El Lobo 6" Mini Motor Bike

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bob58o

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How can we be expected to teach children to learn how to read... if they can't even fit inside the building?

El Lobo Roller 6" w/ Hydraulic Disc Brake
http://www.minichopperssocal.com/MINIBIKE-EL-LOBO.html

* Frame Double Loop 1" .090 mild steel tubing
* Forks 1" .090 tubing for 5/8 axle
* Bearing steering stem"
* Handle bars 7/8"
* New 2 piece fork assembly
* Throttle control with cable
* Front 5/8" axle and spacers
* Rear axle with spacers
* 4.10 x 3.50 x 6" rear tire and wheel
* 4.10 x 3.50 x front tire and wheel
* Ground clearance 6" ,
* Wheel base 40"
* Motor plate to under top bar 15-1/4"
* 40 Tooth sprocket for # 420 chain
* Chain
* Seat
* Foot Pegs
 

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bob58o

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Engine

Hemi Predator 212cc (#60363)

NR 285-0211 Cam
37lb Valve Springs
NR Racing Hemi Head
Milled 0.040"
0.027" Head Gasket
Full Race Port
28.5mm/25mm SS Valves
3 Angle Valve Job
Cr Mo Push Rods 5.44"
OKO 24mm FlatSlide Carb
ARC +0.020" Billet Connecting Rod
Flat Top Piston with Valve Relief
Ambush Billet Hemi Flywheel
ARC Top Plate
3 Stage Exhaust Pipe


http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=35491
 

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bob58o

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What exactly are you selling? Can't see the forest, Forrest.

OH, It's probably good to see the forest when doing 60mph through it. I miss my old mini bike and want another. The goal is to hit 60 on this one. But I mapped out each tree in the forest so I don't hit one at that speed. This thread just brings some scattered stuff together and summarizes up to this point.



---------- Post added at 11:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:33 AM ----------

Is it time? Is this where we will finally see these 2 things create an un-holy union?

You will probably get to see these two things create noise, smoke, scars, legal trouble,...

Since you dropped a perfect segue, the "Union" of the bike and engine will be a 30 series TC with 6" Driven Pulley, commonly known as a TAV-2 less commonly known as an AAAAA, Angular Acceleration Amplitude Amplification Apparatus

The bike will have a 54T sprocket and TC will have a 10T srpocket to start with. The bikes ~12.5"-13" Tires should need 54T:11T and 7200 RPM to reach the goal of 60mph.
Here's an 11T C type TAV Sprocket for 41/420 chain.
http://www.bmikarts.com/TAV-Replacement-Sprocket-C-Type_p_1421.html

I've got these weights and these garter springs for a 4000 RPM Driver Unit engagement.
White Springs 011190
http://www.bmikarts.com/Replacement-Springs-for-20-30-Series-Driver_p_1015.html
Die Cast Aluminum Weight Assembly
http://www.bmikarts.com/Comet-Die-cast-Aluminum-Weights-shoe-driver-assembly_p_3067.html
 

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bob58o

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I've stressed over paint right now.

I really would like to try this House of Kolor Aerosol Paint.
http://www.66autocolor.com/house-of-kolor-spray-paint-s/318.htm
But like $35 per 10oz can, plus the clear coat is like another $19/12oz can. Still would need primer. Like $150-$200 if I do the TC Cover and Blower Housing. Figure 3 cans base, 3 cans clear to be safe, and with some leftover that was mixed in the same batch? In FAQ it says 1 can per 3'x3' area depending on color of paint, color of base, experience,...
http://www.66autocolor.com/House-of-Kolor-Aerosol-Pavo-Purple-p/hok-spm-s2-1037.htm
http://www.66autocolor.com/Spray-Max-2K-Clear-coat-Aerosol-3680061-p/spm-3680061.htm

It is so expensive and time consuming. I'm not good at painting. Gasoline would probably fudge it up.

I'm going to have to look for other options.
Powder coat?
Professional paint shop?
Cheaper rattle can base color?
Cheaper Clear coat?

I feel like I want a show quality paint job right now, but that will probably go away once I scratch it or try to weld something on it. I don't know. I want something that doesn't look like a regular rattle can minibike.

I'm wide open for suggestions. Looking for Dark Blue or Purple I think. Not really into metal flake. But Something High Gloss. Maybe this?http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...EC-_-rv_gm_pip_rr-_-204655506-_-205751552-_-N

But here the red and purple are discontinued and the blue doesn't have a good review on the HD site
http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/specialty-paints/metal-coat/

I might just have to pay the $$$ for the paint I want and take the time to learn how to do it properly. Nothing like that DIY Gratification. Nothing like a week long DIY $200 paint job that looks like garbage either.
 

bob58o

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Got to love Fast and Free Shipping. Ordered a TC on Monday. Got a TC on Wednesday. The Horse's name is Friday.

---------- Post added at 04:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:18 PM ----------

I am the only person who builds this way? Start with an engine, then get the transmission, then lastly, get a vehicle to put them in.
 

bob58o

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OK, lets go cut off the long side cover studs and try to install a TC on this engine. I'll stop at the hardware store and check the bolts they sent. IIRC, the mounting bolts for the side cover and the crankshaft should all be 5/16 - 24. I'll have to check on that before I go and then see what they sent.

The guy at the hardware store just gives me free stuff when I pick nuts and bolts. I picked up (4) SS 1/4-20 Socket Cap Screws. They should of been $2.80 plus tax. He tells me, "Have a Nice Day!" That is twice in a few weeks I've gotten Freebies!

Hats off to the dude at True Value for giving me free stuff!!!
Too bad I think they are too small. I was looking to replace the screws holding the blower housing on, one or maybe two are stripped. I was gong to drill and tap all of them, but I think it was 6mm -1.0. Not sure I can tap for 1/4-20 when there was 6mm-1.0 in there.
 

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bob58o

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Bolts included were 8mm-1.25.
I got grade 8 5/16"-24 to replace them. Last time I had to use washers between the side cover and backplate. Even after cutting off the extra stud length, the Backplate was on the nuts. The washer gave just enough separation to keep this plate off my nuts.
 

bob58o

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Studs (plus part of each nut) cut. Backplate installed, still using a washer-spacer between the side cover and backplate.
 

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bob58o

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I think I settled on Ford Blue for the paint color.

Rustolem 248945 Ford Blue Engine Enamel

ABOUT ENGINE ENAMEL
Brighten and customize your engine with Rust-Oleum® Automotive Engine Enamel. This durable coating creates a smooth, high-gloss finish that withstands intermittent high heat and resists oil, gas, grease, rust, salt, humidity and solvents.
Resists heat up to 500°F
Gas & Oil Resistant
Stops Rust formula
Any-Angle Spray with Comfort Tip
FOR BEST RESULTS
Use with Rust-Oleum Engine Primer Spray.
 

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bob58o

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I know it is engine enamel, but I want something gas resistant for the whole frame. Planning on painting the frame, the blower housing and TC cover this color. The metal parts of the engine will remain unpainted.

Is it a bad idea to use engine enamel paint on the frame (well on a primer)?

I really don't know what I want to do. I would have started a "what color should I paint this?" thread, but I think those are dumb. Sorry.

I did say "settled" on that paint, because I'm not exactly thrilled by it. Maybe I'll pick a paint I like better and use the clear engine enamel for a clear coat.
 

Denny

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Bob,
If you can wait until next spring for paint You could bring it out to Ober and I could shoot it. Just pay for paint and supplies. That would give you time to get it all assembled and ride it some to get the bugs worked out. Need 70 plus degree days. If not let me suggest to you getting it powder coated. Don't put a rattle can paint job on it unless it is Duplicolor at least. House of Color is tough enough to spray out of a gun never mind a spray can. :ack2:


Denny
 

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I know it is engine enamel, but I want something gas resistant for the whole frame. Planning on painting the frame, the blower housing and TC cover this color. The metal parts of the engine will remain unpainted.

Is it a bad idea to use engine enamel paint on the frame (well on a primer)?

I really don't know what I want to do. I would have started a "what color should I paint this?" thread, but I think those are dumb. Sorry.

I did say "settled" on that paint, because I'm not exactly thrilled by it. Maybe I'll pick a paint I like better and use the clear engine enamel for a clear coat.


Just askin' cause sometimes that "engine paint" doesn't harden (cure) too well until it gets good-n-hot a couple of times (more than out in the sunshine hot)

as an idea :idea2:

Talk to a local auto body shop, sometimes you can get great deals on these little custom jobs.

If there is no labor involved & all they have to do is just spray it.

something like,

I got this minibike frame. I would like to get painted a kool blue.

I am not in a big hurry, if your painting anything blue in the next couple of weeks, what would you charge me to just "hang it & shoot it"?


I have gotten a couple of little jobs done like this. Can't be real picky on the color but, sometimes happenstance just works out.


Back in the spring when I made up a batch of presses, I went to a local body shop & explained the situation.

The guy said he was doing a couple of cars over the weekend a silver metallic.

If they were already to go, he would throw a coat of silver on them & even a clear coat for $100.00 cash :cheers2:


They came out real nice & I wasn't even thinkin' silver but, the finished product had a nice medical/industrial appliance look. :2guns:
 

bob58o

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I never even considered that the engine enamel might need high temps for curing.

I was also thinking about a profession paint job too. I just seen a MAACO coupon for 45% off. I think there are always these coupons around - like HF coupons. The powder coat offered by Minichopperssocal.com seems like a good option at the moment.

Maybe I get one of these and learn how to paint?
$16 High Volume Low Pressure 20oz Gravity Feed Air Spray Gun
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/20-fl-oz-hvlp-gravity-feed-air-spray-gun-62300.html

Thanks for all the advice. Still not sure what to do. Still Stressed about it. I think I'm going to think about the TC for a bit.
 

bob58o

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Anybody need stock garter springs and/or stock weight assembly?
 

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bob58o

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In with the new....
146.8 gm Diecast Aluminum Comet# 202931A
(Stock Zinc weights are 320 grams)
White Garter Springs Comet# 011190A

4000 RPM engagement.
 

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