ok so all of my parts have arrived and my engine came back but i have run into a problem. my engine wont fit in the space for the engine mount because it rubbing on the rear tire. i dont have much money left so cant i lift the engine so that it will fit somehow?
Engine wont fit
- Thread starter 8urn'7
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fowler
New member
pics are needed
this could be the end of the world or a 10 second fix we cant tell u without pics
this could be the end of the world or a 10 second fix we cant tell u without pics
anderkart
Moderator
Hey 8urn'7, are you talking about the racekart motor mount on your QRC kart?
Cant you just adjust your rear wheel hub out further on the axle to make the tire clear your fuel tank?
Also, you might find that simply re-installing your motor mount backwards will set the engine 1" or 2" further inboard... Then you'd simplly have to re-adjust your axle sprocket hub over to line up again.
A longer chain leinth usualy alows these motor mounts to slide further forward giving more clearance between the r/r tire and engine too.
Cant you just adjust your rear wheel hub out further on the axle to make the tire clear your fuel tank?
Also, you might find that simply re-installing your motor mount backwards will set the engine 1" or 2" further inboard... Then you'd simplly have to re-adjust your axle sprocket hub over to line up again.
A longer chain leinth usualy alows these motor mounts to slide further forward giving more clearance between the r/r tire and engine too.
bighead
New member
Can you move the tank?
anderkart
Moderator
And you also tried adjusting your r/r wheel hub out further too?
(like these guys had to do even with angled mounts:
You could always adjust your seat over further for more engine clearance...
If your engine curently has one of the larger/deeper fuel tanks you might find one thats smaller and swap tanks out.
You could probably mod your old mount and make it a 15 degree, this link has some pics of serveral diferent styles that might give you some mod ideas: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...m=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&biw=1007&bih=649
Most all 5hp briggs I've seen on racekarts did have 15-degree mounts, you'll find some pics here in this link to compair to your kart: http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1T...&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi&biw=1007&bih=649
This 15 degree model is about as cheap as new mounts get: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Brig.../300520609763?pt=Go_Karts&hash=item45f86c97e3
If you end up ordering a new motor mount dont forget to confirm what frame-rail spacing/diamiter its made for, and then mesure your kart to confirm it'll fit. Your 2 frame rails will be spaced out to either american OR international frame rail spacing specs, some motor mount models are made to fit either style, and some only fit one or the other...
If you got a racekart track in your town you should go down in the pits and politely ask every single driver if he's got a used 15 degree briggs mount he'd sell ya cheap, chances are you'd probably end up scoring an older scatched-up one for like 10 or 20 bucks. I'd bet the dude that sold you your kart has one, meybe he'd even swap it out for your flat mount...
(like these guys had to do even with angled mounts:
You could always adjust your seat over further for more engine clearance...
If your engine curently has one of the larger/deeper fuel tanks you might find one thats smaller and swap tanks out.
You could probably mod your old mount and make it a 15 degree, this link has some pics of serveral diferent styles that might give you some mod ideas: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...m=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&biw=1007&bih=649
Most all 5hp briggs I've seen on racekarts did have 15-degree mounts, you'll find some pics here in this link to compair to your kart: http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1T...&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi&biw=1007&bih=649
This 15 degree model is about as cheap as new mounts get: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Brig.../300520609763?pt=Go_Karts&hash=item45f86c97e3
If you end up ordering a new motor mount dont forget to confirm what frame-rail spacing/diamiter its made for, and then mesure your kart to confirm it'll fit. Your 2 frame rails will be spaced out to either american OR international frame rail spacing specs, some motor mount models are made to fit either style, and some only fit one or the other...
If you got a racekart track in your town you should go down in the pits and politely ask every single driver if he's got a used 15 degree briggs mount he'd sell ya cheap, chances are you'd probably end up scoring an older scatched-up one for like 10 or 20 bucks. I'd bet the dude that sold you your kart has one, meybe he'd even swap it out for your flat mount...
anderkart
Moderator
Maybe, how far do you gotta raise the engine to clear the tire?
When you shim the engine up like that your mounting wont be as stable, the engine might be able to twist a bit screwing up your sprocket alignment, and that would cause your chain to keep falling off...
I've had to ask 3 times now and you haven't responded to one of my most important questions yet, so I'll speak up louder this time so you can hear me...
Is your R/R wheel hub adjusted out as far as possible ?
If not, try that first !
It'll only take a couple seconds to re-adjust this.
Its also free and this might be the only thing you'd have to do to make everything fit and work.
Sorry I had to yell but sometimes it helps
Let me know if you dont understand how to adjust your wheel hubs: You'd simply loosen 1 or 2 Allen bolts on the hub that clamps it onto the axle, and then slide the whole hub and rim/tire assembly outward until the tire would clear your gas tank.
When you shim the engine up like that your mounting wont be as stable, the engine might be able to twist a bit screwing up your sprocket alignment, and that would cause your chain to keep falling off...
I've had to ask 3 times now and you haven't responded to one of my most important questions yet, so I'll speak up louder this time so you can hear me...
Is your R/R wheel hub adjusted out as far as possible ?
If not, try that first !
It'll only take a couple seconds to re-adjust this.
Its also free and this might be the only thing you'd have to do to make everything fit and work.
Sorry I had to yell but sometimes it helps
Let me know if you dont understand how to adjust your wheel hubs: You'd simply loosen 1 or 2 Allen bolts on the hub that clamps it onto the axle, and then slide the whole hub and rim/tire assembly outward until the tire would clear your gas tank.
anderkart
Moderator
Ok cool, so back to your Idea of shimming the engine up with flat-washers:
Maybe we can think of something else that would be low-cost, and work better than stacking flat washers.
How high would you have to raise the engine to clear the tire by a full inch?
Be sure to inflate your tire up to its maximum-recommended air pressure before you accurately take your measurement, race slicks will grow taller when maxed out on air pressure.
The tire will also grow a bit taller while driving at higher speeds, plus the axle could become slightly bent and require even more clearance... That's why I want you to end up with your motor mount giving an extra full inch of clearance.
Maybe we can think of something else that would be low-cost, and work better than stacking flat washers.
How high would you have to raise the engine to clear the tire by a full inch?
Be sure to inflate your tire up to its maximum-recommended air pressure before you accurately take your measurement, race slicks will grow taller when maxed out on air pressure.
The tire will also grow a bit taller while driving at higher speeds, plus the axle could become slightly bent and require even more clearance... That's why I want you to end up with your motor mount giving an extra full inch of clearance.
anderkart
Moderator
If you have a lawn mower shop in your town, you could simply get a (good-used) shallower gas tank and a shorter carburetor pickup tube. They might even swap you straight across for your old stuff...
If you've got one of the newer style EPA-approved briggs carbs made for lower smog/emissions now, I'd try to swap gas tanks and carburetors. Those older style briggs carbs like my bottom pic have both high and low speed adjustment screws, and would give you the potential for better performance.
Just look at the huge difference between these 2 fuel tanks:
If you've got one of the newer style EPA-approved briggs carbs made for lower smog/emissions now, I'd try to swap gas tanks and carburetors. Those older style briggs carbs like my bottom pic have both high and low speed adjustment screws, and would give you the potential for better performance.
Just look at the huge difference between these 2 fuel tanks:
anderkart
Moderator
Well, an inch isnt too bad.
You could buy some 5/16" (grade-8 fine-thread bolts, 4 matching nylon lock nuts, 4 lock washers and a stack of high quality 5/16 flat washers in the largest outside diameter available. (ask for 5/16" Fender washers)
Then run your bolts upwards through the mount, install a flatwasher and tighten a nut on each of the 4 bolts going through just the mount. Then stack up as many flat-washers as necessary, install the engine and finish off each bolt with 1 more flat washer, a lock washer and a nylon lock nut.
But before you fully tighten these top nuts,
slip your chain on,
adjust a 1/2 inch of chain slack,
and then elevate the rear wheels and spin the axle so you can watch how your chain/sprocket alignment is effected by slightly twisting the engine back and fourth in its semi-loose mounting bolts.
The purpose of this last step is simply to try and tighten the engine down in the position that its perfectly square to the axle, just so you wont have problems with your chain flying off...
You could buy some 5/16" (grade-8 fine-thread bolts, 4 matching nylon lock nuts, 4 lock washers and a stack of high quality 5/16 flat washers in the largest outside diameter available. (ask for 5/16" Fender washers)
Then run your bolts upwards through the mount, install a flatwasher and tighten a nut on each of the 4 bolts going through just the mount. Then stack up as many flat-washers as necessary, install the engine and finish off each bolt with 1 more flat washer, a lock washer and a nylon lock nut.
But before you fully tighten these top nuts,
slip your chain on,
adjust a 1/2 inch of chain slack,
and then elevate the rear wheels and spin the axle so you can watch how your chain/sprocket alignment is effected by slightly twisting the engine back and fourth in its semi-loose mounting bolts.
The purpose of this last step is simply to try and tighten the engine down in the position that its perfectly square to the axle, just so you wont have problems with your chain flying off...
ok so i did all that but ran into a problem..I DONT HAVE A CHAIN BREAKER so now i have to wait to go to the bike shop to buy one. but everything is pretty good and i have enough space. now my next question is how do i mount my max torque clutch inward?
You don't NEED a chain breaker, they just make stuff way easier. To mount it inboard, you simply slide it on, align the chain properly, and tighten down the set screws. It works the same as if you were to mount it with the sprocket outboard.
Bluethunder3320
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put the clutch on first, then put the chain on.
anderkart
Moderator
Install the clutch all the way on the engine first, so the set screws do touch the shaft,
then re-adjust the rear sprocket hub over on the axle so the chain will line up.
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