Frankenbuggy - Manco Vortex gone stupid

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dcook3333

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Okay, so I started with my other winter project at: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=6609
See that for my other buggy.

Basically, it happened this way... I bought that other buggy and I tell the story over there. Then the kids are too afraid to drive out of my sight. Even though they are permitted.

So, I decide to get a cheap offroad double and then give it a little power because they are all weak. So... I buy this for 500 stock. I'd rather have a different one to start, but someone like tractor supply must have sold a ton of them in the area at some time in the past - so they were all around.

The engine was the 6.5hp Subaru. I take it and put it on the smaller buggy. Then I get a 420cc gx390 clone for this one. I mate it up with a comet 40. What a shoe-horn job. I had to mount the gas tank to the frame - I like this set up. Originally, I just used a straight jackshaft with a 10 tooth to 60 tooth sprockets. And I used the recoil starter. So, we took our buggies to the ATV trails and put them through their paces. I was impressed that they held up tough, but there was a few things I knew that I needed to change about this one...

First, the brakes were too weak for going straight downhill with 2 people (there are big hills in PA). Second, the gear was too low for a fast speed but too high for tight uphills over the rocks. It still did it, but was hard on the belt - we could smell it. Third, ground clearance - got held up on the rocks in a couple places. 4th - no reverse - but everyone has got that problem, right. 5th - steering made me tired.

Later in the summer, I put a rack-n-pinion from BMI (yerf dog) on it. You can see the set-up in the pictures. excuse my lack of engineering, but it works very well. I also put some good shocks (not just springs) on all corners. These changes made a ton of difference. It drove like a car. Then came winter....

And I started projects on both. I did the other buggy first -see that article. Then I turned my sights on this one. I originally was going to do 2 brakes on the axle, but this got dropped later on for good reason (see below). At least I got the one existing brake straightened and working much better with a cable instead of a rod. I mounted a battery for the electric start on the frame. While I was at it, I put some headlights up top. Was going to call it quits, but then I think again about trying to put an ATV tranny in it. And that's when things get stupid...

So, I decide on a transmission from an old polaris. It has low, neutral, reverse, and high. I get it for $120 shipped. I have the input and output shafts turned down to 3/4 with keys on each for another $100. Add $25 for some oil seals and I've suddenly got $250 sunk in it. Start re-engineering the whole mounting from scratch. Weld here - drill there. The whole engine and tranny slides together for chain adjustment. The bar on the back of the swingarm is moved back 4 inches to make room for all this. I wanted high gear to be a little faster than when I started, and I wanted more ground clearance. So I used a 23 tooth drive to a 40 tooth on the axle. 2 inches more ground clearance instantly. My overall high gear goes from 6:1 to 5.72:1. There were skid bars underneath that had to be moved up as well - another inch and a half of ground clearance, yet it's all protected pretty well. The shifter is re-using the original brake rod that came stock with the kart (I replaced it with a parking brake cable from carquest). That with the ATV's original shift lever and some home-built linkages gets the shifting done. It has a shift-lock on it which is a must have for this. Since the whole linkage can move with the swingarm movement, it can't come out of gear! I get the engine started back up at this point, but then I realize that whenever it is running - the torque converter will start spinning whenever the tranny is in neutral or between gears... Not good for shifting. The atv that the tranny came from handled this by having the rear brake right on the transmission. So... that's what I do. I get the assembly for $30 on e-bay, spend a ton of time getting all the rusted parts freed up, and get it on there. So, now there are 2 brakes - each run by a cable - the one on the axle and the one on the tranny. the one on the tranny is much stronger than the other, but I'm keeping them both.

On the first test ride, the chain skipped when the throttle was smashed in high gear. I could tell there was a lot of flex in the axle since the sprocket is fairly far away from the bearing. So then I came up with a setup for the bar and bearings between the drive and axle sprockets. It has a tightener bolt too which is proving to be the best thing I did on this whole project. The downside is I have 10 nuts to loosen before adjusting the chain. Oh, well.

Since then the test rides have been outstanding. I've really tried to be tough on it - although I'm just tooling around my dead-end street. The snow is still too deep to get it out. C'mon Spring time!!! I think it will hold up - I tend to overbuild everything but we'll see. If you like the way this turned out - DON'T DO IT. If you do, either be a whole heck of a lot better at it, or give yourself an entire winter for just the tranny part. I spent so much time on that, I don't even want to think about it...

BTW, I'm thinking my top speed is up around 50mph, now. I need to have the Local Safety Officer follow me to find out for sure. Low gear is about 10:1, so it crawls so nicely. Reverse is nice - there's no limiter - so I can freak out anyone who climbs in the passenger seat. Nothing like doing 25 or 30 in reverse!

I probably got more sunk into this than most other go karts, but a ton less than an atv costs. And it's got the roll cage and seat belts which the LSO approves of. And you can't believe the looks I get when this thing shows up at the ATV trails. It's one of a kind. People smile at it and then it takes off uphill and the looks turn to more one of disbelief. There's only a couple more things that I want to get around to on this - one is bigger tires. I think that I got the gears set up good for going from 18 to 22 inch tires on the back (2 more inches of ground clearance). Kenda makes one which will fit the same rim. The front is taking some more thought. I have 4x4 hubs now, but being careful about the wheel/tire to mate up to them. I'm thinking that an 8 inch wheel with a 19 inch tire is what it's going to end up being. That plus some splash fenders like I put on the other buggy. But... I've spent so much time on this lately that I'm taking a break right now. Maybe in a few months after we've ridden them a few times..
 

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dcook3333

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Thanks. The engine is stock right now 16hp. Parsons racing and others make performance parts for it, but I haven't taken the time to put into it. It will accept the gx390 performance parts. I'd like to put a mikuni carb on it. I have a couple new stock harley davidson mufflers. I'd like to put one of those mufflers on it for fun and performance. Nothing like a shiny piece of chrome.
Honestly, I don't know if I'll take the time or money to do it. Now that it has a high and low gear, I'll just go and grab low gear in the tight spots where I need power.
 

theo

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I have the same engine and trans for my buggy, do you know off hand what the ratio is for the high and low of that trans? I also find that the trans is very stiff to shift without the linkage, did you find the same with yours?
 

dcook3333

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The high gear is 3.3:1 The reverse is slightly lower than that. I think that low is about 5.25:1 but I can't find my sheet right now. Do the same thing I did - mark the input and output shafts with a marker and count the turns in each gear.

The shifting is clunky - that is just the way those old ATV's were. To deal with that - make a plate to extend the shift arm as far as possible. And use as much shift lever travel as possible. You will have to move the shifter a long way, but it will move much easier. Mine is okay, but I wish it had more travel. My limitation is the rod which is connecting the shift lever to the tranny...
 

OFFROADER

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what kind of polaris di that tranny come out of? i have basically the samee setup minus a tranny and i really want a low high gear. i have a old carter th 2906 and shoehorned the same 16 hp honda clone ( literally the same powermax clone version) and a comet 40 series. do a lot of hill climbinng and need some more low end. but like having a higher gear ratio for some all out hauling down trails. i love the setup and will def be doing the same to my kart. just need to know where that tranny came from.
 

NJOHC

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That's awesome! A vid would definitely be cool to see.
 

theo

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what kind of polaris di that tranny come out of? i have basically the samee setup minus a tranny and i really want a low high gear. i have a old carter th 2906 and shoehorned the same 16 hp honda clone ( literally the same powermax clone version) and a comet 40 series. do a lot of hill climbinng and need some more low end. but like having a higher gear ratio for some all out hauling down trails. i love the setup and will def be doing the same to my kart. just need to know where that tranny came from.

Any older 2 wheel drive, some have hi low others just hi. Check ebay.
 

bknights

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so how did you add the yerf dog rack and pinion?

looks like you just have the front right wheel attached to rack and pinion from what i can tell in pic 3
 

dcook3333

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Thanks for all the positive feedback!

The transmission is a 93 polaris 350l 4x4. The only difference between the 2 wheel drive and 4 version of that atv was that the output shaft was much longer on the 4. That's what I wanted as it would give me a lot more room to place the sprockets.

Don't forget to read the part in my text around the "DON'T DO IT" comment. That transmission took several times more effort than I thought it would. I am glad that I had the input and output machined, but I had to split the cases and pull the bearings to prepare it for machining. Then reverse that for re-assembly with new oil seals and form-a-gasket because they discontinued the factory gasket. If you don't machine the input down to 3/4", then you could possibly put the polaris driven on. BUT, then you need the engine to have the Polaris drive. And the Polaris drive fits on a tapered shaft - not compatible with Comet. On the output side, I had it machined down to 3/4 to fit all the standard stuff and bought the sprockets all in the heavy duty #40 - not 40/41. If you don't machine the output, then you're stuck with the stock placement and #520 chain sprockets. Finding axle sprockets to match that is a challenge.

As for the rack-n-pinion - the stock arrangement was the steering shaft levered a tie rod to a block in the middle. The block then moved both the left and right tie rods. I just replaced the stock end of the steering shaft with the rack connection - then connected the steering block to one end of the rack, and beefed up the steering block some. So the steering arrangement is rack-n-pinion connected to center steering block by tie rod - 3 tie rods total in the whole arrangement. The rack is not connected directly to either wheel, though I know pictures are difficult to tell. I had thought about investing some additional time into connecting the rack-n-pinion directly to both wheels' tie rods - but it works so good now, why bother... If you look at the stock Manco vortex, you'll see the 3 tie rod arrangement I speak of. It's not a bad set-up, but it's lacking for such a heavy buggy.

I think the kids made a youtube video of themselves being silly in their room by cellphone. Maybe they can help me make a video of the buggies. I need the weather to break and the snow banks to melt. That may happen this week. Perhaps this weekend, then... It is fun to watch that blue buggy go - it gets going real fast hits top-end and then all the backfiring when you come up off the gas. It's done that since the engine was new. It runs real good, so I haven't fussed with the backfiring at all. In fact, I kind of like it that way.
 

theo

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It would be a little easier to adapt this box if you plan on using a motorcycle engine.

I plan with my set up, to press out the splined piece out of the polaris driven and machine it into a 500 skidoo driven. I have a 94C comet drive which has a 1" bore and also uses the same size belt (width) as the 500 driven. I should work but there is always some unforeseen thing that pops up.
 

dcook3333

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Good luck with the snowmobile driven. I hadn't though of trying to extract the middle out of the polaris driven to adapt to some other driven. I didn't even buy the polaris driven. I'd thought about getting it and trying to adapt the drive to it. But in the end I decided to get the shafts machined to 3/4 keyed and then use all the standard stuff that I already had. That cost 100 for the machining, but then I didn't need a new torque converter or bearings or collars. would have needed new sprockets under any conditions so that was a wash.

Reverse works well. With my current shifter arrangment, Low is all the way forward, High is all the way back. Those are easy to find. Reverse and Neutral are somewhere in between and can take some hunting. I want to run this for a while just to get all the bugs worked out and then try to do a plate or something with the shift points marked. The rub there is that the swingarm can flex which can move your shifter. I'm finding that this movement is very small, though. And that since you need to be sitting still to shift - the shift points will be almost exactly the same every time.
 

theo

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I think that you will like the effort you put into adapting that box for reverse.
 

dcook3333

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The toughest parts of using the ATV tranny is mounting it and adapting it to the torque converter and sprockets. I made the adapting part easier by taking the time and $ to have the shafts machined to 3/4. Just a note on that is that the machinist said that the parts of the shaft which had splines were hardened - that he needed better tools to cut it. Then he wouldn't cut a keyway there but would put keyways further back on the shaft. That suited me okay. Maybe he was a hack, I'm not sure, and someone out there would give a better deal than $100 for that work.
 

dcook3333

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Okay, guys. I didn't get the video I wanted, but I wanted to try this just to see if it works. We don't have any time today. It is so wet that I wouldn't want to tear up the family property anyway - flood warnings everywhere here.
I got a blackberry through work. I can take a video and e-mail it to myself and save it. Then I decided to open a photobucket thing because I can see that at work (youtube is blocked). Let me know if this works... I have the buggies in storage as we're moving in a couple months and we're trying to sell our house. Everything that is not nailed down is in storage to clear up the "clutter". So, I fired up the blue buggy on the trailer just to show the thing run. Put it in neutral so that I could let the engine rev up. Put it in gear or the brake on and that cannot be done... Let me know. It opens in quicktime, it seems...

http://s952.photobucket.com/albums/ae6/dcook3333/?action=view&current=VID00006-20100313-1135.flv
 

dcook3333

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More video. This is me driving and trying to take (awful) video at the same time. My daughter was in the passenger seat and wasn't expecting what happened. I think the screaming adds effect. The jump we hit at the end is just enough to get it about a foot off the ground - no more. That doesn't sound like much, but my son saw me do it... then wanted to try it himself. Well, he didn't hit it straight and we found out that the buggy held up good on a bad landing... No rollover or broken parts (sigh of relief)

http://s952.photobucket.com/albums/ae6/dcook3333/?action=view&current=bluebuggyrevandjump.flv
 
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