First seat I’ve attempted

TrashPanda

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Corners aren’t the best, but I think it’ll do lol
 

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Rat

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Not too terrible. I've reupholstered several seats ranging from 12" round barstool to ATV's and antique bicycle saddles using genuine kid skin or marine grade PLU vinyl.

The trick to nice corners is 3 parts.
1. Do the corners first and in opposing pairs.
2. DO NOT be afraid to stretch your material, it's going to stretch and loosen as it wears so the tighter you can get it to start the better
3. Minimize bunching with a razor; make slits and/or cut out triangular notches and overlap underneath where you're shooting staples and won't see.

With practice using that combination you'll be able to make just about any seat look like a factory wrap.

Just random examples...

With bicycle saddles, I always do the nose first because where it's the narrowest point it causes the most bunching up, but also has the best grip to keep the movement and slip at bay when pulling the material tight to the rear center for a quick tack before doing the rear corners.

A symmetrically round bar stool would be done like Tightening down a cylinder head, but a lot more points (start, cross and pull, staple, cross back and pull, staple, repeat).
After leaving a 2" gap between each stapled point until you've come back to the start, you'd then begin the process of tuck, tighten, staple again following the original cross and back pattern.
 

TrashPanda

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Not too terrible. I've reupholstered several seats ranging from 12" round barstool to ATV's and antique bicycle saddles using genuine kid skin or marine grade PLU vinyl.

The trick to nice corners is 3 parts.
1. Do the corners first and in opposing pairs.
2. DO NOT be afraid to stretch your material, it's going to stretch and loosen as it wears so the tighter you can get it to start the better
3. Minimize bunching with a razor; make slits and/or cut out triangular notches and overlap underneath where you're shooting staples and won't see.

With practice using that combination you'll be able to make just about any seat look like a factory wrap.

Just random examples...

With bicycle saddles, I always do the nose first because where it's the narrowest point it causes the most bunching up, but also has the best grip to keep the movement and slip at bay when pulling the material tight to the rear center for a quick tack before doing the rear corners.

A symmetrically round bar stool would be done like Tightening down a cylinder head, but a lot more points (start, cross and pull, staple, cross back and pull, staple, repeat).
After leaving a 2" gap between each stapled point until you've come back to the start, you'd then begin the process of tuck, tighten, staple again following the original cross and back pattern.
I’ll use these tips on the next one for sure, I also need a better blade, a regular utility knife on 2” foam kinda had some jagged spots lol.
 

Rat

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I’ll use these tips on the next one for sure, I also need a better blade, a regular utility knife on 2” foam kinda had some jagged spots lol.
Working with heavy marine grade PLU jagged corners on the foam doesn't matter much. I've ripped corners off like stale bread to get the roundness in all directions I wanted. What matters most is that the tension put into the surface material whether it's leather, kid skin, PLU, or denim... is even and tight

The grab bar saddle is kid skin

The banana was done from the back of a ruined leather jacket
 

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TrashPanda

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Working with heavy marine grade PLU jagged corners on the foam doesn't matter much. I've ripped corners off like stale bread to get the roundness in all directions I wanted. What matters most is that the tension put into the surface material whether it's leather, kid skin, PLU, or denim... is even and tight

The grab bar saddle is kid skin

The banana was done from the back of a ruined leather jacket
I have another frame I’ll be doing a seat for soon, if I end up getting the hang of it I have a feeling I’ll want to redo the first one haha
 

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Denny

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I think it looks great for a first try! Congratulations. I’m impressed you used t nuts to secure the wood. Electric knives work great to cut foam by the way.
 
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