do tyese parts need replaced to fire this motor?

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beansdaddy78

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A tecumseh H30. I took the flywheel off and this and spider webs nests are what i found. I was wondering if they can be clenaed and used or to get new ones. I'm pretty broke so if cleaning is a possibility please let me know

The motor has spark not the hottest but some.
 

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jamyers

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Under that aluminum cover, you'll find a set of breaker points and maybe a condenser (i forget). You'll want to clean everything up, make sure the contacts on the breaker points are nice and clean (prolly need some filing), and then re-adjust the points to spec. Then double-check the airgap between the coil and the flywheel, and you should have a good ignition (assuming your spark plug is good as well).

If you find the breaker points' contacts to be really pitted or corroded, you'll probably want to replace them. If that's the case, replace them with an electronic ignition module and you'll never (well almost) have to mess with your ignition again.
 

beansdaddy78

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great, thanks for the information. im going to try to get it all done up and put together, im hoping to put this one on a old fox minibike i have.
 

Doc Sprocket

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Don't file the points. Burnish them with lint-free paper. Gap them to 0.020". If pitted, replace. Yes, there's a condenser in there.

Regarding the Electronic Ignition conversion- I did this on my H60, years ago, and wish I didn't. While it requires maintenance, the breaker points system produces a hotter, better-timed spark.
 

Russ2251

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Then double-check the airgap between the coil and the flywheel...
Not adjustable on this system.

Regarding the Electronic Ignition conversion- I did this on my H60, years ago, and wish I didn't. While it requires maintenance, the breaker points system produces a hotter, better-timed spark.
I more than strongly agree with TS4WD on this.
I might add that spark produced with points is longer duration.
 

jamyers

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I yield to the voices of direct H30 experience! :cheers2:

(by file, I shoulda clarified that I meant with a points file, which is really fine - but then if you're filing points it's a stopgap and you prolly oughta replace them anyways)

What's with the electronic ignition that it's got a shorter dwell? Just curious, in automotive apps it's the other way around.
 

Doc Sprocket

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Not adjustable on this system.

I guess these are different than the larger Tec L-heads. The air gap on my H60 is adjustable- But an absolute bleeding hemmorhoid to try to do. So dreaded, that when I changed my defective magneto, I actually coaxed it off the laminations and slid the new one on so that I would not disturb the gap setting!
 

Russ2251

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There are 2 types of WICO ignitions, internal and external coils.
The internal coils (laminations) are part of stator (screws or rivets) which is self centering when assembled to engine block/magneto plate.
 

Doc Sprocket

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Very interesting. Wonder how mine fits into this... I have an internal, and according to my service manual, gap must be manually set. This requires one of a couple of special set-ups. One such set up involves using a modified flywheel- literally with a section cut out to allow access for a gauge and wrench. My stator plate looks typical- elongated mounting holes for adjustment.
 

Doc Sprocket

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Curiouser and curiouser....
Unless you have something different from what I have, (or have worked with) elongated mounting holes are for timing.

You are correct about the timing. But I'm quite sure I read in one of my many manuals about the potential for having to adjust the gap, too. Perhaps I'll do some reading after work tomorrow...
 

beansdaddy78

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On I took the thing off to figure out how to get the cover off. I sprayed it all out and now when i look it seems like sometgings missing. Can someone please oook at the pic and tell me if you see something right off the bat that looks like its missing? Please and thsnkyou


And if i am missing something, let me know if someone might have what i need for sale or trade
 

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beansdaddy78

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I'm hoping the pic below is the condensor, its rust color :D I'm not sure if it is but im praying your gonna tell me thats thats it.

Also in the other pic, when putting this electrical thingmajig back on, is there a certain position for it? I see that the mountingholes allow adjustment but want to put it on properlly the first time.
 

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beansdaddy78

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Don't file the points. Burnish them with lint-free paper. Gap them to 0.020". If pitted, replace. Yes, there's a condenser in there.

Regarding the Electronic Ignition conversion- I did this on my H60, years ago, and wish I didn't. While it requires maintenance, the breaker points system produces a hotter, better-timed spark.
I'm not exactly sure what the points are, could you describe them on tis motor cause i would really like to learn how to clean these things properly, I have about 15 different motors and only 6 or 7 are working
 

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Yeah, that's your condenser. Now- see the funny shaped white plastic deal? Points. Examine closely, you will see two little round contacts- points.
 

beansdaddy78

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Yeah, that's your condenser. Now- see the funny shaped white plastic deal? Points. Examine closely, you will see two little round contacts- points.

Ok I tgought they were missing lol, i looked and watched a video o. Youtube and it had a different part all together i guess.

The things that I'm thinking are my points are in the first picture. Is that correct? And if those are the points how do I set them, the part is spring loaded or it puts pressure on it with the metal tab that goes from the points to where the wire on the outside hooks into. I'm sorry if my descriptions suck, but i really appreciate all of your help. I couldn't do this without your help, at least I don't think i could
 

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beansdaddy78

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now when i put it all back together for some reason i have zero compression. is there something i could have done to the motor or does that piece i took off have anything to do with compression???
 

Papa P

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Did you remember to put the key stock back in place when installing the pull starter?

Papa P.
 
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