bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Robertson Torque Tubes delivered.
Attachments
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IMG_1484.jpg
Hemi Predator Build #2
- Thread starter bob58o
- Start date
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ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
By UPS no doubt.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
usps
ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
Poking the bear with a red hot poking stick.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Mess with the Bull and you get the Horns,
Play with Fire and you get Burned,
Pour Gasoline on the Bon-fire wood pile and....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOOc5kT39ec
The burnt hair smells like the Air/Fuel Vapor Ratio was about Stoich LOL
ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
Epic.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
I'm still waiting for the follow up video. Big @$% Redneck Bonfire "Take Two". Or maybe they were satisfied after the first take. Only true professionals could nail a shot like that in only one take.
The timing was a bit off. They got...Three, Two, One, but only the "Ze" of Zero. I think they should try it again and get the timing right this time.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Trail Tech TTO Temperature Meter Digital Gauge 14mm Spark Plug Sensor 742-ET3
Brand New Trail Tech TTO Temperature Meter Digital Gauge in Black with 14mm Spark Plug/CHT Sensor with Front Button.
User selectable display: 0-575°F or -40-300°C
Measures current and maximum temperature, resettable
Internal Battery
Fully sealed to be waterproof
Maintenance free for up to 5 years
Screen: 24 x 14mm (1x.5”)
Physical Dimensions: 45x31x17mm WxHxD (1.75x1.22x.7” WxHxD)
Physical Weight: 1.3 oz (39.3 grams)
Peel-n-Stick or Bolt-on (bolts not included)
Cable Length: 550mm / 21.6 inches
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trail-Tech-...T3-/362014858510?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275
Attachments
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tmp1.jpg -
tmp2.jpg -
tmp3.jpg
ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
1.3 oz of horsepower-robbing weight.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
But the ability to tune using Cylinder Head Temperature will surely make up for it.
ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
Data is the heart of GAB.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
1/16" NPT Wet N20 Nozzle
NX70000 Piranha Knock Off
$35 Shipped
https://www.ebay.com/itm/122775998839
1/8" NPT Wet N20 Nozzle
NX90016 Shark Knock Off
$40 Shipped
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Work-For-N...d=122775998839&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
My intake manifold has a 1/8" NPT threaded hole maybe 8mm deep? Still need to measure depth.
http://www.nrracing.com/product-p/man-24-wp.htm
This bushing 1/16 to 1/8 NPT adapter is 17mm total length, 10mm of 1/8"NPT threads.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/201781023131
1/16 and 1/8 NPT are 27 TPI.
Looks like the Piranha has about 8 or 9 threads (so 8mm of threads)? And maybe 16mm from top of threads to tip of nozzle.
The Shark nozzle looks like maybe 9mm of threads and 25mm from top of threads to tip of nozzle.
I think the Shark is too long for the manifold. Too much of a restriction in the intake.
The Piranha seems too short for the bushing adapter.
I think I can drill out the threads inside the head of the adapter and cut a few threads off the bottom of the adapter. Maybe grind the head of the adapter down? I think the Piranha would be better if I can make the adapter work.
Waiting hand made drawings with measurements from calipers from dude at NX.
NX70000 Piranha Knock Off
$35 Shipped
https://www.ebay.com/itm/122775998839
1/8" NPT Wet N20 Nozzle
NX90016 Shark Knock Off
$40 Shipped
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Work-For-N...d=122775998839&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
My intake manifold has a 1/8" NPT threaded hole maybe 8mm deep? Still need to measure depth.
http://www.nrracing.com/product-p/man-24-wp.htm
This bushing 1/16 to 1/8 NPT adapter is 17mm total length, 10mm of 1/8"NPT threads.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/201781023131
1/16 and 1/8 NPT are 27 TPI.
Looks like the Piranha has about 8 or 9 threads (so 8mm of threads)? And maybe 16mm from top of threads to tip of nozzle.
The Shark nozzle looks like maybe 9mm of threads and 25mm from top of threads to tip of nozzle.
I think the Shark is too long for the manifold. Too much of a restriction in the intake.
The Piranha seems too short for the bushing adapter.
I think I can drill out the threads inside the head of the adapter and cut a few threads off the bottom of the adapter. Maybe grind the head of the adapter down? I think the Piranha would be better if I can make the adapter work.
Waiting hand made drawings with measurements from calipers from dude at NX.
Attachments
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MAN-24-WP-4T.jpg -
MAN-24-WP-3T.jpg -
bushing adapter.jpg -
shark.jpg -
piranha.jpg
ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
These are not the droids you are looking for.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Not mine, but since you like too see carnage.
No gov.....mamba jr cam....springs....pushrods....champion rockers...14cc head.... exhaust pipe.... flywheel....rod.....and yes it's seen high rpm I got to 63mph without the nitrous Oh and head stud kit, side cover stud kit,.030 head gasket with copper coating,gearing,28mm makuni flatslide,catch can
No gov.....mamba jr cam....springs....pushrods....champion rockers...14cc head.... exhaust pipe.... flywheel....rod.....and yes it's seen high rpm I got to 63mph without the nitrous Oh and head stud kit, side cover stud kit,.030 head gasket with copper coating,gearing,28mm makuni flatslide,catch can
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79B53BAD-B391-4BCD-BF6D-7D4E1C458D3E.jpeg -
E1970199-1BB0-4DF5-BB67-248789907927.jpg
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Ordered that CHT sensor/gauge.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trail-Tech...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Reading up, seems race karts like to run around 400 - 410 degrees F at the spark plug on gas. Other places say ~380F for air cooled engines and higher than 400F is destructive. So somewhere in the 375-400F range seems reasonable.
I have no idea where I might be now when warmed up and running hard. Haven't run it very hard yet. Nor do I have a thermometer to check.
Need to plan a tuning day where I can take it somewhere and run it hard for a while. Spark plugs should tell me if the combo of plug temp, jetting, and ignition timing is correct. It would be nice to be able to compare cylinder head temps to plugs chops. All mixed in with some 1/4 mile drag times.
Between Plugs, CHT, and a Stop Watch, I should have more than all the data I need. This should be a nice tuning tool. I have my 34 degree flywheel turned back two degrees right now so should be 32ish. I'm basing that off of 24 BTDC stock, but never actually measured.
Things that affect CHT
CHT increases when power is increased, and that it also increases when cooling airflow is decreased. But there are a number of other factors that also affect CHT.
Recall that during the Otto cycle power stroke, peak internal cylinder pressure and temperature optimally occur at 15° to 20° of crankshaft rotation after top dead center - a point denoted by θpp. Anything that causes θpp to occur earlier (i.e., closer to TDC) in-creases CHT, and anything that causes θpp to occur later (further from TDC) decreases CHT.
For example, advancing the ignition timing so that the spark plug fires earlier causes θpp to occur earlier and increases CHT. Retarding the ignition timing so that the spark plug fires later causes θpp to occur later and decreases CHT.
Alternatively, changing the mixture can affect CHT by changing the rate at which the air-fuel charge burns, and therefore causing θpp to occur earlier or later. The burn rate of the air-fuel charge is fastest a mixture that is slightly richer than stoichiometric, approximately 50°F rich of peak EGT (50°F ROP). Either richening or leaning the mixture from that point decreases the burn rate, causes θpp to occur later, and consequently reduces CHT.
- The Internet 2017
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trail-Tech...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Reading up, seems race karts like to run around 400 - 410 degrees F at the spark plug on gas. Other places say ~380F for air cooled engines and higher than 400F is destructive. So somewhere in the 375-400F range seems reasonable.
I have no idea where I might be now when warmed up and running hard. Haven't run it very hard yet. Nor do I have a thermometer to check.
Need to plan a tuning day where I can take it somewhere and run it hard for a while. Spark plugs should tell me if the combo of plug temp, jetting, and ignition timing is correct. It would be nice to be able to compare cylinder head temps to plugs chops. All mixed in with some 1/4 mile drag times.
Between Plugs, CHT, and a Stop Watch, I should have more than all the data I need. This should be a nice tuning tool. I have my 34 degree flywheel turned back two degrees right now so should be 32ish. I'm basing that off of 24 BTDC stock, but never actually measured.
Things that affect CHT
CHT increases when power is increased, and that it also increases when cooling airflow is decreased. But there are a number of other factors that also affect CHT.
Recall that during the Otto cycle power stroke, peak internal cylinder pressure and temperature optimally occur at 15° to 20° of crankshaft rotation after top dead center - a point denoted by θpp. Anything that causes θpp to occur earlier (i.e., closer to TDC) in-creases CHT, and anything that causes θpp to occur later (further from TDC) decreases CHT.
For example, advancing the ignition timing so that the spark plug fires earlier causes θpp to occur earlier and increases CHT. Retarding the ignition timing so that the spark plug fires later causes θpp to occur later and decreases CHT.
Alternatively, changing the mixture can affect CHT by changing the rate at which the air-fuel charge burns, and therefore causing θpp to occur earlier or later. The burn rate of the air-fuel charge is fastest a mixture that is slightly richer than stoichiometric, approximately 50°F rich of peak EGT (50°F ROP). Either richening or leaning the mixture from that point decreases the burn rate, causes θpp to occur later, and consequently reduces CHT.
- The Internet 2017
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Plug Chop
Not sure how good this plug reading will be.
I killed it around 40mph at maybe 5/8 Throttle, but only ran at that throttle for for a few seconds before killing it. Plug doesn’t have more than 30 minutes total on it. Today I let it idle for a minute then cruised around for about 7-8 minutes before this chop.
The color on the end of the porcelain indicates good A/F mixture. Because it is close to the tip, it shows mostly small throttle opening mixture. This would probably burned cleaner (whiter) if I was at WOT.
The tip of the center electrode has a color change about 1/2mm (0.020”). This is thicker than 0.020” if you inspect closer to the grounding strap. Possibly showing too much timing? Maybe just right? Maybe need more run time to tell.
There is darker coloring on only ~1 thread of the plug. Possibly indicating too hot of a spark plug heat range.
The color change on the grounding strap is closer to the threads than ideal. Should be closer to the tip. Ideally right at the apex of the bend. Either too hot of a plug or too much ignition advance? Some say this shows timing, some say it shows plug heat range. So it seems a colder plug with more timing will show similar to a hotter plug with less timing??
The face of the base thread is amber colored all around and with a half ring of soot? Ideally want a full ring of soot, or 3/4 ring of soot of max HP, bordering on lean. So this maybe shows a bit lean?
Before changing to a colder plug or retarding the ignition any further, I want to use some real 100 Octane, not the booster/stabilizer.
Also want to run WOT for a chop if I’m going to be changing the plug temp, the ignition timing, or the main jet. Then I can cut the threads and look at the other end of the porcelain.
Not sure how good this plug reading will be.
I killed it around 40mph at maybe 5/8 Throttle, but only ran at that throttle for for a few seconds before killing it. Plug doesn’t have more than 30 minutes total on it. Today I let it idle for a minute then cruised around for about 7-8 minutes before this chop.
The color on the end of the porcelain indicates good A/F mixture. Because it is close to the tip, it shows mostly small throttle opening mixture. This would probably burned cleaner (whiter) if I was at WOT.
The tip of the center electrode has a color change about 1/2mm (0.020”). This is thicker than 0.020” if you inspect closer to the grounding strap. Possibly showing too much timing? Maybe just right? Maybe need more run time to tell.
There is darker coloring on only ~1 thread of the plug. Possibly indicating too hot of a spark plug heat range.
The color change on the grounding strap is closer to the threads than ideal. Should be closer to the tip. Ideally right at the apex of the bend. Either too hot of a plug or too much ignition advance? Some say this shows timing, some say it shows plug heat range. So it seems a colder plug with more timing will show similar to a hotter plug with less timing??
The face of the base thread is amber colored all around and with a half ring of soot? Ideally want a full ring of soot, or 3/4 ring of soot of max HP, bordering on lean. So this maybe shows a bit lean?
Before changing to a colder plug or retarding the ignition any further, I want to use some real 100 Octane, not the booster/stabilizer.
Also want to run WOT for a chop if I’m going to be changing the plug temp, the ignition timing, or the main jet. Then I can cut the threads and look at the other end of the porcelain.
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E523C8B9-7064-4D52-8F95-3BC7245FAC54.jpg -
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F3E3E2C0-63F6-48D7-99AB-2AC682B9E29E.jpg -
chop 1.jpg
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Base Ring
A lot of info out there is confusing or contradicting. I will compile some of the internet here.
Jetting = the air/fuel mixture ratio shows up on the base ring (the last thread ring, it has the strap welded to it). You want a full turn of light soot color on the base ring!!! If you want to tune for max. power, then you want 3/4 to 7/8ths of a full turn of light soot color to show up on the base ring, but this is on ragged-edge of being too lean, but will make the most HP on most engines. To be safe, leave it at a full turn of light soot color. If the base ring has a full turn of color, but there are "spots" of heavy build-up of "dry soot" on top of color, then jetting is too rich .
NOTE: If the base ring has a full turn of color with some spots of heavy dry soot, then jetting is too rich, REGARDLESS, if the porcelain is "BONE-WHITE", jetting is still TOO RICH !!!
NOTE: Do not look at the porcelain to read jetting !!!
http://www.wallaceracing.com/plug-reading-lm.html
A lot of info out there is confusing or contradicting. I will compile some of the internet here.
Jetting = the air/fuel mixture ratio shows up on the base ring (the last thread ring, it has the strap welded to it). You want a full turn of light soot color on the base ring!!! If you want to tune for max. power, then you want 3/4 to 7/8ths of a full turn of light soot color to show up on the base ring, but this is on ragged-edge of being too lean, but will make the most HP on most engines. To be safe, leave it at a full turn of light soot color. If the base ring has a full turn of color, but there are "spots" of heavy build-up of "dry soot" on top of color, then jetting is too rich .
NOTE: If the base ring has a full turn of color with some spots of heavy dry soot, then jetting is too rich, REGARDLESS, if the porcelain is "BONE-WHITE", jetting is still TOO RICH !!!
NOTE: Do not look at the porcelain to read jetting !!!
http://www.wallaceracing.com/plug-reading-lm.html
Attachments
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base ring.jpg -
rich.jpg
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Heat Range
Heat Range = Ground Strap, the ground strap indicates the heat-range of the spark plug. If the "color" of the ground strap "changes" too close to the ground strap's end, (which is above the center electrode), then the heat-range is "too cold" , meaning that the strap is losing heat too quickly to the base ring, and is not able to burn off deposits until near its end. If the "color" of the strap changes near where it is welded/attached to the base ring (last thread ring), then it means that the plug heat-range is "too hot", because heat is not being tranferred/cooled from the strap to the base ring quickly enough !!!! The strap might begin to act like a "glow-plug", eventually causing preignition and/or detonation later on. Proper heat-range is when the "color" is at the half-way point on the strap, neither too cold or too hot.
Heat Range = Ground Strap, the ground strap indicates the heat-range of the spark plug. If the "color" of the ground strap "changes" too close to the ground strap's end, (which is above the center electrode), then the heat-range is "too cold" , meaning that the strap is losing heat too quickly to the base ring, and is not able to burn off deposits until near its end. If the "color" of the strap changes near where it is welded/attached to the base ring (last thread ring), then it means that the plug heat-range is "too hot", because heat is not being tranferred/cooled from the strap to the base ring quickly enough !!!! The strap might begin to act like a "glow-plug", eventually causing preignition and/or detonation later on. Proper heat-range is when the "color" is at the half-way point on the strap, neither too cold or too hot.
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cold.jpg -
Proper Heat.jpg -
timing.jpg
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