With a name like that I would assume it's good, but I am not sure....
Hello from Arkansas
- Thread starter jjarkys
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With a name like that I would assume it's good, but I am not sure....
Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
Nice kart nice work. Welcome to the forum. Did you get the chain from BMI?
jjarkys
New member
Yes. Actually no. I just remembered The chain I order from BMI was to short. The Chain I actually ended up with is for a junior dragster. I got it from Jegs. I'll have to go back and look at the brand.
Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
Well if it's a junior dragster chain from Jegs you should have no worries. Even though they don't climb hills, they commonly produce 50 hp.
jjarkys
New member
Great. I found it on their website. 5ft long. Here it is.
JR Race Car 574-243-5002
Chains
Regina Gold #35 chain is an excellent choice for use on a Jr Dragster running in the 8.90 range or on a lighter 7.90 package. Superior quality to standard #35 chain.
jjarkys
New member
Finally got my kids project all together. He took it for first test drive yesterday. Due to the wide wheel base it was difficult for him to turn with the live axle so I removed the key from the right side. Haven't tested it like that yet. Curious if anyone has tried this? Or if someone makes hubs with bearings for this purpose? I'm using a 3/4 step to 1" axle hub. Anyway, here's some updated pics.
Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
Great job! Cool kart. Kin I go for a ride?
jjarkys
New member
Thanks man.
Orange Krate
Active member
I've had the key come out before and it really wallered out the hub. I don't think anyone makes a hub like that because I'm in need of one for a special project and haven't found one yet. I did order 1" ID bearings but since they are 2" OD so I figure I'm going to have to make or modify a hub.
They do make a sprag clutch hub for oval racing that allows the outside wheel to freewheel in the corners but it's only good for left turns.
The easiest way to turn is go faster, cut the wheel hard and jam on the brakes
Great job btw!
jjarkys
New member
I've had the key come out before and it really wallered out the hub. I don't think anyone makes a hub like that because I'm in need of one for a special project and haven't found one yet. I did order 1" ID bearings but since they are 2" OD so I figure I'm going to have to make or modify a hub.
They do make a sprag clutch hub for oval racing that allows the outside wheel to freewheel in the corners but it's only good for left turns.
The easiest way to turn is go faster, cut the wheel hard and jam on the brakes
Great job btw!
Thxs for the info.
jjarkys
New member
I've had the key come out before and it really wallered out the hub. I don't think anyone makes a hub like that because I'm in need of one for a special project and haven't found one yet. I did order 1" ID bearings but since they are 2" OD so I figure I'm going to have to make or modify a hub.
They do make a sprag clutch hub for oval racing that allows the outside wheel to freewheel in the corners but it's only good for left turns.
The easiest way to turn is go faster, cut the wheel hard and jam on the brakes
Great job btw!
So I found an idler hub at bmi. Works perfect. Ordered it with a 1" bearing and a 3/4" bearing to slip right on my step down axle. Here's the link to it
https://www.bmikarts.com/mobile/4-x-4-Billet-Aluminum-Idler-Hub-34-or-1-ID-Bearing_p_1644.html
Here's a vid of part of our ride today. Went well except after awhile it dies like its running out of gas. Starts right back up, good for awhile then same thing. Not sure whats up.
http://youtu.be/ViYpVqwI_Oc
OzFab
Well-known member
Next time, tell whoever is holding the phone to turn it sideways for a landscape (wide) view...
Have you disconnected the engines low oil sensor?
jjarkys
New member
Fabroman said:
I'll let myself know.
Fabroman said:
I cut the yellow wire coming from the sensor. Assuming that would do it?
OzFab
Well-known member
It should've
So, obviously, that's not the problem... Can you provide any more details? Is there a pattern to it?
jjarkys
New member
It should've
So, obviously, that's not the problem... Can you provide any more details? Is there a pattern to it?
Not that I can tell. Couple circles and it does it. Very similar to vapor lock I encountered in a car I used to have. Which is why I'm leaning toward fuel delivery. But there's tons of fuel being returned to the tank through the return line. I'm still running the stock jet. I had a bigger jet in it but thought that might be to much for it so went back to stock to see if that helped. It didn't.
I wonder if I put the rod (not sure what that's called, sets above the jet) in backwards when I re-jetted? Is that possible?
Potato
newbie kart builder
i had this same issue on my compressor, it might be overheating...
(that was the problem with mine)
(that was the problem with mine)
jjarkys
New member
What was your solution?
OzFab
Well-known member
By "compressor", can I assume you mean air compressor? If so
The solution would be to keep it cool which you ae already doing by moving...
jjarkys
New member
Thinking more about this. Im running an 81 tooth sprocket because the kart is heavier than a standard kart and I was concerned about the 6.5 being enough. The governor is removed. I wonder if it's floating the valves and dying as a result? I also have a 74 and a 63. Maybe I need to jump down to the 74 to keep the engine from reaching valve float to soon. Assuming that's a possible issue?
mysteryboy28
New member
6.5hp is not enough for that kart. it's just way to freakin' big. lol. drop in a 420cc electric start predator with a comet 40 and your problem will be solved. 8.1:1 gear ratio is great for torque with the smaller motor, but with the bigger motor and those size tires i'd go for the 7.4:1 ratio (assuming you have a 10t drive sprocket), to maintain some mondster torque and not be too fast. on my 2-day built clunker kart i have 20" tires and a 6:1 ratio with a 390cc motor. i get about 36mph and have plenty of torque.
http://www.diygokarts.com/speed-calculator.html
http://www.diygokarts.com/speed-calculator.html
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