Dirtbox Venom mini-buggy, 40+ horsepower!

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fowler

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it wouldnt be that hard to shorten the wheelbase

make the steering arms leading ramake it ther than trailing
but u run into the clearence issue

u could move the back axle forward and hang the engine out the back

all small trannys sound horrible when used to slow a vehical thats way too heavy
bike engines tend to sound like they are stripping teeth

im sure u could lift it with ease
longer shocks

if u are custom making each buggy (as u are for now) u should add more optional extras for added cost
at this level it would be easy to do
as in ally panel are an extra $...
extra clearence are ...
ill but a 5hp motor or a supercharged v12 jag motor for this cost

building one buggy at a time u could easierly change to customer requirements
 

newrider3

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i didn't like how the sheet metal warps when you weld it, so i'll be using plastic panels for anyone who orders side/front panels, and sheet metal for the rear panel only (offer some protection from the motor/heat).

If you have $200 or so to splurge you could get a bead roller. Beads and steps in the sheetmetal not only look nice but give the steel tremendous stiffness.
 

mysteryboy28

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adjust the springs on the rear shocks for more tension, and that'll give you a little more lift and improve the ground clearance. it was amazing how the shocks went from super firm to soft once all the weight was added! or get some 18-19" shocks. :)
 

mikeprosauceka

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ya this place called emc its a orv salvage yard has a bunch of shocks there i was thinkin bout gettin some gas charged ones i seen there
 

mikeprosauceka

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Man i got a flat on the passenger side rear i dont see anything in the tire and its still beaded so im gona put some air in it and see if i can hear a leak puts a damper on things owell havin lotsa fun on it so far tho
 

mysteryboy28

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pour some soapy water on the tire to see where the leak is coming from (then rinse it off and mark the spot).

i put a brand new tube in the drivers side rear, it was only like $22 at the bike/ATV shop. Belle Tire had pulled the tire off the rim for me (then refused to install the tube, after telling me they would do it). so i put the tube on myself then put the tire back on myself. it was a bit of a b!tch to do, but WAS doable. call around, you might be able to find a shop that'll do it for like $10, or even free. there's a few youtube videos that'll show you how to do it yourself if you can't find a cheap place to get it done.
 

mikeprosauceka

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Ya i no how but i no its a pain theres a place a couple miles from me thatl do it not sure what theyll charge where did you get the tube and do you know dimensions?
 

mysteryboy28

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check the dipstick in the chaincase after it's been sitting for a bit. i added oil (around 80 weight gear oil) when i splapped it back together, but it was difficult to get an accurate reading at the time. looked full to me! lol.
 

fowler

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Bugger the dip stick

No harm in filling the ****er up
except posibly a tiny Loss in power

If some leaks out due to no oil seal at the top then just let it and that is the new level
That's the technique for getting a little more life out of a stuffed component

80 weight sounds dam thick
Is that OEM specs?

Get a small bar under the input and output shafts and apply pressure to try to move the shafts
Thatll tell u if the bearings are really stuffed

Any time u fit something like this engine to a vehical like this the drive chain will
Make some noise
The buggy is way heavier than the engine was ever designed to pull
 

exenos

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Bugger the dip stick

No harm in filling the ****er up
except posibly a tiny Loss in power

If some leaks out due to no oil seal at the top then just let it and that is the new level
That's the technique for getting a little more life out of a stuffed component

80 weight sounds dam thick
Is that OEM specs?

Get a small bar under the input and output shafts and apply pressure to try to move the shafts
Thatll tell u if the bearings are really stuffed

Any time u fit something like this engine to a vehical like this the drive chain will
Make some noise
The buggy is way heavier than the engine was ever designed to pull

I agree with the 80 weight being thick oil, but not on the weight thing, the engine came out of a heavy touring sled that may end up weighing more than 1000lbs with two riders (600lb sled and 2 200lb riders) I dont think this weighs a huge amount more than half a ton, maybe 1300 with riders at most i would think.
 

mysteryboy28

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70-80 weight gear oil is what goes in the chaincase.

i think the noise is just an amplified winding/whirring noise from the drivetrain that only occurs when letting off the gas abruptly and slowing down with the engine as a brake - a noise that normally would have been muffled by the hood and insulation of a snowmobile engine compartment. now it's wide open and has all that sheet metal to amplify it.
 

mikeprosauceka

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well the chain case has oil and does leak from the top seal nothin bad tho and the the shifter needs to be adjusted it dosent like to go back to forward now the spring dosent pull hard enough so gona try to figure somethhin out for that and the clutch makes a noise slowin dowm i know that but the chain case makes a grinding kindof nooise while going any faster then about 10mph thats what im concerned with
 

mysteryboy28

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sounds like the forward gear isn't fully engaging, so the tension on the cable needs to be ever so SLIGHTLY relaxed so that the spring can pull the lever fully into gear. those sled gearboxes are tempermental!

i would not overfill the chain case. you'll be dripping and oozing all over the place. dipstick at the full level is good.
 
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