Ford Taurus issues.

[B man]

Ok I have been working on my sisters Taurus. Well the issues its having are the car barley wants to run at times and it likes to randomly down shift. And when it is running and driving sometimes it just starts loosing power for some reason.(which it does usually in correlation with the down shifting problem.)

Ok so i checked the fuel filter and it was full of water. so i changed it. afterwards i tried to start it. well it did crank up eventually and it ran good for the first few mins but then it just went to running like crap again. so just the other day my dad took it out for a spin and it died and needed pushed back. When you crank it up it acts like it will run good. but then alittle ways down the road it starts acting up.

I checked the fuel filter again. it looked better but still alittle eh.

The car has a New coil pack. new plugs and wires. and a oil change.

So im wanting to check the fuel rail pressure to check to see if the fuel pump. but i dont have a tester. Any one know how to check with out one?

I plan to drop the tank and get whatevers in there out.

And ideas?

 

[Ghanem]

i think you need to clean the fuel injectors

 

[B man]

i think you need to clean the fuel injectors

Maybe, also what ever it is. it dosent trip any codes on the computer.

 

[B man]

also. when droping the tank. whats the best way to clean/empty?

 

[OzFab]

WARNING: This is an all day job! Not to say it will take you all day but you need to leave the tank to drain/dry. Anyway, here you go. some instructions may vary depending on the age of the car:

Have some replacement fuel on stand-by; you won't be putting the old fuel back in the tank
After releasing the tank, disconnect the sender unit from the tank. There will either be a lock ring or a series of small bolts securing it. Also remove the filler hose.
As flat as possible, move the tank out from under the car & pour the contents into a drum or bucket via the filler neck.
Once it's empty, stand it against a wall in the same orientation you were just holding it (filler neck down) for a few hours. Out in the sun is better because everything will evaporate quicker.
While you're waiting for the tank to dry, it's a good idea to clan out the fuel lines.
Once you're sure it's completely dry, attempt to remove any debris or build-up from inside the tank. Refit tank making sure all hoses, electrical connections & bolts are secure.

If you need any further instructions just let me know

 

[fowler]

There's usually a little panel in the boot or the passenger footwell that allows u to get to the sender unit
Obviouly its under the carpet

It's easiest to get all the crap out by flushing with water
U can dry the tank with compressed air and sun light
If u are going to clean the lines then compressed air and petrol
Obviously blow back down to the tank not up to the engine

Be careful of the sender unit O ring or gasket when u remove it
Personally I'd replace it as it won't be healthly but u can reuse it as long as the O ring has good penetration or the gasket looks good

It wil properly be easier to remove the sender when it is out of the car
Just disconnect the fuel line and harness and it should come out with the tank

 

[OzFab]

It wil properly be easier to remove the sender when it is out of the car
Just disconnect the fuel line and harness and it should come out with the tank

The only reason I suggested removing the sender from the tank first is that newer cars have clips on the fuel lines which are a pita to remove without the correct tool.

If this is not the case then go ahead & remove the lines & plugs first, remembering to mark them prior to removal

 

[anderkart]

Dang you guys are good

I'll just add to siphon the tank before removing if its got more than a couple gallons in it, those suckers are mighty heavy when full.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Oh, yes they are!!!! About 10 years ago, I had to pull the tank outta my Astro van. Murphy's law bit me hard- the fuel pump died about 50 miles after I had completely filled the tank!

God, I miss the good ol' days. Fuel pump quit on my '84 Toyota pickup in about 1995, uphill from the local auto parts store. I coasted into the lot, bought a pump, and had it changed out in that parking lot in about 15 minutes. 2 Bolts, 3 hose clamps. Those were the days...

 

[Bluethunder3320]

Dang you guys are good

I'll just add to siphon the tank before removing if its got more than a couple gallons in it, those suckers are mighty heavy when full.

it was tough to get the tank back under my truck even though it barely had anything in it.

and when you tip it a little all the gas goes to the other side and you really gotta wrestle with it lol

 

[OzFab]

Dang you guys are good

I'll just add to siphon the tank before removing if its got more than a couple gallons in it, those suckers are mighty heavy when full.

Yes, we are

On newer cars, syphoning through the filler neck isn't possible due to the "syphon guard" fitted to the tank. If you can get to the sender from the top, that's the way to do it

 

[B man]

Ok guys. im gonna try all you posted above. but how would i test the fuel pump? and check the injectors?

 

[machinist@large]

Ok guys. im gonna try all you posted above. but how would i test the fuel pump? and check the injectors?

Got a multimeter? For checking the injectors, digital will work but I know a couple of mechanic's that swear by their old analog meters.
As one of them told me, "analog don't lie". Same thing for the pump; measure the resistance. Hopefully, you have a good service manual that lists everything about the model you're working on. Good luck!!

 

[Bluethunder3320]

do they make chilton or haynes manuals for this?

 

[machinist@large]

do they make chilton or haynes manuals for this?

Yes. My Haynes manual for my Escort lists this info as well as the manuals for a couple of trucks I don't own anymore.

 

[fowler]

That's the way to test the resistance

If u can get them out easy enough then u can flow check them and check for clear blockages

The manual may have a litres per minute to check the flow rate of the pump or injectors

Otherwise u will have to get them done by a proper fuel injection place

EDIT
Maybe analog didn't lie
But the analog metres Iv seen are usually 20 yrs old and well out of wack

A good digital meter also won't lie

 

[OzFab]

Ok guys. im gonna try all you posted above. but how would i test the fuel pump? and check the injectors?

The easiest way to check both is to listen. For the injectors:
place the blade of a screwdrive against the injector & your ear against the top of the handle (no, seriously). This will only tell you if the injector is working or not; it won't give you a flow rate or anything. It also won't tell you what it's injecting
For the pump: it should make the same or similar noise as a small electric motor, like the ones you'd find in a small R/C car

 

[fowler]

Ha that's clever
Quick diagnostics

 

[OzFab]

Ha that's clever
Quick diagnostics

Old mechanics trick. When you do it for a living, time is money. You don't want to spend 20 minutes trying to find a multimeter & getting it working coz some idiot left it on & the battery has gone flat

 

[machinist@large]

EDIT
Maybe analog didn't lie
But the analog metres Iv seen are usually 20 yrs old and well out of wack

A good digital meter also won't lie

Calibration is key for both types. Where analog comes in handy is when you are trying to measure a changing value; many digital meters have a very noticeable lag time in their measurement rates. It's also easier (at least for me) to reference an analog needle compared to #'s on a screen; like an analog (old fashioned clock w/ hands) versus the digital display on my phone.

One thing digital has over analog is durability. I've got 2 analog and 3 digital meters; the good analog rarely leaves my work bench. As you noticed, they don't like rough handling.

It's handy to have both, but if I had to recommend a first one, I would say digital. The best bang for the buck I've found so far is the Greenlee brand; I bought both of mine at Lowe's.