Hemi Build #3 -Boogie Woogie Woogie

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bob58o

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For a more accurate CC of the Combustion Chamber.....

TN Lab Supply 25 ml Borosilicate Glass Burette w/glass Stopcock
https://www.ebay.com/itm/TN-Lab-Sup...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Clear Polycarbonate (Lexan), 3/8" x 6" x 6"
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Clear-Poly...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Going to drill a hole in the Lexan Plate and seal it to the gasket surface with vasoline or grease.

I don't have a stand for the burette, but I think I can do without one.


2.765" Bore
2.165: Stroke
3.328" Rod
71 Degrees ABDC Intake Valve Closing
0.001" Deck Height
0.027" Gasket Thickness
2.756" Gasket Bore

Chamber Size
SCR
DCR

20.0cc
10.31:1
7.88:1

19.5cc
10.52:1
8.04:1

19.0cc
10.74:1
8.20:1

18.75cc
10.85:1
8.28:1

18.5cc
10.97:1
8.37:1

18.25cc
11.09:1
8.46:1

18.0cc
11.21:1
8.55:1

17.75cc
11.33:1
8.63:1

If I use 72 ABDC instead of 71, the Dynamic CR drops by about 0.1
I think I will be able to safely mill off 0.040"
4 x 0.9338cc = -3.735cc

I will mill 0.035" Minimum or 0.060" Maximum, Depending on the what the actual chamber measures.
 

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bob58o

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OKO 21mm. (ZSDPT?)
They sure does measures good.

And next to a 30mm.

The 21mm has these ports/barb fittings.
The 24mm and 30mm don’t have them.
 

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bob58o

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I drilled a jet out to 1.6mm.
I hope when NR says the inverted manifold needs a 160 jet, they that is what he meant.
GoKartsUSA says 170 to 180.

I know this is not a VM22 and the stock jetting is a little different.
Stock VM22 Jetting is 100. Going to a 160 is a 160% increase in area of the jet hole.

I assume if the manifold requires a larger main jet, then the low jet and clip position should be richened as well?????????????

A 30 low jet, if enlarged by 160% in hole area, would become a 48 jet, but neither distributor mentions the low jet.


Where is all this fuel going????
It can't all be getting burned. If a manifold requires twice as much fuel and all that fuel gets burned at the same AFR, then it would make twice the power right? Not likely that a manifold swap with the same carb will double the power.

This manifold appears to be not very fuel efficient. Where does the extra fuel go?

They must know I was using a filter with a chromey part and limitless flow.
Or want me ready to switch to methanol if I ever switch to a normal manifold.
 

bob58o

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I tried the burette, I'll measure again - and again (with some pictures).
Since the valves are new and not lapped in, I put some grease on the seating surface for the valves.

I am still waiting on the 3/8" thick Lexan sheet, so this was done with the 0.050" thick sheet.

I feel this was my best measurement yet.

21.6cc.
 

bob58o

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I measured again.
1.21 Gigawatts.
Oh wait...

21.5 CC’s.
So at the moment, I'm looking at milling 0.035" which should bring the chamber to about 18.25 CC's. I'm using 0.9338 CC's per 0.010" milled. This should bring my Static CR to just above 11 :1. DCR just under 8.5 :1.

The 280-0211 cam says it likes 11:1 or under. The 280-0410 should do fine with Static CR of ~11.1 :1.

Now that I have gone to great lengths to figure out how to get to 8.5 DCR, I will mention that DCR is not a great thing to judge octane requirements. Cranking Pressure is better, from what I've read.

What I learned through this exercise is that I likely don't/didn't need 100 Octane for any of my previous builds. 93 octane should be good enough for about any cam offered if you keep Static CR at 11:1 or under. At least if going off of the 8.5 DCR rule of thumb.
 

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bob58o

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I have been told that if you use a torch to heat up the aluminum around the bearings to around 250 or 275 degrees, they will just fall out.
I think the other option is to pull the oil seal and hammer them out using a socket or something.

I'm going to try the heat method. I might put my new bearings in the freezer and try to slip the new cold ones in right after the old ones come out- while aluminum is still hot (as was suggested to me).
 

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bob58o

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In an attempt to simulate what might happen to the curve if I added a 45* 0.995" ID x 8" long exhaust header extension on my 10" long x 0.87" ID pipe....

Only change here is going from 10" x 0.87" exhaust to 18" x 0.93" ID exhaust.

Pretty Significant.
If I going with the long intake, I should probably use a longer exhaust.

http://www.nrracing.com/product-p/bends-1.125.htm
I can cut off the flared end and rotate it to make it fit (I hope).
 

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bob58o

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I think I want to use 1/4” fuel line, so I want to replace this fitting.

I believe the replacement I want to use is 1/4” NPT.
 

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