If you still have it, its better than a test light.
Why? because the light works only on power.. the mutlimeter just neds a closed circuit.
(no need for any voltage)
that's why it's more reliable on checking wether a ground connection is working or not.
just touch the 'to be tested' ground against another ground.
If you don't have one anymore, buy one.. a cheap one will do ($10-20),
fuel injection aside you need no fancy stuff, circuit tester, ohm and voltmeter and you're good.
If you buy one: detachable leads if possible, (interchangeable) croc clamps if possible
that way you can elongate the leads in case you need to even if your arms do not reach both ends at once
How to test...
let's say the fusebox-fuel pump here.
add one of the croc clamps to the metal reed (that term is wrong I assume...) where the fuse sits originally, and the other to the +-eylet of the fuel pump.
in circuit-tester mode the multimeter will beep if everything inbetween is electrically connected.
(see why you would want to elongate the testleads here every now and then
)
If you don't have amultimeter but want to test right away.
get a few feet of insulated wire and connect it to the +-eyelet of your fuel pump.
run it inside the car, close to the fuse box.
get a 9V battery and your testlight connect fusebox->battery + -> battery - ->light -> wire.
if it lights up.. all is fine. if not... well, you know
Hm ignition key on #2 while testing and the car battery charged?
'sid
Why? because the light works only on power.. the mutlimeter just neds a closed circuit.
(no need for any voltage)
that's why it's more reliable on checking wether a ground connection is working or not.
just touch the 'to be tested' ground against another ground.
If you don't have one anymore, buy one.. a cheap one will do ($10-20),
fuel injection aside you need no fancy stuff, circuit tester, ohm and voltmeter and you're good.
If you buy one: detachable leads if possible, (interchangeable) croc clamps if possible
that way you can elongate the leads in case you need to even if your arms do not reach both ends at once
How to test...
let's say the fusebox-fuel pump here.
add one of the croc clamps to the metal reed (that term is wrong I assume...) where the fuse sits originally, and the other to the +-eylet of the fuel pump.
in circuit-tester mode the multimeter will beep if everything inbetween is electrically connected.
(see why you would want to elongate the testleads here every now and then
If you don't have amultimeter but want to test right away.
get a few feet of insulated wire and connect it to the +-eyelet of your fuel pump.
run it inside the car, close to the fuse box.
get a 9V battery and your testlight connect fusebox->battery + -> battery - ->light -> wire.
if it lights up.. all is fine. if not... well, you know
Hm ignition key on #2 while testing and the car battery charged?
'sid



:arf:

