donuts sounds like it could be something different....
Zero Turn Buggy
Trust me, with the live axle, the wide rear tires, and my front steering geometry... This is how you want to turn anyway LOL
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JO9etb8k7k
 
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