Help with gas line on Predator 212

[Master Hack]

He's got the vocabulary but he doesn't know how to use it. Possibly due to the fact that words and slang are very regional and certain words mean different things depending on where you are.

True, this side of the galaxy does in fact have a differrent dialect.

 

[asoleary]

asoleary. Master Hack has been more than patient with your poor discription of your problem. Won't crank, means the starter motor won't turn the gasoline engine over. Like your common automobile when you turn the key. From the little since your post make, it sounds like your engine won't START when you pull on the rope. If that is the case, say so. It's almost like you speak a different language. Frustrating.

Just seeing this stupid response. I’m grateful he was patient but you’re an idiot. What a stupid response to have. Speak a different language? Damn right…I have no idea what I’m doing as it’s all new and I am learning. So thanks for those who were patient. Give a bit of grace to those who have no idea and are trying to learn.

 

[panchothedog]

Read post # 20. Actually glad to see you are interested in building a engine. Your lack of understanding the difference between cranking and starting, even
after a couple of people tried to explain it. Didn't seem like you trying understand the difference, and it makes a difference in trying to diagnose your problem and provide you with appropriate advice.

 

[asoleary]

I get what you are saying. That in no way means people on a DIY go cart thread should just be rude. Just don’t reply or don’t try to help. I didn’t see all those threads till after the fact. They didn’t show up or I just somehow didn’t see them. Hence that’s why I am replying now. Anyway. I put the new carb on. Didn’t know where the gas tank air tube (hopefully that is some language everyone understands as I don’t know what it’s called) went was an issue. Then after watching the video and the one gentleman telling me what it actually was I got everything hooked up correctly. Then it just wouldn’t crank. Like it wasn’t getting enough gas. Come to find out I think I flooded the carb because it was hooked up wrong originally. Once I got it all fixed the correct way and cranked it a 100 times It started. Everything was running great till last night. Kids were happy and I felt like I am figuring out these small engines. Probably a knock off carb but as I was riding with one of my boys and the carburetor made this huge popping/backfire/gun shot noise and it stopped working. If I try to crank it now nothing happens. Doesn’t even try to turn over or start. I am only assuming the carb is dead. I probably bought a cheap knockoff not knowing the difference. Good thing is for a week or so it was running very smooth. I adjusted the carb and was idling perfectly.

 

[bob58o]

I prefer the Vice Grip Garage vocabulary. There is no confusion when one speaks of a “Lightning Hose” or a “Stopalator”

 

[asoleary]

I prefer the Vice Grip Garage vocabulary. There is no confusion when one speaks of a “Lightning Hose” or a “Stopalator”

That helps! Very funny. I can use that vocab.

 

[panchothedog]

The real Makuni 22 mm carb cost over $100. Don' t know how.much you paid for yours. I have two of the $39 specials. Better known as Chikunis. One of them is on one of my grandsons karts, and actually works pretty good. The other, after being on another kart, then on my mini bike, now sits in a cardboard box. Where it belongs as far as I am concerned. Mini bike ( with several engine modifications ) now runs a re- jetted stock carburetor and does just fine. Sounds like the one you have has you ready to pull your hair out. Do you still have the stock one. Changing the jets is a piece of cake and they just seem so much easier to work with. On one of my other karts, I have a $140 REAL 24 Makuni flat slide carb. Works fantastic. I will never buy another knock off carb again. Will probably never buy another real Makuni either, as the price is a pretty big bullet to bite. Strange how yours quit all of a sudden like that. Doubt that this is your current problem, but in the future when they are reluctant to fire up a shot of starting fluid into the air cleaner can save a lot of ware a tear on your arm. Hopefully someone else will chime in soon with some ideas on your current problem.

 

[Master Hack]

Threw away 1 Chikuini returned another then bought the real deal from Go Power Sports $140. end of problems...

 

[asoleary]

The real Makuni 22 mm carb cost over $100. Don' t know how.much you paid for yours. I have two of the $39 specials. Better known as Chikunis. One of them is on one of my grandsons karts, and actually works pretty good. The other, after being on another kart, then on my mini bike, now sits in a cardboard box. Where it belongs as far as I am concerned. Mini bike ( with several engine modifications ) now runs a re- jetted stock carburetor and does just fine. Sounds like the one you have has you ready to pull your hair out. Do you still have the stock one. Changing the jets is a piece of cake and they just seem so much easier to work with. On one of my other karts, I have a $140 REAL 24 Makuni flat slide carb. Works fantastic. I will never buy another knock off carb again. Will probably never buy another real Makuni either, as the price is a pretty big bullet to bite. Strange how yours quit all of a sudden like that. Doubt that this is your current problem, but in the future when they are reluctant to fire up a shot of starting fluid into the air cleaner can save a lot of ware a tear on your arm. Hopefully someone else will chime in soon with some ideas on your current problem.

Sounds like I need the real one! Thank you for the tip.

 

[asoleary]

Threw away 1 Chikuini returned another then bought the real deal from Go Power Sports $140. end of problems...

Going to buy the real one. Thanks

 

[Master Hack]

Sounds like I need the real one!

Just know you may have other problems as well. Verify that you do have compression and spark. And the the spark event is occurring at the proper time, before throwing money at the problem.

 

[bob58o]

Perhaps a sheared timing key, like was mentioned, above is causing your problems. If there was a backfire, I think the flywheel key is designed to shear off to prevent further damage.

If you verified that there is fuel getting to the carb, and that there is spark, and a little compression, … then all you need is to make sure the spark happens at the right time, which is the flywheel timing key.

You need to remove the pull start/recoil and fan shroud to reveal the glory that is the flywheel.
Suck, squeeze, bang, then blow…
In that order.

 

[bob58o]

Flywheel Removatlor 2000

The flywheel nut, once removed with the ugga dugga gun, can be twisted back on the end on the crankshaft. I’m sure there are videos out there. Search flywheel removal and sheared flywheel key.

 

[Master Hack]

A little heat is helpful also, if you believe in that expansion/contraction thing.

 

[panchothedog]

asoleary. Most of the engine builds on " Red Beards Garage " where he modifies a stock engine, show him pulling off the stock flywheel. Much like the illustration in post #33. Sounds brutal. Works perfect. Also, a lot of knowledge to be gained watching his engine building. Very clear and informative. You can gain a lot of info from them.