GX270 help - possibly valves

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mike75925

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remove the blower housing and check the coil. it may be loose. if nothing is obstructing the flywheel, it may be the crank to bearings or crank to rod. also, it could be the cam to lifters if the lifter bores are excessively worn. when you remove the side cover, check all bearing surfaces.
 

Carlman

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Yea the engine does have spark but I'll check anyway, feels internal.

I'm thinking cam, I'll pull the cover 2morrow arvo.
 

solomon

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blown rod

also wouldn't be surprised if the when the rod blew if it bent the cam
 

solomon

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let us know! I had a gx160 with rust in the cylinder doing the same thing, but i still think it threw a rod.
 

Carlman

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SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Took the side cover off yesterday, everything is in perfect condition, clean oil, no shavings not even any signs of wear on the cam.

Pulled the head and a whole nother story.... There was so much carbon buildup that the piston was hiting it!!! It was built up on one side and the intake valve wasnt seatinbg quite right aswell. Im guessing that it used to run on 2 stroke fuel...

Point is tomorrow hopefully ill get time to re-assemble and test!
 

solomon

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well, im glad to hear that. HA look at my last post, i had a gx160 in perfect condition, but someone let water get in the engne and sit and it made a rust bucket inside the cylinder, above the piston. Cleaned it all out and gave it a hone, ran like new.
 

Carlman

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Ok another update...

Put it back together, started first pull...

runs great except for tones of smoke coming out the exhaust and engine oil dripping out. Ill upload a video later but there is quite a bit of oil.

The engine is now ungoverned aswell.

Could someone please link me to the touque settings for the head of my engine? I could not find it.
 

solomon

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Sounds like you didnt, hone the cylinder, or the oiler ring is stuck and worn
 

Linksep

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I'm going to make an ASSumption here. You had the head off and didn't mention an extremely worn or scored cylinder. The engine also looked like it was run on 2-stroke mix. My ASSumption is that the rings are stuck.

I know you're not scared of disassembling your engine, but if you wanted to avoid pulling the piston here's what I'd try:

1) Warm up the engine (just warm enough where you can no longer hold your hand on the head). Remove the spark plug, and with the piston fairly high up in it's stroke (just to you can see better) pour Sea Foam into the cylinder. Just enough so you know it has filled the piston dish and spilled over to the top ring. Let that soak for an hour to a day. Check up on the level every now and then to make sure it didn't all leak past the rings, top-off as needed.
2) Mix up 1.5-2 oz of Sea Foam in 1 gallon of gas. Drain your gas tank and refill with Sea Foam gas.
3) Change the oil and add 1.5-2 oz of Sea Foam to your fresh engine oil.
4) With the spark plug out and one hand (or a helper) holding a shop towel over the spark plug hole, turn the engine over slowly a couple times, then a time or two faster like you're actually trying to start the engine. That will ensure you don't hydro-lock the engine when you reinstall the spark plug and try to start it.
5) Replace the spark plug and run the engine (preferably at varied load and RPM) for 30-45 minutes, then check the oil. Repeat until it looks like it's time for an oil change.
6) When the oil is ready to be changed restart the engine one more time and run it until it's back up to operating temperature. Once the engine is warm start spraying Sea Foam into the carb throat with the engine running just a little above idle (you could use a spray bottle set to a medium or fine mist, or aerosol Sea Foam). The goal is to spray enough Sea Foam into the carb to stall the engine.
7) Let the Sea Foam do it's thing to the carboned up rings for 15-30 minutes while you change the dirty oil out. This time when you refill the oil you should probably only use 1-1.5 oz of Sea Foam in the oil.
8) Restart the engine and spend about 5 minutes beating on it like it kicked your dog. (By that I mean 3/4 to full throttle, heavy engine load if possible.)
9) Use the motor normally and change oil as needed.

This ASSuMEs your problem is a stuck ring and should work in all but the most extreme cases. If it doesn't work your problem probably isn't stuck rings and you're likely dealing with a scored cylinder. Your options then are: fix it right with new rings and a honed cylinder, or try your luck with 1/4 can of the "Engine Restorer" with CSL (Copper, Silver, Lead).

Supposedly the stuff works... I can see the theory behind 3 very soft metals (temporarily) filling scratches in your cylinder wall, and post #19 in this thread is a guy that claims he (fairly) scientifically tested it in a well worn 3.5 HP Briggs.
 

Carlman

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Why would I not mention a scored cylinder if I found one mate??

The cylinder is in good condition no scoring.

I'm not afraid of pulling a piston and that is my plan.

I appreciate the lengthy post but undortunatly I'll just pull it and change the rings
 

vgk

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Thanks linksep that is very good information. Also I have used the restore im many different things and it works wonderfuly
 

Carlman

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Ok guys just an update.

Took it apart again, and got some pics of the bore.

There is some very light pitting on the top of the barrel, aswell as residue marks on the bottom. No major scoring.

A good hone should fix that and rings are on order.

Just a quick question aswell, is a 12t clutch going to a 30t rear sprocket with 26cm diameter rear tires too high gearing for 9hp (80kmh at 3600 rpm)?

Also at what rpm can I expect my valves to float, or what rpm should i keep the engine under?

Cheers.
 

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solomon

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Looks really pitted at the bottom to me. A good 8 second hone should be fine, use some WD-40 when you do it. 5500 RPM is about valve float. Im not sure about the gearing all though 30th rear sounds a bit to small.
 
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