Help With Pulley Alignment on predator 212 / YD3203

[panchothedog]

Did you need to drill four holes in the engine mounting plate for the four inner slots? I guess that is what I am not clear about.

On this kart I think I did. It's been 6 years ago, so not sure. Looking at my.photo,. It doesn't look like the downward bolts went straight into the engine plate slots. On a second kart ( A Tomberlin Firefox ) that had a 6hp. Mitsubishi engine and presented the same problem, the downward bolts went straight into the slots. The spacing on the plate is the same as common kart or bike motor mount.

 

[panchothedog]

Man thank yall for all the suggestions! I ended up deciding to try the motor plate route at Pancho’s
suggestion and ordered a few different adjustable motor plates off Amazon (so I can return). The issue I’m now running into is that the chain is only maybe 3/8 to 1/2” away from the frame… the motor plates either hang out over the frame too much and are hitting the chain, or the minimum amount of adjustment for the motor is causing issues with it running into the chain… I don’t know enough about chain sprockets on these things to know that there may or may not be an obvious solution… Is it easy enough to move the chain and sprockets towards the driver side wheel? Or is that a difficult undertaking? The small block motor mount that Pancho originally suggested may work…my frame looks to be right at 6” in width and this bracket is 6.5” wide with what looks like the motor mounts off center in a way that would help https://www.gopowersports.com/fully-adjustable-motor-plate-small-block/

I did also find a new sprocket for the driven pulley that seems to be quite a bit thinner than the existing one… So I may today try taking the driven pulley off and replacing the rear sprocket and see how close it lines my pulleys up. Someone had asked for pics to see what’s on the passenger side of the motor, here they are

[side note] this has made me much more hopeful that the year the AI robot takes us all over is further down the road that we think…y’alls knowledge puts ChatGPT to shame

3/8 to 1/2" is more than enough. On a couple of my karts, the chain is no more than 1/8" from the back side of the driven clutch. With decent sprocket alignment, in my experience the chain doesn't move side ways very much. Maybe not at all.

 

[JimD]

Again, very good pictures. Looking at the sprocket on the jackshaft, now you could flip the one you have 180 degrees since it looks like you have the room. Fill in the gap between the driven unit and the sprocket with 3/4" washers so the sprocket nor the driven unit can move. The shaft really looks rusty so when you get the driven unit off clean it all up so everything slides easy and spray the shaft with some dry graphite. With the shaft out make sure the bearing on each end turn really smoothly, if not, might as well replace them with everything taken apart. Since we are telling you how to spend your money you might as well get some new chain, buy it in 10' length because you will need to replace it down the line when it is stretched too much. If the shaft is 3/4" it looks like you need SH-75 snap ring for the one end. Looks like the rust is the only thing holding that shaft in place.

Is your driven unit 6" or 7" ?? Don't order a new belt yet we have to get the chain lined up first. As Denny will tell you there is only one type of belt to order. There are quite a few sizes to choose from with the style t/c you have.

Where are you located?? I have several miles of 3/4" fully key shaft I have left over from when they built karts in the US that has been sitting since 2005 and it is rust free. If you are close by I will cut you a piece, It sure beats cleaning that shaft up but if you aren't close to Illinois it sure isn't worth sending it out either. Cost more to ship than it is worth.