Had to print my own spacers
- Thread starter peejster
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Flyinhillbilly
The great cornholio
This 3D printing still trips me out. That's a good looking part, and I'm curious to see how they last also. Can those do wax? If so, you could print a part in wax, then coat in heavily with plaster of Paris then pour aluminum into the wax making a really nice aluminum part.
I haven't heard of wax prints - the wax would be to uncontrollable at high temps (it would take too long to cool off and therefore wouldn't hold it's shape I would think). I have heard of people printing molds directly. Although, I would imagine that the melting point off aluminum is pretty high.
wax is tricky, mostly because it's too soft to be properly pulled by the extruder;
the actual printing isn't much of an issue really ..
but there's no real reason; molten aluminium removes std ABS just fine (natural white works best since it leaves no dye of course)
Anywhoo, that looks nice indeed.. and I'm not concerned too much either about it withstanding the compression (depending on your infill that is.. but I think upwards of 30% should do with 3walls and a part of that size... and judging by the pic that's a solid part, right?)
it's the rotation that makes me worry..
as soon as it catches (say a small grain of sand catches both the bearing seal plate and the spacer...)
it'll be worn out in a matter of hours.
or at least down to a point where it doesn't hold up to the compression really.
I like that gun-metal color...
ever tried acetone vapor polish on that? should look great.
Side note: your x-axis could use a slight drop of oil.. it looks like it catches at times
'sid
the actual printing isn't much of an issue really ..
but there's no real reason; molten aluminium removes std ABS just fine (natural white works best since it leaves no dye of course)
Anywhoo, that looks nice indeed.. and I'm not concerned too much either about it withstanding the compression (depending on your infill that is.. but I think upwards of 30% should do with 3walls and a part of that size... and judging by the pic that's a solid part, right?)
it's the rotation that makes me worry..
as soon as it catches (say a small grain of sand catches both the bearing seal plate and the spacer...)
it'll be worn out in a matter of hours.
or at least down to a point where it doesn't hold up to the compression really.
I like that gun-metal color...
ever tried acetone vapor polish on that? should look great.
Side note: your x-axis could use a slight drop of oil.. it looks like it catches at times
'sid
chancer
ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
Cool Stuff Indeed!
What is the material of the Part. My understanding is that 3D Printers make plastic parts.
But plastic is a Vague term.
I saw Sid Referenced ABS. Is the part you Printed ABS? or...?
What is the material of the Part. My understanding is that 3D Printers make plastic parts.
But plastic is a Vague term.
I saw Sid Referenced ABS. Is the part you Printed ABS? or...?
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
Cool.
I'd love to have a good 3D printer. They are getting cheaper though.
I'd love to have a good 3D printer. They are getting cheaper though.
Rail rider
Inmate # 3192016
One dude even printed a house out of cement. Amazing things are happening with this technology.
mckutzy
Well-known member
What is the machine you have...
Ebrownie
Member
That's really cool! My high school just got a new 3D printer and I was thinking about using it for something like that. I was doing some research and they do make metal printers, but they put layers of metal powder on and then melt it with a laser. Different from the normal plastic printers. I'm sure these metal printers aren't too cheap, even if they are commercially available.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PHaXX2OoOs4
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PHaXX2OoOs4
Kartorbust
Inmate #627
These things are so cheap now it's awesome. This one will do ABS, wood filler, PLA for only $430+. Would be nice to print stuff out rather than spending a ton of money on stuff. Long as you have the files on hand.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGFGF&P=0
I'd like to see that one that'll print with powdered metal. Wonder what it's strength would be when it's all said and done.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGFGF&P=0
I'd like to see that one that'll print with powdered metal. Wonder what it's strength would be when it's all said and done.
less than 300 is easy.. twohundred possible (geeetech i3 on ebay)
laser fused metal is rather porous since the powder can only be heated up to glass temp at best.
that's why it's bronze sintered afterwards (mostly bronze)
stability afterwards is close (not quite but almost) as good as the metal gears in your std lawnmower gearbox.
you can print on or let's say "have someone print your part" on shapeways.com
in wax, all differnt kind of plastics, and metal (steel, bronze, silver, gold ...)
it's not the cheapest solution, but prices are fair.
So if you're curious.. go ahead
'sid
laser fused metal is rather porous since the powder can only be heated up to glass temp at best.
that's why it's bronze sintered afterwards (mostly bronze)
stability afterwards is close (not quite but almost) as good as the metal gears in your std lawnmower gearbox.
you can print on or let's say "have someone print your part" on shapeways.com
in wax, all differnt kind of plastics, and metal (steel, bronze, silver, gold ...)
it's not the cheapest solution, but prices are fair.
So if you're curious.. go ahead
'sid
Bbqjoe
Banned
So when can we all print an engine?
ultralight01
Senior Yet Young Member
Actually, companies have printed engines with insanely expensive printers. But hobby grade printers only use plastic, a 40% aluminum or bronze/plastic blend, or a wood blend in similar fashion.
The best way to cast with these parts is, print a plastic part, pour a plaster/sand mix around it (with a piece of styrofoam having been glued to the part for a spiggot.
Then put the plaster cast with the plastic inside in the oven. Let the heat-reactive plastic melt out and tada! A perfect mold for aluminum casting.
I have a printer. Still haven't made any go kart parts, but I am making some brake handles for bikes.
The best way to cast with these parts is, print a plastic part, pour a plaster/sand mix around it (with a piece of styrofoam having been glued to the part for a spiggot.
Then put the plaster cast with the plastic inside in the oven. Let the heat-reactive plastic melt out and tada! A perfect mold for aluminum casting.
I have a printer. Still haven't made any go kart parts, but I am making some brake handles for bikes.
Rail rider
Inmate # 3192016
Wax printing might be doable if you had it in a cooling bath.
Not true.. you can buy and even DIY other types as well..
like a full color "sintering" plaster printer (plaster of paris bed, infused by ordinary inkjet ink)
or print cyano acrylates (superglue) on steeldust.. or or or..
there's even a paper printer, that cuts each layer from a sheet, stacks them and uses woodglue to fuse them.
But true.. reprap based fused layers of thermoplastic are most common!
No cooling bath needed at all.. just jewellers wax (expensive stuff I'm afraid)
there was a hopper extruder a while back (not perfectly reliable though... long story)
that could be fileld with pellets..
using ordinary wax pellets it worked just fine.
and with a low enough print speed the wax cooled quick enough for some very nice results.
(but that print speed was painfully slow!)
Anyways, it's possible, just not really practical.
'sid
Rail rider
Inmate # 3192016
You can now grab an engine mounting plate, A hand full of rods and start laying down beads.
Kartorbust
Inmate #627
3D printing engines for people opens a crap ton of capabilities, once they become much more manageable, but could end up with a ton of lawsuits, as far as patents go.
Main downside with 3d printing is how long it takes. I mean I guess I could wait 3 days from start to finish for a block and head, but dang that'll be a long weight. But you could do it for fitment and prototyping. I'd hope the tolerances would be more than acceptable. Last thing we'd want is a 3d printed high rpm engine blowing up, because the tolerances were garbage.
Main downside with 3d printing is how long it takes. I mean I guess I could wait 3 days from start to finish for a block and head, but dang that'll be a long weight. But you could do it for fitment and prototyping. I'd hope the tolerances would be more than acceptable. Last thing we'd want is a 3d printed high rpm engine blowing up, because the tolerances were garbage.
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