Head stud torque question

[Wilson_Engine_Shop]

I just got a package of head studs, valve cover studs and side cover studs from GPS. I haven't seen any other post on this so my question is. Should I follow the torque specs on the bags or follow the factory bolt torque specs? I've included both below so y'all can give me your opinions on this.

My dad the engine builder with 40+ years experience told me that oil/WD-40 don't mix with loctite at all

 

[Budget GoKart]

Call gps look up the time they are open and call em they know

 

[Wilson_Engine_Shop]

That would've been my next step. Thanks!

Edit: GPS said that I should run the specs on the bags

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

I would use the factory torque specs. When the factory designates torque specifications, they take into account gasket crush, as well as the physical aspects and attributes of the head/sidecover/block, to ensure it stays tight without warping the mating surfaces.
Loctite is exclusively a stopgap measure to me, only for stuff like worn Nylock nuts.

 

[karl]

Studs typically can be torqued more that a regular bolt, threaded in the aluminum block.

So Go power sports figures seem fine, if your concerned reduce by a foot pound or two.

Also, I have put together 100+ small engines, and never used a drop of loctite. Just grease or light oil, never had any come apart, even under high rpm/stress

Much easier for you/ next poor soul who has to work on it.

If you must use loctite, yes, clean and dry , loctite only.

 

[J.S.@SMS]

Ok, those instructions are stupid, and have a few spelling issues. But I'd locktite then without any wd40 or oil. And I'd follow the package for installing the studs, and the factory specs for torquing down the nuts during assembly.

And Personally I like this guide:
https://web.archive.org/web/20140207013053/http://www.lsengineers.co.uk:80/media/pdfs/honda/gx120-gx160-gx200-assembly-guide.pdf

It used to be on their website, but now it gets a 404 error. But there is such a thing as archive.org thankfully. And "save as Adobe Acrobat Document"

 

[Flyinhillbilly]

Definitely go by what’s on the bag. Thread pitch/ bolt yield points, and several other things come into play.
I loctite everything on these engines, and your day is right. Oil of any kind will negate your use of loctite. Make sure it’s as clean and dry as you can get it, and there is an activator that you can buy that helps loctite cure correctly. I like the orange loctite that’s made for high vibration personally

 

[Texan]

If you use Loctite, you need to lower the required amount of torque applied to fasteners.

 

[Wilson_Engine_Shop]

I would use the factory torque specs. When the factory designates torque specifications, they take into account gasket crush, as well as the physical aspects and attributes of the head/sidecover/block, to ensure it stays tight without warping the mating surfaces.
Loctite is exclusively a stopgap measure to me, only for stuff like worn Nylock nuts.

I really appreciate everyones comments! This is exactly why I love this forum!

You make a good point on why I should use the factory specs (i.e. gasket crush and other aspects). Thats one of the reasons why I made this post to begin with. The other reason being me wanting to know other peoples experiences

---------- Post added at 09:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:39 AM ----------

I caught the spelling errors instantly and had a good laugh about it. I might call GPS and tell them about it so they can get it right