Help with predator 224

[aust9002]

Just not sure about the rpm drop almost 500rpm difference lower with the 140 vs the 130

 

[aust9002]

Theres a bunch of black at the bottom of the insulator is that ok

 

[aust9002]

I think tomorrow im going to change to the green spring and see how that goes

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Theres a bunch of black at the bottom of the insulator is that ok

Was the plug pulled after the seafoam dump???

Additives and cleaners will cause a false reading.

It could have built up after letting off throttle or idling too long. Hard to tell, gotta be consistent, and small changes.

Sounds like you need to find somewhere between the 130-140.

You could leave it and run that seafoam out, then start over with the 130. That plug color is in the safe range and wont hurt the engine.

That plug looks good, I can't see it giving up 500 rpm, if everything else was the same.

Keep tuning and testing, only 1 change at a time.

I start out tuning the high side for color, then go to the low side for that "shaking my dentures out and spinning my wig around backwards" yank up outta the hole.
Most times I have to go bak to the high side and make small main changes.

Low speed Idle quality don't sound good, but that's why I run more stall in the driver, so I can turn the idle speed up.

I don't ride at idle, I don't climb hills at idle, so idle quality is kinda useless to me. As long as it stays running at idle who cares what it sounds like

 

[aust9002]

Yeah i just filled up the tank with 1/3 can of seafoam the rest is year old 93, i like a good idle not one i have to pull to start 100 times lol just broke another starter just a few minutes ago.. the main changes were 135 main to 140 main, head gasket, and seafoam still with the 35 idle i might go back to the 40 but idk it really needs a 38 i think but i cant find mine at the moment idk whats wrong but this thing is a PITA to start compared to the predator i could start that thing first pull every time. I think it needs the 140 because the 130 and 135 were the previous readings before the seafoam and it looked to me those were lean but the only weird thing is with the 130 i saw 6450rpm with the 135 i saw 6150 max and with the 140 with the seafoam in the tank i saw 5950 max, but the 130 looked really lean, the 135 kinda lean but the 140 looks good just prob all the carbon and stuff from the seafoam.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Yeah i just filled up the tank with 1/3 can of seafoam the rest is year old 93, i like a good idle not one i have to pull to start 100 times lol just broke another starter just a few minutes ago.. the main changes were 135 main to 140 main, head gasket, and seafoam still with the 35 idle i might go back to the 40 but idk it really needs a 38 i think but i cant find mine at the moment idk whats wrong but this thing is a PITA to start compared to the predator i could start that thing first pull every time. I think it needs the 140 because the 130 and 135 were the previous readings before the seafoam and it looked to me those were lean but the only weird thing is with the 130 i saw 6450rpm with the 135 i saw 6150 max and with the 140 with the seafoam in the tank i saw 5950 max, but the 130 looked really lean, the 135 kinda lean but the 140 looks good just prob all the carbon and stuff from the seafoam.

If you breaking starter ropes, your valve lash is off or you got too much ignition timing, bak it down 2*.

Turn your switch to off, give it some pulls, if it's still hard to pull its the valve lash that needs adjusted.

If it's easy to pull, turn the switch to on, give it some pulls, if it's hard to pull, you have too much ignition timing. Bak it off 2*.

I give my engines a couple small short pulls with the choke on, turn choke off and they fire up 1st pull. Those small lil chug chug pulls, starts moving fuel to the combustion chamber.

Learned that on my old boat motors,

I won't fight an engine to start,

Leaner is meaner, but it'll burn the rings right out of it. Overheating the combustion chamber, is not good.

 

[aust9002]

Ah ok yeah i lashed those to .003" do I need to do .004 or .005? How does one go about changing timing?

 

[aust9002]

What are these weird middle sized jets? I have some of those but do they just fit a different carb?

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Ah ok yeah i lashed those to .003" do I need to do .004 or .005? How does one go about changing timing?

When you are setting the valve lash, are you going PASSED the compression release??

When you see the intake open fully, keep turning the crank clockwise, until you see the exhaust rocker make a lil bump open, then close real fast, thats the compression release. Continue turning the crank clockwise from flywheel side, until the key way on the driver side is lined up with the cylinder, that's where you set both at .003". Don't make them wider, that makes em harder to start.

You need a piston stop and degree wheel to set timing.

Or you can buy advanced timing keys, 2, 4, and/or 6, and turn them backwards.

I don't use timing keys. They can be wrong, depends on who you get them from.

 

[aust9002]

 

[aust9002]

Oh i was just setting lash at tdc

 

[aust9002]

Ok so tomorrow Ill recheck lash after compression release and put the 40 idle jet in there till I can get the 38 in, so I checked launch rpm of the juggy by just turning idle screw up until it engaged around 2450-2500rpm 3000rpm launch would be crazy, and ill get some fresh gas without seafoam

 

[BrownStainRacing]

View attachment 142958

Looks like a kit that fits different carb models. Not unless they need 3 jets now,
Idk, I stopped messing with slides for these engines, 3 or 4 yrs ago.

They do make different sized needles, for realy fine tuning the slide carbs. They have different tapers.

I recommend you get close to the best jetting, before you go down that hole. You can go backwards real fast, if your not close to optimal,

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Oh i was just setting lash at tdc

Nah, don't do that.
Try my way, and lmk how it starts,

 

[aust9002]

Alright sounds good yeah ill just stick to the 140 for now i think its just the seafoam, and ill try that tomo

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Ok so tomorrow Ill recheck lash after compression release and put the 40 idle jet in there till I can get the 38 in, so I checked launch rpm of the juggy by just turning idle screw up until it engaged around 2450-2500rpm 3000rpm launch would be crazy, and ill get some fresh gas without seafoam

One of the nastiest engines I've every build was a 196 that turned 7800 rpm. We had to launch it around 4800, it was on my mini bike for 3 days, and scary af. I took it off and put it on this buggy when it had 16" rear tires.

It was stupid dangerous for the trails we got here.
12.8:1 CR running on 108 octane fuel, with a og vm22.

I tore it down and sold off parts, it was way to dangerous for this area. The race track closed where I was getting fuel, so I figured jus sell it as parts before somebody burned it up, or died.

But you get that stall up and you will see what I'm saying about torq. These lil turd motors will get all over you when you start launching around that peak torq.

Idk about the juggernaut, but the 30 series driver will act normal, if you drive it normal, if you act a fool, it will do that too,

 

[aust9002]

When you are setting the valve lash, are you going PASSED the compression release??

When you see the intake open fully, keep turning the crank clockwise, until you see the exhaust rocker make a lil bump open, then close real fast, thats the compression release. Continue turning the crank clockwise from flywheel side, until the key way on the driver side is lined up with the cylinder, that's where you set both at .003". Don't make them wider, that makes em harder to start.

You need a piston stop and degree wheel to set timing.

Or you can buy advanced timing keys, 2, 4, and/or 6, and turn them backwards.

I don't use timing keys. They can be wrong, depends on who you get them from.

So after the compression release they are a little bit tighter like .002

 

[aust9002]

Ok got the lash set to .003" broke the front control arm redid it again and found 1 bearing but both need to be replaced on the front drivers wheel anybody like oreillys or autozone have one of these 3/4" x 1 3/8" bearings? If so how would I find one?

Also its still bogging when I hit a bump or its higher in the rpm range think i might drain that tank and just fill with some fresh 93 I got today

 

[aust9002]

So I changed to a fresh tank of 93 and pulled the plug and i mightve found my bogging problem lol changed the plug and its ripping decently the plug looks good but I might go back to the 135 main I only got up to a max of 55 even after changing to the green spring but its rippin I also need to change that other bearing still, also i put the 40 idle back in and it starts after about 2-3 pulls now, Im going to order a new pull start assembly and maybe a 11 tooth tomorrow and that stage 1 jugg kit and another 38 idle and spme bearings, i wanna say it sounded like it was hitting about 5900-6000rpm but im not sure because my tach wire ripped off too lol

 

[BrownStainRacing]

So after the compression release they are a little bit tighter like .002

Is it easier to pull with the ignition on??

Ok got the lash set to .003" broke the front control arm redid it again and found 1 bearing but both need to be replaced on the front drivers wheel anybody like oreillys or autozone have one of these 3/4" x 1 3/8" bearings? If so how would I find one? View attachment 142969

Also its still bogging when I hit a bump or its higher in the rpm range think i might drain that tank and just fill with some fresh 93 I got today

I got this 1 welded, now it matches the other side.



I rode it a bit yesterday, it's a lil chilly, I couldn't get the temp up enough, and that red clay trail is slick, so I didnt bother with any tuning.

I beat on the turd motor mini bike for an hr or so.
Some times I forget what a powerhouse it has.