First Kart, First Rebuild, First everything!

[Matt29]

Hi all!

Just joined up yesterday after purchasing my first kart from an estate sale for $150. The plan is for this to be my son and I's summer project. I know little to nothing about engines, mechanics, etc, but I am a fast learner.

Still dont know what kart frame this is, cant seem to find a manufacturing stamp, and most stickers are worn or gone.

Here is what I do know:
Tecumseh 10 HP engine
Model HM100 159429R (B)
Family YTPXS.3582BA
Displacement is 358.

The Rear tiers are 22x11 and fronts say 145/70-6? (i have no idea)

Gran_Pann said in my welcome thread,

Now that is a real find. It originally had:

Comet 40 series torque converter.
54 tooth axle sprocket
9 tooth jackshaft sprocket
hex or round axle
single or dual 8" disc brakes
22" rear tires
145/7-6 front tires

And I counted the axle gear and it is 54 teeth, and just now noticed he nailed the tier sizes lol. It does have dual disc brakes in the back. Im gonna go out on a limb and say you actually know what kart I have?

So is this a good find? I am mulling about a few ideas in my head what to do with it now with my limited skill set. But first and foremost will be a complete tare down and documentation so I can put it back together lol.

Thoughts and suggestions are very welcome! I have no idea wear to start.

 

[mysteryboy28]

looks like a manco dingo go-kart, minus the rollcage, maybe the 485 model? i had a couple of those. lots of fun, but not very reliable. was constantly doing repairs. but that was before i really knew how to do maintenence, and repair and fabricate parts. good (but expensive) learning experience.

 

[Matt29]

looks like a manco dingo go-kart, minus the rollcage, maybe the 485 model? i had a couple of those. lots of fun, but not very reliable. was constantly doing repairs. but that was before i really knew how to do maintenence, and repair and fabricate parts. good (but expensive) learning experience.

Interesting. What was nor reliable about them? My engine looks different from the ones in those photos, but its definitely the right frame Thanks for solving that mystery!

If I decide to put a rollcage back on, my buddy can weld so I might be able to get him to help.

 

[KartFab]

Model number should be below the steering wheel on the floor pan. I had two of those before, model 8xx
(Maybe model 812?) check americansportworks.com they have manuals.

Mysteryboy is right about it being fun. Go karts in general can have a lot of things go wrong with them, but you have one of the best brands of go karts that was built heavy duty.

Plan on spending some $$ just to do preventive maintenance

Your engine is a weird one. It's got the small block bolt pattern with a bigger bore, I would see if it runs/and check your options before putting down any money.

3-4 axle bearings (depends on your axle)
4 front wheel bearings 5/8 id, 1 3/8 od
Check sprockets for wear
Clean torque converter
Buy a new torque converter belt
Check the cam follower or needle follower? Bearing? It's a bearing on the steering shaft that allows you to turn in a super tight radius, manco got the steering nailed on this kart. They don't sell that bearing, but you can get a replacement for like $10-$20 on amazon or ebay. I think it's 1/4" id, and not sure about o/d.
I saw that your front tires could need work. The rims may be rusted, but you don't need to replace, just need to remove rust and paint. Not sure about tires, if they are in ok shape you can use.
You can rebuild your own seat too.

Roll cages are overrated in my opinion. Also I would jump this kart with my kids and nothing broke on it, so it's pretty heavy duty in my opinion.

 

[mysteryboy28]

Interesting. What was nor reliable about them? My engine looks different from the ones in those photos, but its definitely the right frame Thanks for solving that mystery!

If I decide to put a rollcage back on, my buddy can weld so I might be able to get him to help.

the frames were nice and tough. i broke the jackshaft and jackshaft sprocket (twice), and also burned up a couple of belts because i did not respect how torque converters worked (do not ride up hills at low speed - get a running start first, do not haul or push another kart, and keep weight to a minimum, especially if riding slow - which causes a lot of friction on the belt).

as for the motors - well you can put pretty much any motor on any kart. mine had an 11hp clone (central machinery), and an 11hp honda. one only had a comet 30 torque converter on it, and i buned up belts like crazy. lol.

 

[Matt29]

Model number should be below the steering wheel on the floor pan. I had two of those before, model 8xx
(Maybe model 812?) check americansportworks.com they have manuals.

Mysteryboy is right about it being fun. Go karts in general can have a lot of things go wrong with them, but you have one of the best brands of go karts that was built heavy duty.

Plan on spending some $$ just to do preventive maintenance

Your engine is a weird one. It's got the small block bolt pattern with a bigger bore, I would see if it runs/and check your options before putting down any money.

3-4 axle bearings (depends on your axle)
4 front wheel bearings 5/8 id, 1 3/8 od
Check sprockets for wear
Clean torque converter
Buy a new torque converter belt
Check the cam follower or needle follower? Bearing? It's a bearing on the steering shaft that allows you to turn in a super tight radius, manco got the steering nailed on this kart. They don't sell that bearing, but you can get a replacement for like $10-$20 on amazon or ebay. I think it's 1/4" id, and not sure about o/d.
I saw that your front tires could need work. The rims may be rusted, but you don't need to replace, just need to remove rust and paint. Not sure about tires, if they are in ok shape you can use.
You can rebuild your own seat too.

Roll cages are overrated in my opinion. Also I would jump this kart with my kids and nothing broke on it, so it's pretty heavy duty in my opinion.

Thank you for the tips. Good to know I nabbed a good solid body to start with I will admit that I am a big BIG Star Wars fan and considered stripping this down and building a wood frame around it and make Lukes Landspeeder from A New Hope (I am slightly better with wood working). But the weight, and size its just not there. Most other people that have done those builds use reinforced golf carts. Much easier conversion.

the frames were nice and tough. i broke the jackshaft and jackshaft sprocket (twice), and also burned up a couple of belts because i did not respect how torque converters worked (do not ride up hills at low speed - get a running start first, do not haul or push another kart, and keep weight to a minimum, especially if riding slow - which causes a lot of friction on the belt).

as for the motors - well you can put pretty much any motor on any kart. mine had an 11hp clone (central machinery), and an 11hp honda. one only had a comet 30 torque converter on it, and i buned up belts like crazy. lol.

For now Im hoping this motor will do and I dont have to replace it. Once I tear everything down Im going to try my hardest to learn and understand these little combustion engines. Right now it fires up pretty easy, but once I close the choke it dies. For all I know the gas in it is really old too.

My brother-in-law knows how to weld a little and I showed him a picture of what I "might" want to pull off with this. Main question, considering what you said about excess weight, would this be feasible in my karts current configuration?

I was a big GIJOE fan as kid, and the A.W.E. Striker was one of my favorite toys. The current frame looks like it would be a good base to start this. I just don't know if the weight would be to much. Or if the gear ratio(?) would be sufficient for the additional weight. What would my options be? It may be to ambitious and Ill just fix it as is, but a guy can dream right? Also, the cage would not be a real roll cage, just for looks is my guess.

 

[landuse]

I would give your carb a good clean and you should then be fine

 

[Half-breeder]

Thank you for the tips. Good to know I nabbed a good solid body to start with I will admit that I am a big BIG Star Wars fan and considered stripping this down and building a wood frame around it and make Lukes Landspeeder from A New Hope (I am slightly better with wood working). But the weight, and size its just not there. Most other people that have done those builds use reinforced golf carts. Much easier conversion.



For now Im hoping this motor will do and I dont have to replace it. Once I tear everything down Im going to try my hardest to learn and understand these little combustion engines. Right now it fires up pretty easy, but once I close the choke it dies. For all I know the gas in it is really old too.

My brother-in-law knows how to weld a little and I showed him a picture of what I "might" want to pull off with this. Main question, considering what you said about excess weight, would this be feasible in my karts current configuration?

I was a big GIJOE fan as kid, and the A.W.E. Striker was one of my favorite toys. The current frame looks like it would be a good base to start this. I just don't know if the weight would be to much. Or if the gear ratio(?) would be sufficient for the additional weight. What would my options be? It may be to ambitious and Ill just fix it as is, but a guy can dream right? Also, the cage would not be a real roll cage, just for looks is my guess.

Weight 'is' an issue... but only to those that 'compare'(and alotta times it can be compensated w/ gearing or clutch(Cent clutch vs TC/CVT) or a modded motor.

A year ago, I recived my first kart. An ole 2 seater, Manco Red fox. I was a virgin to everything dealing w/ it(as far as 'go karts' go), so I started off buying new 'cheap' items/mats. I understand/stood the basic principals of physics(CoG, weight distribution, speed vs weight vs momentum... etc), but I knew lil/nothing bout karts, until I decided to 'improve' upon a factory made/designed vehicle.

My kart started off (rolling frame... no motor unit) at about 60lbs. Added the motor, myself and a tank of gas, I was ecstatic... today, the frame alone is about 130lbs and I have a better, modded motor and a TC... is there a difference between the 2...? yes!... but... not a negative difference but a more stable feel. The added weight has made the 'feel' of the ride more... 'nerve friendly'. I also lowered and widened the stance... that helped alot aswell.

So, to answer the 2 questions...

1- Clean the carb, and put in a inline filter between the tank and carb, if you dont already have/see one(preventative precaution).

2-"Current" configuration... maybe... depending on the mats used to form the 'body' panels. But you'll probably have to re-gear... at the very least.

 

[Matt29]

Thank you for your input! Ill keep it in mind down the road We've decided to go a little rat rod on it for now. Want to get this thing on the road and having fun before its 120f outside. When winter comes we will convert it to something different

Here are some more pics from the start of the break down. The previous owner thought of a great way to fix a leak in the tire, caulk!

Can I lightly sand the rust off these disk breaks or should they be replaced?
The picture of the motor, is there something missing where this four bolt pattern is on the crank case?
I noticed it said Comet on the Torque Converter(?). Good brand? See anything wrong?
The picture of the chain and belt seems odd. The gear on the axle and the gear on the other thing (lol) seem a little off center. Is this normal?

Sorry I have so many questions. I really have almost no knowledge of engines and such. I appreciate all the help

 

[fowler]

The brake disc

Don't worry about it

It'll clean it's self as u break
But it looks like the actual contact area is still shiny

The crank case
The 4 bolt holes are around the crank it's self
U can see there's a few bolts holding the backing plate for the tc on

Yes comet is a good brand

No the chain should not be out of line
Re align them by releasing the axle sprocket and sliding it across

 

[Poboy kartman]

What↑ he said.....I don't think anything is missing off the 4 bolt holes. ....I'm not sure what they are there for. .....probably to bolt something on or maybe even mount the motor for a different application.... ( maybe water pump/generator? ....IDK)

Edit: LOL- Caulk?.....I'll have to remember that in case I run low on duct tape. .

 

[landuse]

Why is there a plastic flywheel bolted onto the end of your driver clutch

 

[KartFab]

I think he was referring to the 4 bolt holes on the side of the block that he has in the pic. those four bolt holes are for an electric start motor. You can also see the flywheel/shroud has a little spot for the starter motor as well. They just make the blocks all the same and then add a starter motor on some, others they do not.

Why is there a plastic flywheel bolted onto the end of your driver clutch

There used to be a cover over the torque converter. I have seen this little fan (impeller?) in users manuals in the torque converter section before for other manco karts, but never actually seen one on a torque converter. I don't know what its for though...maybe to direct air flow away from the engine??? cool off the torque converter?? who knows...

 

[Matt29]

Sweet, learning more every day! From doing some googling, I think I have a Comet 40 TC based on the Driver(?) design.

And yes, you are right, it has a cover as you can see in my earlier pictures. That was my best guess with the impeller too. Its a pretty closed cover so probably to try and reduce heat from the friction.

Going to pull it off piece by piece and inspect them tonight or tomorrow.

 

[OzFab]

LOL- Caulk?.....I'll have to remember that in case I run low on duct tape. .

Just a tip: Silastic works a bit better...

Going to pull it off piece by piece and inspect them tonight or tomorrow.

Be sure to take plenty of pics as you do so, just in case you forget how it goes back together

 

[Matt29]

I got the TC off but Im having issues getting the clam shell part apart. I read a few threads on here about the Comet 40 and them being threaded. Penetrating oil, a little heat, nothing has worked. Got a rubber strap wrench but that's not doing the job so going to take it to a lawn mower repair shop and see if they can get it open. I really needs to be cleaned and want to check the weights.

Question. The shaft that comes out of the engine, that held the clam shell part with weights, is Got a decent amount of surface rust. Should I clean this up as well while this is off the engine? And should I tackle the Carb and other engine stuff while the engine is still on the Kart?

Thanks!

 

[Matt29]

I really cant believe Ive taken this part of the TC to 5 shops, 5, and nobody wants to touch it. Two Kart shops and 3 small engine shops. With the gas Ive spent, Im almost ready to drop the $150 and buy a new one... oi vey.

 

[Poboy kartman]

Well you know. ...been said about a million times here.....but......

We might see something you don't. ....we'd at least know exactly what you are dealing with. ....

IDK....I usually dont have a problem taking stuff apart- it's usually getting I baco together. .....

 

[Matt29]

Here is the part of the Comet 40 I cant get apart. I read a thread on here about putting the welded on nut side into a vide and using a chain wrench to turn the opposing side of the pulley coynter clock wise. After much wd40, penetrating oil, heat, gental tapping with a hammer and a rubber strap wrench. No go.

And also added a picture of the rust on the engine shaft. While im here I was gonna remove the chain but cant find a master link... how do I get this sucker off?


Thanks.

 

[itsid]

Lock only the NUT in your vice, and try to turn the opposite sheave.
If you use penetrating oil, apply that to the nut (well you know.. )
and be patient with it, the penetrating oil (even the best ones) need tme to work their way through

'sid